including the cost of a motor what is the best honda motor to buildup to 200 whp

a built b18c1 or an H22 or maybe an jdm h23...dont worry about the chasis this is a motor only ?

 

H22A gets my vote.

 

stock it wont make 200 whp

cost of motor is 2300CDN how much more in mods will it need?

 

cams, cam gears, intake, header, exhaust, maybe a port & polish, basically anything you can do N/A you are probably going to have to do.

 

b18c1 I H E and a 75 wet shot

 

NA

N20 is not NA and a C5 alone is worth mopre than an h22 with bolt ons. so therefore that is not the best option


[Modified by 2lo4FATHOES, 9:59 AM 2/7/2003]

 

up compression and use alcohol, and big cams, really, really, really big cams, the big cost is the fuel management, you get a fully built motor and it costs 2k-3k then you need to have fuel management there and thats just damn expensive

 

That is an oxymoron......
There is no cheap way to make that power NA.
Cams,
valvsprings
retainers,
Chipped ECU/PMS
pistons
header
exhaust
camgears
and most importantly tuning

optionally
port and polish

Things to make the car more fun
Lightened flywheel
stage 1-3 clutch
ITR tranny
Suspension

So as you can see, it ain't cheap

 

b20/vtec, w/skunk 2 stage 3 cams and valvetrain, and hondata

 

i said cheapest,,i know its not cheap for NA honda power.. but there has to be a best solution

 

I think he was asking which motor would be the cheapest to get 200whp out of.

 

a type r swap goes for about 5 gs and a decent n20 kit for about 500 so for about 5500 bucks he can get 200 whp , and a direct bolt in swap , with little or NO tuning, and about N20 not being N/A thats a matter of opinion , ...no turbo or supercharger ='s N/A to me , and believe me an H22 swapp will probably end up costing more and definitly much more difficult

 

He also said regardless of chasis. To me that means the H22A will win.

 

best way is the H22A, more displacement means getting more power becomes easier.

 

B16 with the NOS will get you at 200 with just a few bolt ons...

 

jessus christ

1black hatch is the only one that can read or what. i know my writing isnt the best (i am french) but quit saying N20 and type r swaps..

 

Hehe.. N20 is NA though, it's not FI, it's just a different fule mixture is all

 

What type of fuel are you going to be running and is this a race only car or a street car? Most H22s dyno at 165 whp stock. Corey hit 185 whp with a cai and an SMSP header(ran open header). His car has to be a factory freak or maybe the dyno wasn't SAE corrected, but you get the idea. Skunk2 stage two cams and an intake manifold should get you close. Throw in a VAFC or an S100 and I would think that you could get close. There is always the option of swapping in Type S pistons in to get an 11.5:1 cr, which will net you some more hp from the cams. Personally, I'd go with a nice intake, SMSP header, N1 or custom exhaust(If you have to run one), port and polish, build the head, stage 2 cams, S100 or VAFC, IM, and Type S pistons if you need the extra 10 hp to get over the 200 mark.

 

Thank you thats exactly what i was looking for..i can get a jdm h23 for 2500 USD just not sure about the aftermarket support..the h22 is the obvious choice so if i can find something a little different in the same price rangs ill suggest that to my friend...they sell 96 octane up here so something streetable on 96 is what i need.

What about an F20b (accord euro r ?) they go for about the same as a JDM h23?

 

N20 is the same as FI, it is more oxygen coming into engine, thus needing more fuel to maintain the proper A/F ratios. It is chemical FI.

 

I'd go with anything VTEC for an NA street car.
The F20B is the Accord SiR motor. 200hp/145trq. 11:1 cr. I'd take that over an H23, but honestly I don't know much about modifying the F20B.

 

CRVTEC bored to 2.2 12:1 cr Hondasaver VTEC cams skunk2 camgears springs retainers, ferra valves/seats heavy p&p smsp header AEM CAI. skunk2 IM and some tunning! that would get you pretty dang close. I knew a guy who had a built CRVETC 10:1 cr not sure what the rest of his setup was 187hp to the fw and like 176 ft lb of trq. Thats w/ normal cams and head.

Good Luck.

Blaze

 

i would say get an ls bottom end, CTR pistons, gsr rods, and balance the bottom end.

for the head, port work is a must! skunk2 jun imitation's (stage 2?) valvesprings, stock retainers, cam gears. skunk2 intake manifold, dc 4-1 type R knockoff header with 2.5" collector, test pipe, and exhaust.

as for a gearbox, only the civic SI or ITR should be used. anything else will not have the ideal (closest) gear ratios, which will be essential to keep the motor up in the revs while shifting.

if this is going into a 92 up civic, get stronger motor mounts, such as the ITR mounts.
if this is going into an 88-91, i would suggest hasport or place racing mounts over hcp's, i think mine feel loose compared to other companies.

i would like to know why you have the magic number of 200 horsepower in your head. is this to prove a point, or do you feel less than 200 is not enough??

 

my muscle car redneck friend decided to try his hand building a honda..he is very skilled with v8's and does lots of work on stock car motors. He knows im into hondas and have a decent knowledge so he has asked me to figure out a good setup for him. I buy accidented cars at auctions so the chasis is not important. He just wants 200WHP that he can drive to work every day. I asked about the f20b becaus he likes 94-97 accords accords...any H would end up in a 4 door 3rd gen integra or accord..i doubt he wuld want a civic or crx.. He wanted me to get him a 98 grand am so i convinced him to build himself a honda daily driver....he has no idea what 200whp in a honda is like