Questions regaurding ITR cams in b18c... Cam gears, ecu chipping, etc etc...
I just picked up a set of ITR cams to throw into my OBD1 b18c1. Which brings up a couple questions.
1. Which cam gears would be ideal? I was thinking skunk2 as I have plans to purchase some skunk2 stage 2 cams later down the road, but that is not set in stone.
2. I am going to be getting my ECU chipped, and I plan on picking up a couple different programs. What do you recomend?
3. Should the vtec x-over be changed? Is it safe to raise the rev limiter above 8200 on an otherwise stock motor?
This is kind of a temporary setup for me, until I move on to bigger and better things. I am trying to get away with out dyno tuning, So give me your personal experience... thanks in advance!
[Modified by G a b e, 3:24 AM 1/28/2003]
1. Which cam gears would be ideal? I was thinking skunk2 as I have plans to purchase some skunk2 stage 2 cams later down the road, but that is not set in stone.
2. I am going to be getting my ECU chipped, and I plan on picking up a couple different programs. What do you recomend?
3. Should the vtec x-over be changed? Is it safe to raise the rev limiter above 8200 on an otherwise stock motor?
This is kind of a temporary setup for me, until I move on to bigger and better things. I am trying to get away with out dyno tuning, So give me your personal experience... thanks in advance!
[Modified by G a b e, 3:24 AM 1/28/2003]
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From: kyoto sangyo daigaku, kyoto, japan, sometimes bay area CA
1. brand doesn't matter as long as it won't slip or anything. skunk2 is good.
2. i'm OBD2
3. i chagned it to 4900 but haven't dyno tuned it yet. i'd think it would be better higher. and you'll need the ITR valvetrain to go past 8100.
2. i'm OBD2

3. i chagned it to 4900 but haven't dyno tuned it yet. i'd think it would be better higher. and you'll need the ITR valvetrain to go past 8100.
1. brand doesn't matter as long as it won't slip or anything. skunk2 is good.
2. i'm OBD2
3. i chagned it to 4900 but haven't dyno tuned it yet. i'd think it would be better higher. and you'll need the ITR valvetrain to go past 8100.
2. i'm OBD2

3. i chagned it to 4900 but haven't dyno tuned it yet. i'd think it would be better higher. and you'll need the ITR valvetrain to go past 8100.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,351
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From: kyoto sangyo daigaku, kyoto, japan, sometimes bay area CA
1. brand doesn't matter as long as it won't slip or anything. skunk2 is good.
2. i'm OBD2
3. i chagned it to 4900 but haven't dyno tuned it yet. i'd think it would be better higher. and you'll need the ITR valvetrain to go past 8100.
Yup, won't be making much if any power past stock redline on a stock valvetrain.
2. i'm OBD2

3. i chagned it to 4900 but haven't dyno tuned it yet. i'd think it would be better higher. and you'll need the ITR valvetrain to go past 8100.
Yup, won't be making much if any power past stock redline on a stock valvetrain.
Yeah, that whole floating thing kind of sucks...
Does the vtec x-over feel smooth at 4900?
Does the vtec x-over feel smooth at 4900?
Honestly, it feels smooth at the stock 4400 RPM x-over. Don't waste your money on a vtec controller or ECU if you have bigger plans down the road. Also scratch the cam gears off the list if you're not going to dyno tune. If this is a temp setup, just drop them in and enjoy.
Honestly, it feels smooth at the stock 4400 RPM x-over. Don't waste your money on a vtec controller or ECU if you have bigger plans down the road. Also scratch the cam gears off the list if you're not going to dyno tune. If this is a temp setup, just drop them in and enjoy.
I will end up using the cam gears further down the road, so I wouldn't mind picking them up when I get some extra money... I realize I won't get the full potential out of them with out dyno tuning, but is dialing them in going to be too hard on my own? Could they even be counter-productive?
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the changing of the vtec x-over all depends on whether you are swapping out your intake manifold for a single runner design (ITR, Skunk2). The stock x-over is so low because our stock manifolds are dual, which therefore provides a smoother power and torque curve. i'm running a sk2 manifold right now and i've raised my vtec to 5100, which was the optimal crossover for a smooth power band... its been dyno tuned.
if you're dropping the itr cams in as a temp solution and you dont have a new intake manifold (which you should eventually get for an all motor app) i say just put them in and leave them be. why get cam gears if you're not gonna dyno tune it? why dyno tune if you're gonna swap the cams out later? you see what i mean...?you'll need to pay for a lot of dyno time with the stage 2s, so save your $$ for now.
if you're dropping the itr cams in as a temp solution and you dont have a new intake manifold (which you should eventually get for an all motor app) i say just put them in and leave them be. why get cam gears if you're not gonna dyno tune it? why dyno tune if you're gonna swap the cams out later? you see what i mean...?you'll need to pay for a lot of dyno time with the stage 2s, so save your $$ for now.
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From: Formerly of SF moved to DFW and now back in SF, CA, USA
1. I say get the gears now. You're going to need them later on anyways. And since you are swapping in the R cams, it'll be easy to replace them. Just tighten the bolts and keep them at 0 degrees. Plus, who knows, you may end up keeping these cams for a while.
2. ECU's... each car is different. You really need to dyno tune with each chip to see what works best.
3. Yes, the vtec x-over should generally be raised. But again, unless you tune it, you won't know what it the optimal setting.
When I installed my R cams, I was running really rich so an A/F controller would be a good thing to have for future tuning. I ran without one for a few months but I kept my timing set at stock 16 degrees. Plus, you could always sell it later on if you decide on a stand alone system like an AEM EMS or Hondata.
Plan out what you want to do and find out what you will need to get there. No need on wasting $$ on stuff you won't need down the road. (like some guys worrying about a header when they are planning to go F/I. It's a waste of $$)
Good luck!
2. ECU's... each car is different. You really need to dyno tune with each chip to see what works best.
3. Yes, the vtec x-over should generally be raised. But again, unless you tune it, you won't know what it the optimal setting.
When I installed my R cams, I was running really rich so an A/F controller would be a good thing to have for future tuning. I ran without one for a few months but I kept my timing set at stock 16 degrees. Plus, you could always sell it later on if you decide on a stand alone system like an AEM EMS or Hondata.
Plan out what you want to do and find out what you will need to get there. No need on wasting $$ on stuff you won't need down the road. (like some guys worrying about a header when they are planning to go F/I. It's a waste of $$)
Good luck!
i have all the stuff you have pretty much
but i didnt have down time to get my valvesprings , im currently using a stock p72 ecu , i have a apexi vafc i set vtec at 5200 , i have the skunk2 and itr tbody , when i got the cams i bought some spoon cam gears paid 240 for them new , there set at zero right now , i plan on getting dyno tuning soon ,im looking to get a p28 ecu and looking for a program that revs to 8400 the max ( i know i will be taking a slight risk ) i got my apexi like 2 years ago before hondata was out
,also a fpr risor would be a good idea if you arent planning on chipping your ecu
but i didnt have down time to get my valvesprings , im currently using a stock p72 ecu , i have a apexi vafc i set vtec at 5200 , i have the skunk2 and itr tbody , when i got the cams i bought some spoon cam gears paid 240 for them new , there set at zero right now , i plan on getting dyno tuning soon ,im looking to get a p28 ecu and looking for a program that revs to 8400 the max ( i know i will be taking a slight risk ) i got my apexi like 2 years ago before hondata was out
,also a fpr risor would be a good idea if you arent planning on chipping your ecu
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