Crank Pulley info.
I just had my stock crank pulley put back on after having a UR one on for about 7 months because the power gains were not worth the <U>potential</U> problems and because the new belts that UR recomended seemed to be slipping.
The people at the shop i took my car back to sweared that there is no problem with having a lightend crank pulley becuase honda crank shafts are balanced.
After driving with the stock crank pulley back on the it seems to rev smoother.
That's just my experience with crank pullies becuase everyone i've ever talked to has had different opinions on changing a crank pulley.
The people at the shop i took my car back to sweared that there is no problem with having a lightend crank pulley becuase honda crank shafts are balanced.
After driving with the stock crank pulley back on the it seems to rev smoother.
That's just my experience with crank pullies becuase everyone i've ever talked to has had different opinions on changing a crank pulley.
[Modified by sauceman77, 9:18 PM 1/21/2003]
crank pulley is definately not worth it. I think balancing the motor with the new pulley would be the only was to avoid a problem over time.
honda designed it with a harmonic damper as the factory design.
honda designed it with a harmonic damper as the factory design.
It has nothing to do with balancing. Its harmonics that you have to worry about.
The stock pulley and the aftermarket one could be balanced with all the rotating components. Problem is only the OEM pulley has the rubber between the crank and the belt interface.
Since 4 cyls are harmonically unbalanced the rubber is needed along with the balance shafts.
The stock pulley and the aftermarket one could be balanced with all the rotating components. Problem is only the OEM pulley has the rubber between the crank and the belt interface.
Since 4 cyls are harmonically unbalanced the rubber is needed along with the balance shafts.
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Replacing your harmonic balancer with an aftermarket unit will probably cause a few odd problems. Engine bearings probably wouldn't last as long and the crankshaft itself is stressed more because anything more than 1/2 degree of crankshaft twist will cause a failure (sooner or later). You may have flywheel bolts, flexplate bolts, engine mount bolts, etc... that won't stay tight.
For the sake of durabillity, I'd stay with the factory balancer. I'm sure a lot of R&D went into its design.
For the sake of durabillity, I'd stay with the factory balancer. I'm sure a lot of R&D went into its design.
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