ok, here's the deal ... im getting a 89 crx si, I want to get the best possible suspension/braking setup for this amount of money, I will be swapping a b16 after I get all my suspension ready to handle it

this is for daily driving / road racing

thanks


[Modified by SteveeeO, 9:01 PM 1/20/2003]

 

well, as far as brakes go, i think that brembo blanks/axis pads/ some brake fluid i can't remember has been argued as the best setup (i think that it's about $130-140 for all of that). As far as suspension goes, it really depends on your preference. I have eibach pro-kit springs that I like a lot, and kyb gr-2 shocks. That was about $400 shipped, i believe. If you can afford it, i would get adjustable shocks, especially if you want to race. Just my $.02.

 

I think of it this way
Ef is old car
should be a beater
no point in spending 800 on suspension
But if you want to know my opinion
Tein
For 800
Best Bet
koni yellow with Ground Control
If you don't want to mess with Coilovers
Get HR race for optimal Auto X
otherwise street eiback prokit

 

old car... that's the thing, I want the suspension / handling / braking like a new car or better... I know that's possible to do with a brake upgrade including new MC and brake booster with all the other brake mods...

your talking $800 for koni yellows alone? lol I need like a whole setup... I saw a deal on KYB GR2's and Neuspeed springs for around $350, then put the rest in for braking ... but I don't know how these GR2s compare to AGX

anyone wanna fill me in?

 

If you're actually going to spend any time on a road course, don't waste your money on anything but a complete coilover setup, or the GC+koni's. Before that though, you are going to need a poly bushing kit (I recommend prothane). Forget about your brakes, and just get some pads and new fluid for now. You'd be better off making sure that every other maintenance item is in new or very good condition. I have yet to come across a CRX that doesn't have at least one bad wheel bearing, and most are both bad up front (I've ruined three used sets all spending only one day at the track, one was even JDM). Upper control arms and ball joints are a must, as well as tie rod ends. How are the rear trailing arm bushings? probably cracked and dried out. I have the cheap energy suspension ones on my daily driver, and recommend the prothane units. Before you consider anything else, bushings, then see how much money and patience you have left.

 

if you go lower than 1 inch with the gr2 you are gone
gr2 aren't even made to be lowered
they are oem
trust me I have the gr2 on my car now
which I got for 130 and they suck
and i thought a i got a good deal but it ends up i will be changing them in about 1 year
gr2 are not made to be lowered
they are oem struts

 

I have GR2s on my car lowered 2'' and they are more than fine.

Inlinefour.com has a kit for like $300 or something for a set of Neuspeed Sports and GR2 struts. Seems like a good deal. Thats my setup and it works well

 

Same here,GB-2's with skunk coils.They work fine

 

kyb can never come close to the performance of Koni shocks.

you shouldn't budget your suspension, buy the best when you have the money. don't go half-assed and get an OK setup, when for 200 more you could get a great setup..

as for brakes, unless your car is a PURE DEDICATED race car, where that's all you'll do with it, you won't need a big-brake upgrade.. just get the following:

Stainless steel lines are a must
a good dot 3/4 brake fluid
nice pads, i love my hawk HP+ good for street and autox/light track.
and brembo OEM replacement rotors..

no rear disc brake conversion, or integra front brakes are needed what-so-ever to be successful on the track.. all IT cars have to remain with the stock setup.. they don't need any fancy brake setups, just nice ones..

post this question in the road race/autocross forum. you'll get a lot more responses as far as autox and track is conserned..

 

alright.. this had made me wonder all my life, what does "good" brake fluid do? it make no sense, all brake fluid serves the EXACT same purpose, maybe it doesn't absorb water as much? I don't know... but it just seems stupid to buy expensive brake fluid IMO

well I wanted rear disc conversion because I learned the hard way drums are NOT fun to work on / cost a lot more money... slotted rotors I heard let your brake pads last longer, and improve braking some... see, people are saying spend $600-800 for some koni shocks, I know suspension shouldn't be budgetted, but when u only make so much $800 is a ton for me - also saying I am trying to save up for a b16 swap (around ~$3000)

 

right on ... i waited another couple months to get my car lowered... and now i'm glad i did and didn't half *** it just to get it done... neuspeed race= $155... koni yellows= $530... ingalls kit= $130... total= $815... a whopping $15 OVER your budget... i'm sure you can bundle that up with the change in your couch cushions

 

I picked up a set of EX knuckles/brakes at a junk yard for $125.

I recently picked up a set of used (but clean) H&R coilovers with ground control (Eibach) springs on them for $500. Adjustable ride height, but non-adjustable dampers. I can have them sent out and revalved if I decide to go with a heavier spring in the future. Very comfortable streetable ride.

 

dude, slotted rotors eat away at the surface of the brake pads to clean them so NO WAY could they make them last longer.. slotted and cross-drilled wear away at the pads quicker..

as far as the suspension goes, i know from experience..

 

Integra Brake Booster/Master Cylinder
Goodridge stainless lines
Powerslot rotors
Rear disc converstion, if not already.
AEM or EBC pads

this is my personal setup and i like it.

 

brake fluid makes a world of difference.. it's the difference of a spongy pedal and a hard pedal after 10 laps at a High Performance Driving Event, HPDE, on a road course.. it's a must for track days.. why is this? better brake fluid has a higher boiling point. when boiling point is reached, air bubbles form causing spongy pedal feel.. not good when slowing down from 95+ mph, to 45 mph into a corner..

 

well, as I stated this is for daily driving .. so stops from 95 to 45 arent my thing

the most stopped I would do is a gradual stop from ~100 mph to about 10 mph on the track, but that's about it...

and about brakes the main reason I want to do my brakes is so I don't have to worry about faulty parts (my current car) - I have invested over $300! just to fix this thing because all my parts went like a chain reaction... goes from my pads to my pass caliper to my pass wheel cylinder to my brake line, to my driver wheel cyl, to my rear brakes, to my mc, then to some hose that connects my mc together, then to my porpotioning valves... that is a lot of work / a lot of money

and as for suspension .. where can I find those koni yellows at? haven't really found a website that sells them, what springs would u recommend with them? (around a 2 in drop)

 

Suspension:
Koni yellows - $550 ($140/fronts, $130/rears)
GC - $300

there's the spring/shock setup.
ST rear sway - $150

Now you have a good suspension setup.
ES Bushings - $120

Ah, there's nothing else you need... maybe a camber kit.

Brakes:
Motul 600 fluid - $11/bottle (needs 2 bottles for complete flush)
Hawk pads - $60?
Stainless steel brake lines - $90
resurfaced rotors - $20/ea

if you have some old calipers
reman. calipers - $80?

that's it. You don't need a rear disc conversation... that's some odd myth that people thought was necessary... it's not.