ok guys,
As most of you know, had a block sent to GE about 5 months ago, and i finally got all of the parts and the block back about 1 month ago..
It was with my machinst for about 2 weeks ,getting it align bored, honed,bottem end balanced, and the deck,and main all checked..


THe first problem that my machinst had was that the stock honda crank pulley was a POS, and with the crank pulley installed the bottem end was thrown off by almost 4 grams, and it would very as the rpm's went up and down.
So i had to throw that POS away , and i bought a new UNDERDRIVE pulley, as soon as we put the under drive pulley on the crank it was only 1 gram off!!!
so when he was done with the crank i ended up with a balance of .5 of a gram within a 1/2in!!!!! (*very good*)

Ok so the past weekend i start putting the motor back together, and the bottem end was perfect!!! all of the clearances were dead on!!!.

so i get the bottem end all assembled and i notice that on the D16Y8 there is no ******* Dipstick tube on the front of the motor like the D16Z6!!!WTF??

so then i look around and i find a dipstick tube out of my D16Z6, i look on the fron of the Y8 block and i see right where it should be....so i take out the trusty old drill, and slowly(cant say how damn slow!!) start to drill the block where the dip stick should be.. after about 2 hours of slowly doing this i get it!!! it looks awesome...
Problem #2 solved!!

Now the next problem for all of you D-series guys.. i found that the ARP studs DO NOT WORK WITH THE Y8 MOTOR!!!!

I get all of the studs in the block and and set the head down on it and the studs stick up through the head by about 21/2 inches!!!! the unthreaded part of the damn stud was showing through!!!!

so i have to throw them out and i got a set of stock D16y8 studs this sucks
for now that is all i have,, i am going to call ARP and see what they say about maybe making me a set of studs,if i give them measurements..

Any how though, i did get the motor all together, and it is sitting in the car, i just have to hook up the electrical stuff now and finish my DP.

*notes*
OE Honda pulleys are POS......ARP D16 head studs dont work with the Y8 motor..... and the Y8 doesnt have a damn DIPSTICK!!!!!

All in all my weekend went ok,
Brian

 

1. I think you had a fluke of a pulley? Who knows.
2. Everybody knows ARP studs don't work with the Y8, should have searched
3. There's a dipstick right in front of the lower timing belt cover, every Y8 has one.

Good luck on the rest!

 

yeah the oulley may have been a fluke,

the arp i did search and i had a IM from some guy(cant remeber name) that told me they would work with no problem..


and the dip stick on the y8 is made into the oil pump housing..

I had already bought a new Z6 pump..

Brian

 

Is there any advantage from running the Z6 pump, instead of the Y8? Or was it some other reason?

 

i couldnt find the y8 pumo any where but the dealer, andi had already bought the Z6 pumo for my old motor, because i thought i was going to sleve my old block, but then i sleeved the Y8 instead..


it all turned out good. the dip stick looks like it was there from honda!!!!

I should have it up and running tonight!!!

 

If you dont mind me asking, why are you using a y8 block? I dont think the y8 block is as good as a z6. I have heard of the y8 having problems with spinning bearings or have i heard wrong?

 

It is just hear say..
the Y8 bottom end is identical to the Z6 bottom end..

I have had the two right beside each other, and they look like each other..

I got a good deal on the Y8 block from inline pro.

Brian

 

Thanks for clarifying that for me.

 

No prob. bro..

and since it is sleeved i cant turn around now.....
Brian

 

Sorry to hear about the ARP studs, but for the Y8 here is the right part number:


AP-208-4305

I posted this awhile back; I guess you missed it. But I put in bold so you don't miss it again.

 

Thanks alot man!!!!!!

you are 100% sure that these fit the Y8??

let me know ASAP.
Brian

 

Yes. The part number for the Z6 is: ARP-208-4301

while the Y8 is ARP-208-4305.

No problem. Feel free to buy me a set for my Y8


[Modified by swrdply400mrelay, 5:21 PM 1/27/2003]

 

hahahahaha yeah i just called ARP and they told me that the 4301 is 6.4" long and the 4305 are 5.7" long..

and with the washers installed they would be the proper lenght for me!!

it is to damn late now!!!!!! i have a set of Brand new Z6 studs that are worthless!!!
Brian

 

Where did you buy your studs at? Maybe you can exchange them?

 

is it a complete y8 or are you using a y8 bottom w/ z6 block...sorry to hear your troubles, but don't stress it...just get all the kinks out now, so you dont' have to tear the biatch down later!

 

i am using a Y8 bottom end with a Z6 head..


I got my studs from Summit.
they said no exchange, they told me to call ARP, and then ARP told me no exchange

oh well. i have it runnning on the stcok head blots for now,(just for break in)
then i will swap out the stock ones for the ARP's..

Thanks alot guys,
Brian

 

brian, i spoke to d-man on here, who helped me out greatly...he had ta z6 block w/ y8 head, and he too purchsaed arp head studs...i know they fit if you add 3 washers on one side, and 2 on the other...if the same works for y8 block w/ z6 head..then i have 3 extra washers, that i never used....try and get in touch w/ d-man and ask for sure..if it'll work, PM or e-mail me, and i'll have these extra washers mailed to you ASAP, by the way......ARP headstuds for the y8 are on back order for awhile now.....

 

Its ok bro,
i just talked to ARP and they have them instock for $105 and then i wont have to stack washers under them..
the washer stacking thing may work,but i dont want to take anychances..

thanks alot though

Brian

(One hell of a guy!!)

 

can i ask why you would put all this time, money, effort, hassle, etc....into your sohc??? just a question.

 

Nice! I got a question.......how will you know how far the dipstick will go down to check for the proper oil level? Will the new dipstick tube make it the right height?

 

People love their SOHCs. I loved mine, and I was sad to see it go...until I looked over at my B series beauty.

 

hahaha i was waiting for the question to come up..

I built the SOHC because it is different and i am not jumping on the DOHC band wagon, i know to some the easy way is the best.. i just want to prove what a SOHC motor is capable of doing...
i love to seee the look of shock on peoples faces after they find out it is a SOHC..


Brian

 

oh and on the dipstick thing, it is in the same spot as the 92-95 and i am using the 92-95 pan so the oil level will be the same..
Brian

 

 

sohc's can make plenty of powr on stock internals


TurbodCX, were your dyno #'s in your sig SAE or the actual hp #'s??????


[Modified by BoostedED9, 4:08 PM 1/27/2003]