I am looking for feedback on brake set-ups. What is the best as far as rotors, pads, lines and fluid? As far as rotors, which is the better choice? OEM v. slotted v. x-drilled. How abaout pads, metallic v. semi-metallic v. ceramic? Any particular lines that are better than others? How about fluid, ATE or Motul or other? All input is welcome whether your application is for auto-x, street/strip, everyday driving, road racing, or all out drag racing. I want to know what you think of the parts that you got. How long did they last? Did they make any noise? Did lines leak? Did the fluid boil? etc. etc. etc. Thanks in advance for the input.

 

There isn't a "best" for everyone. It's all about compromises.

OEM or blank rotors are probably the best way to go. Motul 600 fluid is agreeably the best. Pads are a tossup. Among the better brands are Carbotech, Hawk, AEM (Nissin), Porterfield and others in no particular order.

Stainless/braided lines are good if yours are getting old. They'll stiffen up the pedal feel from barely noticable to dramatic.

Your applications are very widespread. What exactly will you be doing with your brakes? For autocross and street, all you need is descent all-purpose performance. Typically, the brakes won't get that hot in those conditions. For road racing, you need something heavy duty that'll handle those extremes. For drag racing, some people downgrade the brake system to save weight. Heck, you only need to stop once every few minutes. Stock is better than good for most drag racing. A parachute can pick up the slack

I personally use stock rotors ad lines with Hawk HPS pads and Motul 600 fluid. That's for street use, autocross, and an upcoming racing school so I'll see how well they handle some road race conditions.

 

if you are asking this question, you have not gone thorugh enough pads and or rotors to know which is fine. you have an RS, I would advise you to research the honda part numbers to see if your proportioning valve and booster is the same as GSR/ITR because I would start there. Your front calipers are same as GSR which is a good start. going with bigger calipers and rotors is nice for looks, however will you have the pressure to operate them efficiently? these are the questions you need to ask. I believe you havs drums in the rear, I could be wrong. If you have rotors you have the same setup as a GSR brakes wise, possibly. I would recommend you trust the manufacturer in that they researched this waaaay more than you or me. In doing so, replace your rotors with stock or better or same Q like a brembo blank.

One of the things you need to also consider is the frequency in which you will be changing them. Any aftermarket brakes will be wearing quicker than stock especially if you drive like a moron like me. As your tires wear, you will have to BRAKE HARDER to compensate for this. So, consider STOPPING the car as the goal. Put on a good 205/50/15 tire like the Falken Azenis or Bridgestone RE730s which will offer superior braking stability. The Falkens are $68ea and the BS's are $98 ea, you decide which is better. I reccomend stock blank disks with Axxis Ultimates for Pads. They ROCK for street driving and AutoX and some road course also. Some guys go more agressive on the Road course however. Also, if you do not upgrade your shocks and springs, you will lose traction under braking... hence not decellerating. SO, stopping the car is much more than braking... it is the whole car. Since you are slightly lighter than a GSR you may have a bit of an advantage initially. I say:

Buy a set of Axxis Ultimates Pads with Stock or Brembo BLANKS no ***** or holes they only make your pads wear quicker.
The Pads are about $75 for the front pair and about $45 for the rear pair, use STOCK fluid and be sure the system is properly primed. This will insure LONG LIFE OF YOUR BOOSTER SEALS. Front Rotors run about $100 a pair for Stock and about $80 for the brembos.

The Axxis pads on stock or brembo blanks will last bedded in properly will last about 25,000 miles if beat up and driven into the ground on wearing tires. If
you start with new tires and brakes together and drive like a sane individual with the occasional psychoticness on the street or AutoX... expect about 10K more.
I would use the rotors twice, cut only once then replace. Auto Zone does this for $6 a rotor... nice huh? They also have rotors and they are CHEAP... they will work
well for one cycle.. then you will need to replace them. So is it better to cut or replace, that is up to you...

All this doing, you will see a NOTED improvement in your stopping. I am about to do a set of Azenis, new rotors and pads all around in about a month so, I am about to experience a total braking refresh... its to the point where even with my damn worn re730s and pads with about 30% left on them... I can hit the brake at 120 and be doing 60 in 5th in about 3 seconds...

 

I can attest to this moronic driving! lol j/k with ya mike

we should adjust my valves this weekend. give me a call

but on a more serious note---> Mike is right on the money about getting the Axxis Ultimates and some AutoZone rotors. I would flush the fluid and use ATE over the OEM fluid but that is up to you. Don't use Motul for the street. Too expensive and you have to flush/bleed it more than you will need it.

 

I just recently put on some colbalt friction 'premium' OE rotors, axxis ultimates, Ate superblue, and azenis'. They held up extremely well at willow springs the past weekend, no fade problems for turns 1 and 3, (although willow isnt heavy on braking anyways) I'd have to say this setup was more than enough especially if you don't hit the track very often.