first off to prevent flaming i DID a search and didnt find the answers i was looking for, with that said here goes...after completeing the dpfi-mpfi swap i finally got the car started but still am getting code4. i have made sure that the ecu connections are pushed inall the way , switched the crank angle sensor wiring, swapped ecu's, swapped dizzy's all off of a running car. the parts i have swapped that "didnt work" on my car did work on my roomates car and vise versa. i have tried all the posted solutions that were given in archived topics and didnt seem to work for me. i am looking for more suggestions that i might have missed or misunderstood. the car starts and runs from idle to about 3000 rpm and the timing is correct. the only thing that i can think of is that it has got to be a problem in the wiring. one more thing is that i have only unplugged the ecu between tries and changes instead of pulling the fuse if that is a problem. please help...thanks!

 

As long as the ECU is unpluged for a few seconds thats fine. Was that a known working Diz that you are using. It seems that its a problem with the Crank Circuit.
First unhook the 5 or 7 pin connector where the diz hooks up to the main harness. Now measure resistance between pins, its the middle two pins. There is accually 3 in a row from left to right measure the resistance between the 2 that are in a row up and down with the other pins not using the one by itself in the plug. This is for the SI/HF. There should be between 350 and 550 ohms if this is ok reconnect and test at the ECU and measure the resistance between pins B10 and B12 also between 350-550 ohms. If anything is out of spec you need to replace that sensor which if you have a junk diz laying around swipe it from that, or get a newer/known good diz. if you want to replace it its the first one closest to the diz cap. Just remove it and replace and rewire it in, it will work done it a few times already and alot cheeper then a new diz. best of luck

the pins should line up like this: if this helps at all just think of each dash as a female pin

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[Modified by zCivic, 1:58 AM 1/24/2003]

 

thanks, i'll bring my multi meter home and double check the wiring and the resistances you stated.

 

its a 11 year old part. Its just a coil and over time the plastic breaks down, wire unwraps/breaks. Now if you have everything check out correctly resistance wise, you may have the pins backwards sometime that will also throw a code.