I own a 2000 Si and have had some past experience with B16A motors in it. when i blew my last one up i went to B18B LS motor. the car has had a turbo on both B16A and B18B motors. I feel the B18B runs alot stronger with the turbo and seems to pull my heavy car a lil better also. i just wanted to get opinions on my odd swap ... lemme know what you think

http://www.mamsports.com Baltimore Honda Specialists

 

well what probably makes it so much fun is the amount of torque your making with the LS enigne.. but don't you miss being able to take it up to 8200 instad of the 6800 Ls redline..

 

Yea thats the only thing i miss is that extra 1000 rpm. however with some crower 402Ts and some valvetrain swapping 8500 rpm is on the way!!!!!!! the car makes almost as much torque as it does horsepower!!!

 

If I ever do an engine swap (read: this summer when I do any engine swap) I think I'm going to go with an LS. They're very cheap (compared to b-series VTEC), a helluva lot torqueier than my d16z6, as well as more hp, and I can always do a VTEC conversion is I miss those other lobes. Though, I'm still torn between that and using supra pistons, some good rods, and bracing the cylinders in my engine...hmm...
is your b18b stock? how much boost are you running?

 

I want to start an engine build up this summer, but there are just tooooo many choices. Right now I've narrowed it down to a turbo D16 or n/a H22 for budget reasons, but the B18B is looking pretty good too. Damnit...

 

my B18B is stock as all hell!!!! i ownly run 7psi to it. it made 216 Whp @ 208 ft. lbs. The Torque kicks ***!!! My si with full interior and 22x8 slicks on ITR wheels went 13.4 @ 104mph (it was bogging out of the hole)at Maryland international Raceway.

 

I will be putting a ls in my si very soon. My b18c5 needs a rebuild, and i dont have the time nor the money to find another b16 or gsr or itr. I have a ls sitting here, so we will see how this works.

Anyone care to give a noob to this kinda motor setup. What type of wiring do i need to do.

00 si
obd1 ls block
Can get a obd2 ls dizzy.

What else is needed or do i need to do.

TIA

 

IMO swapping anything into an Si is a waste of purchasing an Si in the first place. If the motor blew, I can understand it... but I see people selling perfectly good b16a2s they've ripped out.

I can understand the want for more torque, but wtf did you buy a goddamn Si if you knew you were going to want a larger engine with more torque?

As long as I own my car it will have a stamp that says B16a2 on the engine block.

It might not be 1595 cc's, but it'll still be a b16a2.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO swapping anything into an Si is a waste of purchasing an Si in the first place. If the motor blew, I can understand it... but I see people selling perfectly good b16a2s they've ripped out.

I can understand the want for more torque, but wtf did you buy a goddamn Si if you knew you were going to want a larger engine with more torque?

As long as I own my car it will have a stamp that says B16a2 on the engine block.

It might not be 1595 cc's, but it'll still be a b16a2.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true, why spend all that money for a SI, when u could have bought the same exact car for like 6 grand less or something, a EX or even a DX, and through a motor in there, but IMO i hate b16s TQ, with a passion, thats why i went with LS, sucks can't reach to 8200 or watever, but some cams and valve train will help that.

good numbers by the way on 7lbs

 

yeab but the B16A2's head just makes for a fun car. Slap the Si head onto that B18 and knock yourself out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO swapping anything into an Si is a waste of purchasing an Si in the first place. If the motor blew, I can understand it... but I see people selling perfectly good b16a2s they've ripped out.

I can understand the want for more torque, but wtf did you buy a goddamn Si if you knew you were going to want a larger engine with more torque?

As long as I own my car it will have a stamp that says B16a2 on the engine block.

It might not be 1595 cc's, but it'll still be a b16a2.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when thy bought it.. they didnt know they would get addicted.. until they realized that b16s are slow

 

it didnt matter to me one way or another. i have a b18c5 in mine. all im doing is putting something in til i can get my new crank and drive my head to RLZ.

Anyways, anyone have any steps?

 

im surprised no one has mentioned the Ls vtec ,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alex_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im surprised no one has mentioned the Ls vtec ,</TD></TR></TABLE>

very mentioned. But too much time for something thats temp.

 

I don't know why everyone is so excited about "being able" to rev so high. <FONT COLOR="red">Having</FONT> to wring your **** out to 8200rpm to get anywhere is utterly rediculous. I'll take an LS or GSR engine in an EM1 any day of the week. Torque moves you: HP carries torque.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know why everyone is so excited about "being able" to rev so high. <FONT COLOR="red">Having</FONT> to wring your **** out to 8200rpm to get anywhere is utterly rediculous. I'll take an LS or GSR engine in an EM1 any day of the week. Torque moves you: HP carries torque.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Horsepower = the actual work torque does. HP doesn't simply "carry torque"

Just think of it this way. You buy an ITR. Decide you want a CR/VTEC setup. So you rip out your c5 only to basically take away a big part of the reason as to WHY that's an ITR in the first place. I feel the same way as to why buy an Si just to pull the engine? You can have a b16a2 bored and built for about hte same cost of buying a swap and doing an ls/vtec, can't you?

