What you'll need...and need to know...

You need to know that you should only use this when racing, or on the track...the cooling method is cheap, but not very long lasting...use it only when neccesary...but with almost all DIY's sometimes they are use prohibited...if that makes any sense...anyway...

1. 2 vaccum sealed aluminium boxs...roughly 5*5...they need to open up, but still seal
2. Platic, or metal tubing( apprx. 1/8" to 3/4"thick...it's your choice...some yield diffrent results) that is very flexible...
3. A tap set, with vaccum line attachments...
4. 2 2"battery powered blowers of some sort...it can be computer fans, but it needs to push a decent amount of cfm...and suck a decent amount as well...if you want to hardwire it then make sure it takes a few volts ( 12 to be exact...plus the current it supplies), oh and if you don't hard wire it then make sure you get rechargable batteries...)
5. 1 short 2" pipe...w/ bolt-on capabilities...or a local welding shop w/ and aluminium welder...hehe(that's the expensive part)
6. Dry ice from your local grocery store...or something else...we use LN2, but unless you have readily available access then use dry ice, or water proof it, and use ice...

Oh and Patience...

The basic physics theory behind this is that if you keep air flowing over a surface that is being heated it will take longer to get hot, or cool it down...or if you take it a step further, you keep it at temperatures below zero it may never get heated( in a perfect vaccum)...the idea is to cool the air before it hits the JRSC...we even took it a step further and wrapped the intake manifold of the JRSC as well, be careful though...don't run the hell out of the engine until the JRSC is well broken into w/ this DIY. Or you could crack it...

First thing you are going to do is find enough platic/metal tubing to cover your intake pipe going into you JRSC. Make sure that when you cover it that no slack is in the line, and that the line doesn't move when driving...we sleeved the unit, with heat shrink, but that's your call... We preferred plastic, because if you did kink it...then you could always unkink it...but not with copper tubing. However, copper tends to stay cooler longer, but either way it works... You are going to want to cover it completely all the way down to the air filter, and as far as you can go toward your JRSC...the idea is to keep a costant flow of very cold air running through this tubing...also make sure that you have a large amount of tubing left over so that you can run it to a convienent location. We chose the trunk, just to keep it out of the way...

After you have run the line to the JRSC, take the excess tubing and run it to you convienent location, (i.e. the trunk(it's cooler in there)) but try to keep it out of the engine bay, because dry ice evaporates fast if not vaccum sealed...where as LN2(a.k.a. liquid nitrogen) lasts a long time...Ok...if you want to use LN@ invest in a water pump, but make sure that you can run it off of DC power...I chose air for most of you guys, because it is cheaper...

Take you 5*5 boxes and tap 2 holes...one on each box! if you use bigger piping then tap a hole that will accomodate the piping...we used oil return line taps, but you use what you can find...I wanted to use gasket sealer,but I'm ghetto so...

Ok, next make sure that you mount the fan to the other side of the box's, or the opposite side of the piping/hosing...on one box you want the fan to suck...on the other box you want the fan to blow...or if you are using a water pump then you figure it out...make sure that the box stays as airtight as you can possibly get it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now just connect the tubes/hosing/piping on each box...it won't really matter which one, just as long as there is only one direction air can flow...

P.S. make sure that you connect the fans properly, you don't want both of them to blow at each other...in other words, one fan should blow air in, one should suck air out.

Next...connect the 2" metal pipe to your 2" battery powered fan that BLOWSSSS the air ...( I hope you got one that was 2") ...hehe, and throw the dry ice in there...connect the fans to your battery/batteries and then to a switch...mount the switch somewhere and BOOM)))!


Good luck on my instructions, but the theory works...you will run lower temps for a few hours, until you run out of coolant, but I've seen water do the same thing, so if you wanted to use water, w/ dry ice in it, then try it, but for a cheap and effective DIY...I'm sure you will be happy...sorry there were no pics, but I'm sure that most of you will get the idea, and do something similar to this..., if you felt so inclined, I've heard of guys running LN2 sprays on the JRSC, when it begins to heat up...by the flick of a switch...but I've also heard of the JRSC's cracking too...so...whatever floats your boat, but I can bet that if you do this right that you will have no complaints...

PSS... make sure to turn the unit on about 5 to 10 min's before you start driving...it helps quite a bit...

Good luck,

when I get pics I'll let y'all know...

Jay

 

Wow...very creative man! Thanks for the info....I'd definitely like to scope some pics when you get them up

 

The 3rd time I read this, it made sense.


The idea is to supercool the intake tube, correct?
If so, would it be similar to running pre-chilled air into the intake tract.
quite the concept.

Any pics?

 

I saw a bunch of pics of a JRSC setup where the guy, sick of detonation, custom built a plate that he wedged between the manifold and blower so that he could run tubing to an aftercooler. It looked very very well done, and I bet with the 10lbs pulley and lower intake temps you easily overcome the pressure drop from the tubing inter/after cooler. Something like that widely available would make allot more people interested in the JRSC IMO, as it's a much better solution than the water injection band-aid currently utilized.

