did a search but couldnt find much info...

what kind of ecu does it need?
do u need shift linkage? axles? or motor mounts?

and what should i change when swapping the motor? alternator? water pump? head gasket? o2 sensor? fuel pump? clutch? distributor?

what kind of tools are need? jack, jack stands, engine hoist, ratchets, scokets, wrenches, screwdrivers, hammer, pliers, anyother tools needed??

how much do they go for?
is $350 for a dohc zc with tranny a good deal?

this will be my first time swapping a motor?

will there be any wiring to do with the dohc zc swap?

any sites that has info on this swap?

 

PM6 CRX SI or PG7 88-89 Integra

With CRX tranny no axels on shift linkage needed
With ZC tranny 90-93 Integra axels

Changing things is up to you. Give a a good visual inspection and make a decision from there. I would suggest a clutch because you dont know how bad it may be worn.

$350 is real cheap, probably something wrong with it, unless your getting it from a friend or someone you know. Expect to spend around $600-$700 for a decent ZC with tranny

You will have to take two wires off the distributer harness and move them to the exhaust cam (position sensor), unless you need to do the MPFI swap




[Modified by ZC_CRX, 7:16 PM 2/6/2003]

 

$350 is only engine and tranny
no ecu

 

and it is from passwordjdm, so i doubt anything is wrong with it, since they have a good reputation

 

This site has everything u need to know

http://dmoore.com/crx/zc.htm

 

WOW thats a really good price! i got my dohc ZC with no tranny for $450 at go motor in brea. but they located in anaheim now. but i do have parts for sale and most are for ZC. if anything interest. let me know and we'll work something out.

 

can i use my stock ecu with the dohc zc?

 

will the integra ecu perform better?

 

The integra ECU performs a better, but makes it run rich. You SI ECU will work. Thats a good price. I wish I had found mine that cheap.

 

Noticable difference when you upgrade to the Integra ECU.

 

ttt

 

ok what year crx and what year zc? If it's a SI you couldn't have picked an easier swap. If you are using the zc tranny you will need 90-93 teg shafts and the ZC intermediate shaft. if your shafts are wore out any way I would go with the ZC tranny and install a SI final drive. With a ZC tranny you eliminate torque steer as you now have equal lenght shafts. But if you run the ZC exhaust manifold you will need to change your down-pipe or you can port thr stock SI exhaust manifold and use it. what else do you need to know. your stock SI ecu will work but it's not best. the TEG ecu is good but if you gotta buy one get the PM& as that is the correct ECU for the ZC and you can get them for $75-100.

 

Hi all - I found a good deal on a ZC also. Automatic car though, and want to transplant to my 91 CRX Si.

ecu comes with.

is this possible? Can I run my Si tranny?
anything else needed?

link to instructional art or above is dead now. Any advice appreciated!

thanks!

—Jeff

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...hc-zc-3038308/
USDM D series trans will bolt to a DOHC ZC.

Nonsense notwithstanding, it would have been fine to post this Q in the thread you recently started, rather than necroing this 17 year old thread.

 

Understood. I was on the fence, but if that’s the preferred direction for future posts, I’ll definitely go that route. Thanks.

 

Waste of money

 

not looking for performance increase, just a replacement. Prob rebuild the original later. Just wanted a simple, reliable swap.
$400 gets me engine, ecu and some other parts, 70k miles. Again, just wanting straight up replacement to give me time to rebuild original (future) and still keep me on the road.

 

IMO, better off with a B18a or b

 

smart man. Go d series single cam swap

cheap and easy get yourself back on the road in the shortest amount of time

your old gear box will be a direct fit I’m almost positive

youll need an ecu maybe distributor and motor mounts

 

Thanks to all who helped me make the swap a reality. The car has some new life and is again, a blast to drive!

I’ll list some things I ran into, while fresh in my head, for those who follow this same path.

My donor car was automatic. Since I wanted to keep my 5spd, I needed a few things.
- engine mounts and transmission mounts need to come from the CRX
- timing cover (be prepared to cut this. The timing cover bolt holes on my Z6 were not the same as the D16a. It moves the location and shape of the hole for the bracket. You’ll end up cutting the Z6 version and cutting both upper and lower.
- flywheel and clutch set up (bought new for CRX)
- starter goes with too (from CRX).
- AC and my header was not a good combo. AC lost the battle. That will need to come from CRX or new pressure hoses would be needed. Regardless, I’m not sure how this works without new hoses. Pulley sizes were different too, which will cause you issues if you don’t note which compressor you keep. Likely cause two trips to the parts store if it breaks.

I did get the p28 ecu from donor car, but needs some work to make the car run correctly.
Going from auto to manual means the ecu needs socketed for the manual to operate properly.
I sent my ecu to Mono Pena (MonoTech) and had everything swapped over for 5spd (chipped and mild tune applied as well), and got new harness. Very happy with the speed, craftsmanship and support from Mono. Great guy! He did find some capacitor leakage, sent me photos and did the repairs for a very affordable price. Glad I had it inspected and tested.

Some special tools I was not prepared with was one for the axle nuts. I was able to dig deep and find two. Broke a socket on one side, found a second and got the job done.
also, pulley puller tool. I replaced my balancer in the swap due to a chip, and it did not have the big socket hole. Had to get creative with a piece of chain for removal, and the new pulley had the big socket opening, and I bought the tool, so the install went well.

I’d suggest changing the timing belt and water pump while it’s all accessible, which I also did. It’s a snap to do, and well-worth the extra hour to make it happen.

I also replaced ball joints, a arms and some other very worn components up front. It all came apart, so was a good time to replace those too. It’s all apart, right? Opted to make those repairs while it was in pieces.

Still waiting on an o2 adapter, as my header doesn’t allow for install at either location (top or after collector). So I’m not driving it yet, it will misfire after running a short time but resets after its shut off.

Garage built Honda’s had some great videos for pull and replacement on the engine, as well as trans.

I know you’ll say “duh”, but avoid Amazon parts. I had to end up dropping trans after install due to my cheap clutch kit not being quite right, and replaced with parts from the local shop, but cost me several hours and some excitement lost on that.

Honda parts are cheap anyway, I shouldn’t have skimped there. Would not do again. Listing here for those who would be tempted.

also bought an exhaust kit. Good quality but for wasn’t good. My car is lowered a couple of inches and would have been torn apart by general use quickly, so that cost me $100 and a trip to the local shop to make it all right. And I hate those trips that say “I tried to be cheap and should have just brought it to you in the first place”, but they treated me well regardless.

That’s my download of the experience after having done it. If any questions, just post and I’ll try and answer. I’m no pro. I am mechanically inclined, but just did research, got great advice here, and just took my time.

feedback would be that it was the easiest car I’ve ever worked on. Ever. If I had to be a mechanic for a living, I’d choose to work on Honda’s. Simple. Cheap parts. Easy to find parts. Lots of advice online.

thanks again!