del Sol dome light nonsense
My 1994 Civic del Sol Si has the factory-standard lateral accelerometer. That is, during hard cornering the dome light comes on. I have heard that this is a common problem in del Sols, allegedly due to chassis flex and the door switches.
But my car hasn't always had the problem; I've had it for almost four years, and first saw the dome light come on just a few months ago, during high-g cornering with the roof off. The problem has gradually escalated, and the light now comes on with the roof installed, even under fairly low-g cornering.
Does anyone know enough about this phenomenon to suggest what has changed or degraded in the past few months so that I can make the flickering light go away?
But my car hasn't always had the problem; I've had it for almost four years, and first saw the dome light come on just a few months ago, during high-g cornering with the roof off. The problem has gradually escalated, and the light now comes on with the roof installed, even under fairly low-g cornering.
Does anyone know enough about this phenomenon to suggest what has changed or degraded in the past few months so that I can make the flickering light go away?
yup, happens too me too. Hard bumps, hard cornering freakin dome light binks on and off. it's the freakin door. It won't close all the way shut or somthin..I dunno it doesn't bother me.
Mine also does it... actually i need to adjust my driver's side door because if i lean on it or if am parked on an uneven surface it is enough to trip the dome light. Thank goodness they have the dome light always off switch, or i'd have been forced to fix it long ago.
But to fix it should just need to adjust the little switch.
-k
But to fix it should just need to adjust the little switch.
-k
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From: Woodbridge, NJ, Middlesex
I wonder if I should get you guys started on the damn lock that holds the roof ... mine is bad on the drivers side and leaks like a **** ...
I have a Civic and the dome light is effected by the custom radio I have, it diables the door sensors for some odd reason and does something funny with the alarm when you mess with the fuse box. I don't know anyhting about del sol's problems but I would say if you have a custom radio then you might have problems too. Oh yea for the roof leaks use regular gutter caulk, I used it for my old car, kept leaks out for good.
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mine used to then i got upper/lower rear tie and strut bars kept my vtec upper front then a rear suspension techniques sway and mine has stopped ever since. im still rolling on skunk 2 coilovers with stock shocks...soon to be kyb agx's this weekend. i think u just need reenforcements on the body.
So I've actually fixed my problem; maybe this will help some of you.
I was in the pits at an autocross, and it actually got to the point where to dome light was on even when the door was closed and the car was parked. I examined the driver's door. On the rear-facing edge of the door, the latch is held in place by three #3 Phillips screws. All three were extremely loose, by several turns. I dare not think about what would happen if they worked their way out completely. I tightened those screws, and one on the passenger side.
I also looked at the door striker. This is the U-shaped thing on the door jamb that the latch engages. It's held in place by two #3 Phillips screws. At the top and right corners of the striker plate, there are etched arrows. On the door jamb itself, there are small divots that should line up with the arrows. My striker was sitting outboard of the marks, so that when the door was latched, the door was not as closed as it ought to be. Hence the dome light switch would switch on more easily. I loosened the striker screws (no need to remove them completely), moved the striker inboard, and re-tightened. The door now closed securely, is more flush with the body panels, and the dome light hasn't come on yet in hard cornering.
I was in the pits at an autocross, and it actually got to the point where to dome light was on even when the door was closed and the car was parked. I examined the driver's door. On the rear-facing edge of the door, the latch is held in place by three #3 Phillips screws. All three were extremely loose, by several turns. I dare not think about what would happen if they worked their way out completely. I tightened those screws, and one on the passenger side.
I also looked at the door striker. This is the U-shaped thing on the door jamb that the latch engages. It's held in place by two #3 Phillips screws. At the top and right corners of the striker plate, there are etched arrows. On the door jamb itself, there are small divots that should line up with the arrows. My striker was sitting outboard of the marks, so that when the door was latched, the door was not as closed as it ought to be. Hence the dome light switch would switch on more easily. I loosened the striker screws (no need to remove them completely), moved the striker inboard, and re-tightened. The door now closed securely, is more flush with the body panels, and the dome light hasn't come on yet in hard cornering.
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