Ok, I finally got the clutch fixed in my '98 ITR. Next project is the motor. It is burning a lot of oil...about 3 qts in 1,000 miles (No, I don't let it get that low, but in a mileage figure). I held a piece of white paper behind the exhaust, and had my friend press the accelerator and it left a nice coating of oil on the paper. It's time for new pistons and rings. Here's my dilemma; if it is leaking oil, when I replace the pistons and rings, should I bore it .25mm over, or just replace the pistons? For just pistons and rings, it's about $800-1000 labor, but to bore it over, its about $2300. Thats a big difference, but I want to do it right. Any opinions?

Thanks,

Matt

 

do it yourself. Get a Haines manual, pull the motor, pull the biotch apart, hone the cylinders and put in new rings. Done, will cost you 500$ including gaskets. you shouldnt need new pistons unless you overbore it.

 

I am going to CTR pistons, so I am putting new ones in. I don't have the means to pull the motor, but I could do it in the car if I dont bore it out.

Matt

 

Forget the worthless Haines manual and get a Helms. www.helminc.com

 

should I bore it .25mm over, or just replace the pistons? For just pistons and rings, it's about $800-1000 labor, but to bore it over, its about $2300. Thats a big difference, but I want to do it right. Any opinions?

if i were you i would bore over .25, but that is just my opinion.....youll get some more power , and it will be worth it. If you are going to pay the extra money you might as well bump up the compression a couple points. A healthy 12.1.1 should do the trick. That way if you want to ad some big cams, and valvtrain you will be set to go. The over bore semms like alot of extra money, but if your going to do it .....do it right.

 

Im facing the same problem with my GSR right now and labor is quite $$$ for this type of project. I'm not comfortable enough with my own machincal skills to go at this, so I would rather pay someone with experience to get it done right the first time.

BTW anyone in Chicago know of a reputable shops that can get this done, b/c I would like to check other shops prices to see how they compare with with my mechanics. Thanks.

 

12.1:1 seems a little high running on 93. I was thinking in the neighboorhood of 11.8:1. Do you think I should go for 12.1:1? I think I am going to go Hondata, so tuning is endless, and also Stage 2 cams.

Matt

 

Who did you talk to? I know Benson at kwai can do it, but if you need it bored then he will send it out. I forgot the price he told me. But it was up there, but it included all the parts I would need too.

 

If you've never rebuilt an engine before, I would not suggest starting now unless you have another mode of transportation at your disposal.

So, you're asking if you should go with the .25mm overbore for $1300~1500 more. I'd say no. It's not worth it in my opinion for the puny bump in displacement you'd get. That is a rather significant sum that could be better spent on something else.

As for pistons, if you're wary of running 12:1 on 91 octane you should avoid the CTR pistons, 'cause that's about what you'd have with them. I'd suggest JDM B16A pistons, which would put you at 11.5:1.

 

It would help if you could take a look at the cylinder walls, and see what they look like. But if its drinking that much, I would go ahead and bore it out.

edit: I don't think a brand new b18c5 shortblock cost more than $2000 does it?





[Modified by jond, 10:09 PM 2/2/2003]

 

whn mine went acura quoted me 7800 and change....i told them dont lay a friggin finger on my car.

 

Yeah a new block is too much, when you add it on top of everything. CTR pistons should be fine on 93, as long as my tuning is good. I am just concerned about not putting oversized pistons in a car burning so much oil.

Matt

 

[QUOTE]12.1:1 seems a little high running on 93. I was thinking in the neighboorhood of 11.8:1. Do you think I should go for 12.1:1? I think I am going to go Hondata, so tuning is endless, and also Stage 2 cams.

12.1.1 is fine. i run it on my car with 91 octane daily driven...it runs fine.if you are going to have the motor apart you might as well bump it up all the the first time, cause big cams love compression.what type of cams will you be running??(stage two what)with honda it will rip!!

 

Before you bore it, take it apart and examine the damned thing. You could just have bad oil rings.

 

I am planning on using Skunk2 Stage 2 cams, as I think Stage 3's are too big for the street, and will mess up my idle. As far as examining the cylinders, the difference in labor is between pulling the motor, and rebuilding it inside the car. Boring it isn't all that expensive, so if I have the motor out, I might as well bore it, regardless. However, I think I am going to compression test it tomorrow, and see what the numbers are, as that may better help me determine whether it is oil rings, or the bore is messed up. A figure of around 280psi is correct, right?

Thanks,

Matt

 

For a stock 'C5?

210~225 should be about normal, but remember, you can have good compression and still have bad oil control rings.

A chemical analysis of your engine oil after a typical use cycle can tell you a few things. Perhaps you may try that.

 

So perhaps the oil rings are shot, but the compression is good. Does that mean that the bore is in fine condition, and does not need to be bored. Additionally, who can I have do an analysis of my oil.

Thanks,

Matt

 

Personally, I'd wait to decide whether you should hone or bore.

Take a look at your cylinder walls first...

 

compression also depends on your atmospheric pressure. Up here in washington where I live, it's about 14.7.. and my compression on my ITR engine came out around 190.

 

Don't know off the top of my head where you can get your oil analysis, but it shouldn't be difficult to find out.

You can't know what the bores look like unless you have the motor apart and can look at them. There's no way around it. Chances are, unless that motor has either been blown up or seriously starved of oil at some time, there's nothing wrong with your bores. Chances are you just have crappy rings.

If it turns out you do have to overbore due to some flaw in the bores, you might want to see how much more it costs to just have the thing resleeved to 84.5mm. That would be a difference you'd be sure to notice.

 

exactly

PS. You think sourdough jack's are overpriced? Breakfast Jacks are better and cheaper of course, but I don't think the sourdough jack is that overpriced

 

I am planning on using Skunk2 Stage 2 cams, as I think Stage 3's are too big for the street, and will mess up my idle. As far as examining the cylinders, the difference in labor is between pulling the motor, and rebuilding it inside the car. Boring it isn't all that expensive, so if I have the motor out, I might as well bore it, regardless. However, I think I am going to compression test it tomorrow, and see what the numbers are, as that may better help me determine whether it is oil rings, or the bore is messed up. A figure of around 280psi is correct, right?

your setup sounds good. if you must yank the motor in the end, then definetly bore it. you shout look into jun 3 cams and valvtrain.very good power with a good mean (but streetable) idle. They make really good hp with the right comp.

Thanks,

Matt[/QUOTE]