gutting stock hood....
take a dremel or angle grinder(w/ cutting disc), and carefully cut through the web part. there is a gap of air about 2mm between the hood and the web - so there is not much room for error...
the web itself is attached to the hood by little circular stickies that will just pop off with a bit of pulling.
it's really easy to do...
be careful not to cut in one spot for too long as it can heat up the metal and cause the paint to bubble on the top-side of your hood.
the web itself is attached to the hood by little circular stickies that will just pop off with a bit of pulling.
it's really easy to do...
be careful not to cut in one spot for too long as it can heat up the metal and cause the paint to bubble on the top-side of your hood.
maybe 1lb if your lucky...
the only real reason to do it I'd say is if you have clearance issues with a B-series engine.
My hood is pretty wobbly now and I only cut off the webbing around the valve cover / distributor area. But I dont have hood locks and I haven't had any problems with it.
The hood is unpainted under the webbing, so you have to rattle-can it to make it look nice if you care.
the only real reason to do it I'd say is if you have clearance issues with a B-series engine.
My hood is pretty wobbly now and I only cut off the webbing around the valve cover / distributor area. But I dont have hood locks and I haven't had any problems with it.
The hood is unpainted under the webbing, so you have to rattle-can it to make it look nice if you care.
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hey man you will have problems if you do this. i don't know if you prefer looks over going fast but if you want looks then don't do it. Your hood will have some BAD dents. That reinforcement is there because the sheetmetal thickness is really thin on imports. the sheet metal will warp and become oil canny. trust me i have a '90 cr-x up here at college and i was welding on the hood to "shave" the window washer squirters. to make a long story short the hood couldn't handle heat worth crap and it warped it beyond all belief. so trust me if you want to shed weight remove the interior and the extra metal brackets and factory sound proofing tar. autobody here at Ferris has taught me a lot.
I have no dents on my hood. If you do it carefully it will be fine. But like I said don't let it heat up too much, and this is only worth doing if you have clearance issues.
if you are going to do this i suggest you leave the out side of the webbing around the edges of the hood. also like the others said it will be flimmsy. honda sheet metal is junk
There is no point in doing it.(unless for clearance) If your lucky you might get 12oz of weight off of the least helpful place to take it off the car. It's not worth the risk of warping it and when you open the hood it might make it look nasty.
take a dremel or angle grinder(w/ cutting disc), and carefully cut through the web part. there is a gap of air about 2mm between the hood and the web - so there is not much room for error...
the web itself is attached to the hood by little circular stickies that will just pop off with a bit of pulling.
it's really easy to do...
be careful not to cut in one spot for too long as it can heat up the metal and cause the paint to bubble on the top-side of your hood.
the web itself is attached to the hood by little circular stickies that will just pop off with a bit of pulling.
it's really easy to do...
be careful not to cut in one spot for too long as it can heat up the metal and cause the paint to bubble on the top-side of your hood.
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