 

Pics are on the way...they won't be from my buddies car, but I will show you with an intake tube, and etc...just give me a couple of days...cool?

Late,

Jay

 

I was also talking to another guy about an intercooling system that is mounted inside of a modified jrsc manifold. It uses the same concept as this method, however it's an internal cooler rather than an external one.

Either way, I look forward to seeing some pics.

cheers!

 

good job...looks like i need to go shopping! to you:

 

I'd like to see those pics. In my mind that's the only big problem with the JRSC kit.

 

You are describing the 'Holy Grail' of JRSC apps. I know the guy who did that and he got very good results from it but he was running insane blower speeds (like 17 PSI or something)

Sooner or later someone will make a kit to do exactly what you describe. Hell,... If I had $15K in seed money I'd manufacture one myself, but to do it custom costs several thousand dollars.

Mike

 

LMAO I've thought the same thing many times. I mean you don't even need a huge aftercooler. The JRSC doesn't generate the heat a turbo does, but obviously you can't just crank the boost up either. IOW maintaining as little drop in pressure would be as important as cooling in this situation, but I can't believe noone has marketed such an animal yet. People already blow thousands on that water injection band-aid. Heck I'd play with a JRSC myself if someone could produce something like this for under $3kish.

 

I haven't even bothered installing my water injection, since there are so many other options available for cooling the system. It's just a matter of figuring out which is the best way to do it.

Let's keep this baby TTT!

 

Gearheaded:

Have you done any measurement of intake air temps with this mod? Although I'm sure that cooling the air before the JRSC helps some, the vast majority of the heat comes after the JRSC. The JRSC itself compresses the air and blows hot air into the intake manifold.

Sonny

 

Sonny is right, nothing you can do before the compressor is going to help much. You need to do it where the heat is: after the compressor. It shouldn't be too hard to make a plate to sandwhich between the head and compressor, drill some holes in it, use some thinwall 1/8" aluminum tubing to run coolant or water thru it. Not sure how much pressure drop this would cause though. Just go buy a small electric water pump like the ones used on water injection setups, and buy a small radiator and you're done.

 

Wrong, doesn't the 50% efficiency rate of a roots blower mean anything to you?

 

Where the hell did you get that number? Adiabatic efficiency of an Eaton at recommended boost levels, is between 60-65%.

 

I saw intake air temps as high as 210 deg at 6 psi on my JRSC'd B16A2. It most definitely gets hot...REAL hot!

Sonny

 

Correct and the newest 4th generation design has gotten to nearly %70. For the drivability and the killer torque curve I just like the blower more than a turbo. Now if some cleaver dude could just figure out the intercooler issue.

For me, I plan to go to 12 PSI in the late spring and I'm going to use the Aquamist system to keep the temps reasonable.

Mike

 

Someone already has.

http://www.teamklr.com/klr/

I've seen this kit in person, although it was already installed. I dont know if there are any dyno numbers but I talked to the guy who helped design it and he claims it brings temps down to ambient with only a 1psi pressure drop (pretty good from what I've read about air-water coolers). There's not a ton of info on that site so I can tell you all what I know later, but I gotta run now.

The only possible drawback is I've heard it somewhat limits flow because of the size of plumbing. Dunno how valid this is though. I'll elaborate later.

This is a local shop here in Knoxville, TN btw. I think they will ship though if you contact them.

 

Screw that, I'd drive to Kentucky to see that.

As far as heat goes, clearly whenever you compress something it gets hot. Air is no exception. The fact that an SC doesn't use exhaust gasses means it's cooler than a turbo, but it still generates tremendous heat. Physics never take a breather.

 

I disagree with the idea that the turbo's exhaust side appreciably heats the intake side. Have you ever touched the compressor scroll of a just used turbocharger? It's hot due to the airflow and internal compression, but not that hot at all (you won't burn your hand). Meanwhile the exhaust side might be glowing red. The point is that the intake charge is both shielded from that heat with the oil and hopefully water cooled center section, and the air is moving through the scroll at well over 100mph under boost anyway. These two facts leave very little potential for appreciable heat absorption into the intake charge. Besides, the compression and turbulence caused by generating the type of flow and compression a centrifugal can is where the real heat is made.

Ps- Roots superchargers don't actual compress the intake charge, they simply pressurize it. If you want internal compression, you need a Lysholm (twin screw) charger. Also, roots are very ineffective at blowing into a high pressure ratio, their adiabatic efficiency does drop down into the 50% range when you start going above approx. 12 psi.

 

Exactly right.. which is why I'd jump on a twin screw charger if anyone ever made one for Hondas. They have all the advantages of the roots with none of the disadvantages.

 

you're dead on with this one.
At full boost I saw 220f on my datalogger w@6psi, without the hondata gasket, and 180f with the gasket, and the addition of an Iceman plastic intake system.

That's step one to cooling, but it's not enough, as I was still seeing egt's of nearly 1600f at the top of 3rd.

 

Propane injection.