Hey guys. I value your opinion and experience alot. So I was wondering what you think.

I ran last season (autocross) with my 2000 Civic Si: 15x7" Kosei K1s, 205/50x15" Azenis (39f, 32r), Koni Yellows (single adjustable - 1 turn front, full stiff rear), Ground Controls 350f/400r, stock front and rear Si sway bars, stock front strut bar, and Neuspeed Rear Upper and lower strut bars. Camber was 1.5 negative front, and 2.2 rear, toe was 0 front and rear. My polyurethane bushings came in and I will be ordering a front camber kit (Skunk2 or Progress Group), adding one washer to the rear to dial out some camber.

My question I have been dealing with is if I should go with 400f/350r (just swapping the springs around) and going with a Comptech Rear Strut/Sway bar unit and set the bar to full stiff for autocrosses and full soft for everyday driving. With my other setup I was getting alot of rear inside tire lift and lots of nose diving, to the point my car scraped the front bumper even with a 2" drop. And it's killing my back

As some of you know I did fairly well last year placing 1st in my region, and 1st's and 2nds in other regions. This year I plan on doing some National Tours and hopefully Topeka in September.

So what do you guys recommend? I know the Comptech bar will induce some oversteer, but with my current setup (350f/400r) that might be overkill.

Thanks!
Mike


[Modified by CivicSiRacer, 12:48 AM 2/12/2003]


[Modified by CivicSiRacer, 1:21 AM 2/12/2003]

 

I have one of the Comptech swaybar/tiebar combo's and my advice is to buy something else. Buy an ITR 22mm bar or buy something like a Saner bar. Either way you'll be left with at least $150 in your pocket.

The comptech bar is nice and all, but overpriced... and their customer service is horrible -- at least it was for me when I called to order replacement hardware.

Um, wait a minute... Comptech is great. I'd hate to part with mine, but since you asked so nicely I'll sell it to you.

 

I'm using 350/400 on my si as well with the comptech bar on full stiff and my kyb agx on 2/8(they are adjustable up to 4/8) and falken azenis at 40/37. I am probably only dropped about 1.5" so far and haven't experienced too much nose dive if any. Camber is 1.3 all around now uncorrected in front and washers for rear. Toe is at 0F/-.02" rear.

It does oversteer whenever i need it and don't think its too much at all for auto-x, i would even want stiffer rear rates if it was just an auto-x car. You could always get the comptech bar and try it out with the rates you have and just swap them if you think its too much.

 

I think the comptech bar is great and i would not trade it for an ITR bar even if it did mean extra money in my pocket. I've seen too many subframes ripped and i like having the security of the huge reinforcement of the comptech kit.

 

The beauty of the Saner bar is that it's custom. You can order whatever size you want. I suggest 20 to 22mm for your application. My 24mm was quite beefy and would probably tear out with the lower spring rates. Many knowlegeable people will tell you that most (if not all) subframe tearouts are due to too much bar and not enough spring. Failure to lubricate the bushings and improper install (binding) also contribute. The right bar, properly installed, with matching springs, isn't going to tear out.

Also try raising the car about .5 inches. The reason your back hurts is all that bump stop banging and bottoming out you're doing.
Get your camber reversed from current. -2 front and -1.5 rear.

Your current shock settings and tire pressures look pretty good.

After you do all this, then swap the springs if you feel you still need to.

 

Also consider running some toe out, especially up front -- some where between 1/16" to 1/8" total toe out is a good place to start. It makes a subtle difference for me on steering response and turn-in characteristics.

The guy at my favorite tire/alignment shop painted two different markings (one for 0 toe, one for 1/16" toe out ) on the driver's side tie rod so I can set the toe to 0 when I'm not racing and decrease tire wear. You just gotta remember which way to spin the tie rod to get the proper toe setting....

 

Hey Mike, how tough is it for you to swap your springs? That should be something you could do with just a jack and jackstands, right? Or you don't have space/tools to do it? I'd say if you could do the work yourself in a reasonable amount of time, definitely try it each way. If the bar gives you enough rear roll stiffness, the lower spring stiffness out back may ease your ride, while the stiffer roll stiffness up front gives you quicker transitions for slaloms, etc. If, on the other hand, the stiff springs up front give you too much plow, you can switch it back easily.

I think the only real decision is which bar you want.

 

Yeah with camber kit I was going to do just that. -2 up front and -1.5 rear.

I was also thinking about raising it up about .25". Actually now that I think of it, the car is 2" front, 1.75" rear.

 

For me pretty tough. Since I do not have alot of rooms and the correct tools to do it. Guy down the street has a lift so I would be able to use that.

But since my GC are the same length and diameter they can be moved front to back and back to front.

 

itr rear bar and 500/400 for springs.

nate

edit: fyi, when i went from 400/300 to 600/500, the car actually rode better because i wasn't smacking the bump stops all the time. try the 500's up front at the same ride height your at right now, you might experience the same thing.


[Modified by solo-x, 9:52 PM 2/12/2003]