i've already done a search and read pretty much every thread involving the Skunk2 pieces -- i came across pretty mixed reviews, to say the least.
i've already ordered the arms to be used in conjunction with my current spoon spring/stock shock setup. i came across a number of instances in which the arms slipped -- this does not seem to be that big of a deal to me, and i'm sure that i can correct it with minimal effort. however, i also came across problems involving both the balljoints as well as problems with the A-arm contacting the fenderwell. can anyone shed some light on either of these problem
also, will i have to modify the arm in any way in order to make it work well, and if so, how would i go about doing this? thanks for all your input.
-tony

 

Sounds like you need to search some more...

This post:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=254724
lists the hardware you might want to use to help prevent slipping. Mine slipped once, I tightened it down and it hasn't moved since. I bought replacement hardware but haven't put it in yet. I ran on street tires all year so the stress isn't nearly as high as with the racers.

I haven't tried replacing the ball-joints yet, but some people have had a hard time finding replacements.

Even with it's few shortcomings, it's still the best option IMO.

 

Not for long........

 

what exactly is the problem with the ball joints? from the posts that i read, it looks like the boot is prone to tearing. what would cause this and is there any way to fix it?
also, can anybody offer some more information regarding the UCA contacting the shock tower?
sorry for the possibly redundant questions, i just really want to get the facts straight before i regret my most recent purchase. thanks again, everybody.

-tony

 

I haven't had issues with either. Maybe someone else will know.

 

after reading through 9 pages of search results, i figured out that apparently skunk2 revised the design for the UCA arm. possibly the new designed fixed these problems?

-tony

 

On my set, the length of the arm from the pivot point to the outboard end of the adjustment box is longer than the OEM arm. This, combined with swapping the arms left & right, means that it isn't lined up with the 'space' designed into the tower area for upper a-arm clearance. A solution would be to design a shorter adjustment box. You might be able to cut it out & reweld it in a more inboard position. I haven't actually checked out the clearance with the shock/spring unit.

added in edit: If it were legal, it would be easier to redo the OEM tower area to give you the space where you need it. I would guesstimate that to be about 1" more outboard & 1" towards the rear of the OEM 'peak'.


[Modified by civicrr, 9:45 PM 2/9/2003]

 

thanks for the info!
so that takes care of the slipping problem, and the possibly contact between the UCA and the inner shock tower.
now if somebody could just help me figure out what's going on with the balljoints, i'll be all set. thanks for tolerating my stupid questions, guys -- i really appreciate all of the help.
-tony

 

There are teams out there that "modify" that area with a BFH. Like Scott, I took one whack, and decided I didn't hate my car THAT much.

Warren

 

my car is street-driven. i think i'd like to save the hammers for the racecars.
if i don't swap the arms side to side, do you think i'll have clearance issues? it seems that skunk2 would (or should) have taken that into consideration when designing the part...
-tony

 

I'm not familiar enough w/ the Spoon springs you're using. Since I've moved to 800 lb/in springs up front, and fixed my ride height, I haven't had a problem with bottoming out

After driving around on them for a bit, check to see if it's hitting the fenderwell. You'll see the markings if it is, or it will scar the wheel well liner if you've still got those.

Warren

 

Like Warren, once it hit a couple of times, the dents created gave me the room I needed. I was also too low. Not a problem for me anymore. As far as the Skunks being too long, they are made so that you could add positive camber for the street guys correcting lowering.

 

if the arms are used only to negate the effects of lowering, are there still clearance issues?

-tony

 

Depends on how low the car sits, the spring rates, and how hard you corner, amung other things. Hard to say. They are longer than the stock arms, so that's part of the problem.

Probably won't know til you try them.

Warren

 

what is coming out in the near future?