I remember seeing in a magazine one day a b20 vtec conv. They used the stock vtec supply hole in the head and drilled one in the block to match it. I did a search and the only how to stuff I found was c speed racing's conversion where they ran an oil line off the back of the block. I would much rather opt for the first method over the second. It is how Honda designed it, and I feel better about doing it that way, besides that there are plenty of lines in my engine allready, don't want to add more. Are there any on-line resources that cover this conversion?

Also I planned on using Haltech engine management, so all the knock sensor bullshit is not needed correct?

Also I planned on using the Venom sheet metal instake. All the little stock sensors from the factory intake don't seem to have any mounting locations. Or at least that is the case on all pics I've ever seen. What must be done? What about the IAC I do beleive that is necessary? Since I'm going to be running Haltech are these not necesary? Thanks alot.

 

do the external oil line.

where did you see the internal one?

sounds suspicious to me...

since you are standing it alone, dress the IM to suit...

t..

 

It was in either Super Street or Sport Compact car it was probally over a year ago.

 

I just read some **** about oil squirters being absent in LS/CRV blocks has anyone found away to add these. The Z-10 block girdle is deffinitly on my to buy list. Anyone have a CRV-tec with out the squirters and have had any problems?

 

Those magazines are full of crap.
theres no way to do that.

 

id say that 90-95% of LS/CRVTEC's do not have oil squirters installed.

how much boost are you planning?

why not start with a B18C?

t..

 

I allready have a '91 Teg swap sitting in my garage. It is going to be bored to 84mm, boosted, and have a VTEC head. I know there are several B20 CRVtec's out there. I was just wondering how reliable they are. I am aiming for 500+ HP. I was even thinking of just building the **** out of my LS head, but I figure a B16 head is a better place to start with such a high goal. Besides when B-16 long blocks go for $450 all day long. It is almost dumb not to. To the best of my knowledge the oil squirters are for cooling at high RPM. If I plan on only reving to 8,500rpm would a oil squirterless block fit my billing. The only times it will see high boost and high rpm will be when Race Gas is being pumped through it. That should also aid the cooling, as of course race gas generaly burns cooler. I might even dare to venture 9,000 if you guys feel this reasonable, and reliable. Most of it's street duty will be low boost, 93 octane, not getting on it hard. I have three cars this isn't my dailly driver, but I do plan on driving it more than my NA CRX as a 50/50 race gas/93 octane is required for that car. From April to October I will most likely not be seen in my Cuttlas. So I guess I'm saying it will get a fair amount of street time, but not a "dailly driver". Just wanting to see what you guys think on the idea. Wasn't Jason Hunt running a B20 or was his a punched out B18C?

 

OK so it sounds like you are planing some serious boost.

well, dead straight, you cant do that on stock sleeves, they will break.

get goldern eagle or similar and forged pistons.

good luck.

t..

PS the oil squirters are for cooling hte stock cast pistons at hi rpm, once you go forged, this requirement is reduced...

 

Sorry man, I guess I was vauge on what I planned on doing. The Golden Eagle sleeves were part of this project since it's conception. I was planning on running JE 9.0:1 84.5mm pistons, Eagle rods, and definitly z-10 girdle and ARP head studs, and rod bolts. That should provide a somewhat bombproof bottom end. Those damn squirters still make me nervous though.

 

 

So you are saying don't worry about it, you're a paranoid fucknut, right? Just give it to me straight. I just read a bunch of neg. CRVtec stuff yesterday because, I was sick at home doing a bunch of research on motors. Just tell me they are morons, and Built CRVtec Turbos are one bad motha f%#$ing setup. Even if they don't have oil squirters.

 

You can also send the pistons to a place like Swain Technologies and have one of their friction reducing or high temp coating placed on them

www.swaintech.com

 

"tap it from the back"

 

the oil squirters wont stop you cracking a B20 sleeve... (your MAJOR concern)

in fact i am not sure what the oil squirters will do except transfer the combustion heat to the oil...
--
if you want it straight,

i reckon you are worrying with the details and missing the point.

a B20 is not as strong as a B18, if you wanna see past 250HP tehn you may as well start with a bored and sleeved B18C...

that is my opinion. that is all...

it is your choice. dont let the internet decide your life.

t..

 

Only way to do it son.

 

lol quote of the day

 

Ok, I won't get hung up on the details then. I will build the crap out of it, GE sleaves, JE pistons, Eagle rods, Z10 block girdle, all ARP hardware. I was really planning on doing that anyway I just wanted some positive reinforcement for my actions. I know there are a good amount of B20VTEC Turbos out there, just wondered how reliable they were. Oh yeah WTF does "tap it from the back" have to do with any goddamn thing?

 

lol theres no "internal oil line" so you "tap" the oil from the back of the block like you asked, lol...plus i thought it would sound funny

 

Oh I get it now tap it from the back. Just like I would love "tap" Sarah Michelle Gellar, from the back. The oil line needs to be tapped from the back too. I though your just being a smart *** punk. Gotcha now thanks for clarifing. I got so caught up about the damn squirters I forgot about what I even started talking about.

 

ahh buffy, lol....yeah u really dont need squirters either if u have aftermarket pistons..