A friend of mine told me about a guy that he knows that bought a VTEC Prelude. he took my friend for a ride in it and the rev limiter kicked in at 6500 like a non-VTEC motor. My friend also has a prelude but it is the non VTEC model. They popped his hood and looked at his motor and my friend sayed that it looked just like his. He thinks that some might have switched out the head on the motor and sold it as a VTEC. Could this be true or is there a reason why it wont rev like a car equipped with VTEC??????
I think that if it is actually VTEC equiped someone might have traded the chip out or the head. I told him to look for that box behind the distributer but he sayed he didnt notice.

 

How about checking the block stamp first... Does it say H23 or H22?

 

My friend said that it had H22A on it.

 

that's the code for a VTEC H22, your friend has a H23 I bet (non-VTEC DOHC). They'll look similiar. Tell your friend to see if there's a selnoid right beside the distributor with 1 green wire going into it (atleast I think it's green). If so, then make sure the next time he runs it he A> let's it warm up to operating temp and B> check to make sure it has enough oil in it. Then take it out and it should work fine

 

If it says H22 on the block, and doesn't say VTEC on the valve cover, then he's screwed...

 

Valve covers are not interchangeable..

 

Well I dont know how what you are saying will make the rev limiter go higher, I had a GSR and it didnt matter if it was 20degrees outside it would work.
but I will have him look for that green wire.

 

the h22 head also says DOHC VTEC on it. if it doesnt say it, then its not vtec. vtec is kinda tricky though... if your motor is equiped with vtec but you have a non vtec computer, you wont hit vtec. if your computer is vtec equiped but your motor isnt... when vtec kicks in you will actually hit your rev limit. so if the motor was swapped out for non vtec then make sure you get the matching ecu too.

 

"safe mode" for an h22a gives it a 6500rpm redline, just something to look into if it is in fact a vtec motor

 

If you own a Honda, I don't know how the hell you can't distinguish between an H23 and an H22!!!!! Come on people! Look at the damn block number and VALVECOVER! It says so right on the cover! YOU CAN NOT MISS IT!!!!!!!!

Anyways, the engine needs to warm up prior to VTEC engaging. It doesn't matter how cold it is outside. Also, VTEC is run on OIL PRESSURE, so if you're low on oil, obviously it won't activate.

I thought this was common sense?!

*I can't believe this is the second thread where the person doesn't know if he has an H22 or not*


[Modified by 98CTRCoupe, 10:19 AM 2/13/2003]

 

i have an h22a, that works, and my advice is if you lose to a civic( thats not obviously BUILT) then you just got screwed!

 

sounds like the ecu is limp mode.

vtec engagement isn't occurring most likely.

he should be getting some codes, unless the previous owner yanked out the cel light behind the cluster.

 

open the hood and look RIGHT ON THE TOP OF THE ENGINE. if it dont say VTEC, then its not. if it does, then listen to everyone else. also, make sure the car is warmed up fully.

 

okay, he said his friend REVVED it, if you rev it, it will automatically stop it from going any higher, you have to be in gear to ammke it go any higher. IMO, you shouldnt rev any engine period. your'e not suppose to rev an engine to see if its vtec, ITS ON THE VALVE COVER. tell you friend just to pop the hood and see if it says vtec on the valve cover, and to DRIVE it and see if he feels/hears vtec "kicking in" if he doesn and he's still not sure, then get someone to identify his ECU. and look for the solenoid.


[Modified by sslude, 3:36 PM 2/13/2003]

 

so he bought this thing with out looking under the hood or what? some one says this is a vtec and he buys it i dont understand

 

Um....You said that " The valve cover doesn't say vtec", Right? THE HEAD IS NOT A VTEC HEAD!!!!!!!!!! The head on the H22 and H23 are interchangable. The guy probably sold the head from the car your friend bought and put the buyers head on his. OR he bought it this way and didn't know. Either way, its not VTEC equipped any longer, Sorry buddy, YOU GOT RIPPED OFF.

 

actualy the wire leading from the VTEC solenoid is green/yellow and connected to terminal "a4" near the end of the connector at the CPU. plus itll say H22A1 on the block on the left sid eof the header IF it's VTEC. if not itll be H23A1.

 

It's possible the person who SOLD the car was an idiot and sold an h23 thinking it was a vtec h22. In any case, I don't know what you can do without a bill of sale saying h22 vtec on it.

 

Does the engine look linke this?

 

*sigh*

Engine stamp, left of the exhaust manifold. H22A. Either H22A1 or H22A4.

Redline for the H22A1/4 is roughly 6500-6800 in if VTEC does not kick in.

VTEC will not kick in if the car isn't warmed up
VTEC will not kick in if the car is in neutral
VTEC will not kick in the oil is low
VTEC will not kick in if the car is in "limp" mode, (for example, has an engine code stored in there, whether it's showing or not sometimes)
VTEC will not kick in for any number of reasons not listed above. I've had VTEC not engage because of all of the above reasons and these following:
My VTEC sol. wire came unplugged
The mechanic messed up an o-ring putting the head back on and the oil pressure was low.
Spun a rod bearing
My first set of ground cams were screwed up
I was getting road head and let the RPM's drop below 5 grand.
My screen on the VTEC sol. became clogged.

So chill....

 

there is a h22 non vtec

i came accross it while looking for a ecu
i think alot of them were 92-95 and auto's

correct me if i am wrong. but the item i saw said h22 and it wasnt vtec.. i think i saw it on carparts.com too
not 100 sure

 

Elec Cont Unit (ECU), 2.2L (4 cyl), w/o VTEC; MT
Elec Cont Unit (ECU), 2.2L (4 cyl), w/VTEC


see LOL car-parts.com

 

Road head rocks nads. Getting road head and falling out of VtEcH Yo! definitely doesn't rock nads.