looking to do a turbo on a zc
the turbo sold for the 92-95 civic. Greddy's was actually designed around teh zc & then marketed in teh us for the newer sohc vtec civics since we didn't get the zc here.
I went with the 92-95 Greddy kit, then I bought mandrel bends from JEGS (like summit) and made my own piping. I used plumbing connectors on the connections that don't get hot (like the pipes to the intercooler in the front bumper, and used Greddy's connectors everywhere else (under hood).
I moved the battery to the back on my install, and it made fitment a breeze.
I used a Conquest TSi intercooler and had the pipes relocated to the sides. I relocated them myslef with JB Weld, but that leaked like hell (accounting for my poor 1/4 mile times). I then had the pipes welded on instead (had to find aluminum pipe). I've yet to run the car since then.
For the routing, I rotated the compressor housing slightly per someone else on this board's instructions. I rotated it so that the waste gate bolt holes lined up with the next whole in line, then drilled and tapped the housing for the other hole. Can't explain better, but you'll see what I mean. The turbo then faced the front of the car enough for me to route the pipe in front of the manifold between the rad and the downpipe, and right on top of the x-member.
I went from behind the rad, clear out against the framerail, through the space where the horn normally goes, and in to the front bumper area. I put the intercooler there (cut part of the bumper support to make it fit). I went from there, back through where the pass horn goes, against the framerail, and up to the TB.
There is minimal piping this way, the fitment is really good. The lag is minor (with the small turbo and minimal piping).
For fuel, I'm running a walbro 255 and a 12:1 FMU. This keeps me very rich at 9lbs of boost.
When I ran the car, it would spike up to about 9lbs, then slowly leak back down to about 6lbs. It only ran 14.2 at 100mph, but the potential was definately there. This is in a 1991 CIVIC hatch with 2.4 60 ft times, not a CRX. I would guess the car should be good for mid 13s with some traction and the ability to hold boost without leaking like hell.
The total cost was somewhere around $2200, but I think I could have done it much cheaper if money would have been an issue. I went overboard on many things. My batter box is a moroso with a switch (they require it where I race or I wouldn't have done it), so this accounted for wasted money.
I vote going with a greddy kit over the junkyard deal. You end up with a nicer product in the end although people do go really fast on the junk yard kits. Its just nice when you're dealing with all brand new parts, all of the fittings you need, etc etc.
Let me know if you have any serious questions that I might be able to answer.
I moved the battery to the back on my install, and it made fitment a breeze.
I used a Conquest TSi intercooler and had the pipes relocated to the sides. I relocated them myslef with JB Weld, but that leaked like hell (accounting for my poor 1/4 mile times). I then had the pipes welded on instead (had to find aluminum pipe). I've yet to run the car since then.
For the routing, I rotated the compressor housing slightly per someone else on this board's instructions. I rotated it so that the waste gate bolt holes lined up with the next whole in line, then drilled and tapped the housing for the other hole. Can't explain better, but you'll see what I mean. The turbo then faced the front of the car enough for me to route the pipe in front of the manifold between the rad and the downpipe, and right on top of the x-member.
I went from behind the rad, clear out against the framerail, through the space where the horn normally goes, and in to the front bumper area. I put the intercooler there (cut part of the bumper support to make it fit). I went from there, back through where the pass horn goes, against the framerail, and up to the TB.
There is minimal piping this way, the fitment is really good. The lag is minor (with the small turbo and minimal piping).
For fuel, I'm running a walbro 255 and a 12:1 FMU. This keeps me very rich at 9lbs of boost.
When I ran the car, it would spike up to about 9lbs, then slowly leak back down to about 6lbs. It only ran 14.2 at 100mph, but the potential was definately there. This is in a 1991 CIVIC hatch with 2.4 60 ft times, not a CRX. I would guess the car should be good for mid 13s with some traction and the ability to hold boost without leaking like hell.
The total cost was somewhere around $2200, but I think I could have done it much cheaper if money would have been an issue. I went overboard on many things. My batter box is a moroso with a switch (they require it where I race or I wouldn't have done it), so this accounted for wasted money.
I vote going with a greddy kit over the junkyard deal. You end up with a nicer product in the end although people do go really fast on the junk yard kits. Its just nice when you're dealing with all brand new parts, all of the fittings you need, etc etc.
Let me know if you have any serious questions that I might be able to answer.
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DsMWookie
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Feb 1, 2003 11:40 PM