 

yea it makes sense i think b16 are not fast untill u built the motor and ls is my kind of motor it has no vtec but it sure do got torque

 

why does it even matter though?

You dont buy a itr for the c5. You buy a ITR for the body, and for the fact that its an R. Theres alot of options that are R only, like interior and trans, not to mention the suspension.

Motors vary.

Ill be posting pics soon.

 

Like I said, it's just my personal opinion. Opinions vary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like I said, it's just my personal opinion. Opinions vary. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No doubt. Totally understood.

I am once again just using this as a spare motor just to DRIVE the car, not worry bout how fast it is or not. I will use my c5 for that in a few months...

 

Just used your B18b as for a temp on your car Ben

 

Ben..run an OBD2 (ls dizzy) so u don't have to change the plugs. do not hack the ears off your current one!..

If u have no choice but to use an OBD1 for now depin out of the single OBD2 plug and repin into the 2 OBD1 plugs..u may have to cut and solder the thick blk/y and dark blue wire (because the gauge sizes change and pin sizes might be different)

use the obd2 injectors and alternator off of the c5 ..this is so no wiring needs to be hacked, since this is a temp job.

u shouldn't have a knock sensor on the obd1 ls block..its a single wire plug (from the harness)..u can ground it for now and then re attach the plug later when u need to plug it in..

everything else should plug up except the crank fluc. sensor on the oil pump..which u can drive without till u get your other motor together..

the above info is assuming your still using the si ecu..the car will run slightly rich and u will get a **** load of codes lol (crank fluc/vtc/ vtc op/2nd o2) but u will be able to get back and forth to work

If u convert to an OBD1 ls ecu u shouldn't get any codes..

give me a call if u need any help

if i forgot anything someone correct me..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SYD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ben..run an OBD2 (ls dizzy) so u don't have to change the plugs. do not hack the ears off your current one!..

If u have no choice but to use an OBD1 for now depin out of the single OBD2 plug and repin into the 2 OBD1 plugs..u may have to cut and solder the thick blk/y and dark blue wire (because the gauge sizes change and pin sizes might be different)

use the obd2 injectors and alternator off of the c5 ..this is so no wiring needs to be hacked, since this is a temp job.

u shouldn't have a knock sensor on the obd1 ls block..its a single wire plug (from the harness)..u can ground it for now and then re attach the plug later when u need to plug it in..

everything else should plug up except the crank fluc. sensor on the oil pump..which u can drive without till u get your other motor together..

the above info is assuming your still using the si ecu..the car will run slightly rich and u will get a **** load of codes lol (crank fluc/vtc/ vtc op/2nd o2) but u will be able to get back and forth to work

If u convert to an OBD1 ls ecu u shouldn't get any codes..

give me a call if u need any help

if i forgot anything someone correct me..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell yea! The info i was looking for. Im glad you replied bro.

 

 

Go ahead and Put the LS in the car, its a great i idea. By doing this you now how so much more to work with then the b16. If the time comes when your tired of just the LS you can now do an ls vtec conversion.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPNFEDEJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

true, why spend all that money for a SI, when u could have bought the same exact car for like 6 grand less or something, a EX or even a DX, and through a motor in there, but IMO i hate b16s TQ, with a passion, that's why i went with LS, sucks can't reach to 8200 or whatever, but some cams and valve train will help that.

good numbers by the way on 7lbs </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i could understand this comment like 5 years ago when the car cost 17-18 grand bran new , but not 5-6 years later when you can a clean stock one for 7-8 thousand. The car is not that expensive anymore. There are many differences from and SI ,EX, . You have to remember its not just the b16 that your getting. What ever happen to his b16 whats not blown is still good, he now as spare injectors, dizzy, tranny, shift linkage, alternator, and the list goes on. Look at the Si body compared to an Ex front lip ,side skirts ,fog lights rear wing, and the wheels. Also with Si you get standard rear disc. If you go to the interior the seats Gage cluster shift ****,floor mats, CD player and yes this because it lights up amber and not green. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO swapping anything into an Si is a waste of purchasing an Si in the first place. If the motor blew, I can understand it... but I see people selling perfectly good b16a2s they've ripped out.

I can understand the want for more torque, but wtf did you buy a goddamn Si if you knew you were going to want a larger engine with more torque?

As long as I own my car it will have a stamp that says B16a2 on the engine block.

It might not be 1595 cc's, but it'll still be a b16a2.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet not. And why does it matter so much about it saying b16?