My DIY trunk bar pics inside
I had two, but I keep selling them faster than I can make them.
These trunk bars made a significant difference in the handling of my car. Very noticalbe, I'm am extremely happy with the results
Click on picture for full size

Edit:
I have been getting a lot of questions about these trunk bars.
So Im gonna try to write a how to.
The thread pitch for the bolts you need is 12mm x 1.25.
They can be hard to find, I had to go to a half a dozen hardware stores to find them.
If you use the mounting location circled in red you will need 2 inch long bolts as the stock ones are too short. If you use the mounting locations circled in blue you will need 3 inch long bolts; this location is recessed, and the bolt is covered by a plastic cap.
Red mounting location will require 4 or 5 washers to space out the bar, again the hole is rescessed. Make sure to put one washer onto of the bar.
Blue mounting location will require a lot more washers, I don't recall off the top of my head but i think it was 12 or 13 washers, this hole is much more reccesed. Make sure to put a washer on top of the bar too.
You do not have to drill anything onto the car.
You will need 3/4" or 1" box steel or aluminum
I reccomend 1" box aluminum as it is light and stiff
Home depot carries 4ft long sections
you will need to drill two holes aproximately 91cm apart
It is also a good idea to cut off the excess material off the sides
a 1/2" drill bit is perfect size for the holes.
Make sure to grease the threads, so you don't strip it out
also helps to have a punch, so the drill bit doesnt skip around when to try to drill the holes
I currently have bars in both locations, I have no new pictures, I'll try to get some new pics ( I don't own a digicam)
Some people have had no luck finding the bolts.
For those people I can send you some bolts.
$5 each with a flat rate shipping of $5.
I know this may sound high, but I'm not really making any money on these.
The bolts are very expensive, First off they are grade 8, the highest strength/quality. Secondly metric bolts are just more expensive then their standard counterparts.
[Modified by Dan GSR, 6:20 PM 2/5/2003]
Modified by Dan GSR at 12:05 AM 3/11/2004
These trunk bars made a significant difference in the handling of my car. Very noticalbe, I'm am extremely happy with the results
Click on picture for full size

Edit:
I have been getting a lot of questions about these trunk bars.
So Im gonna try to write a how to.
The thread pitch for the bolts you need is 12mm x 1.25.
They can be hard to find, I had to go to a half a dozen hardware stores to find them.
If you use the mounting location circled in red you will need 2 inch long bolts as the stock ones are too short. If you use the mounting locations circled in blue you will need 3 inch long bolts; this location is recessed, and the bolt is covered by a plastic cap.
Red mounting location will require 4 or 5 washers to space out the bar, again the hole is rescessed. Make sure to put one washer onto of the bar.
Blue mounting location will require a lot more washers, I don't recall off the top of my head but i think it was 12 or 13 washers, this hole is much more reccesed. Make sure to put a washer on top of the bar too.
You do not have to drill anything onto the car.
You will need 3/4" or 1" box steel or aluminum
I reccomend 1" box aluminum as it is light and stiff
Home depot carries 4ft long sections
you will need to drill two holes aproximately 91cm apart
It is also a good idea to cut off the excess material off the sides
a 1/2" drill bit is perfect size for the holes.
Make sure to grease the threads, so you don't strip it out
also helps to have a punch, so the drill bit doesnt skip around when to try to drill the holes
I currently have bars in both locations, I have no new pictures, I'll try to get some new pics ( I don't own a digicam)
Some people have had no luck finding the bolts.
For those people I can send you some bolts.
$5 each with a flat rate shipping of $5.
I know this may sound high, but I'm not really making any money on these.
The bolts are very expensive, First off they are grade 8, the highest strength/quality. Secondly metric bolts are just more expensive then their standard counterparts.
[Modified by Dan GSR, 6:20 PM 2/5/2003]
Modified by Dan GSR at 12:05 AM 3/11/2004
I've started a trend
That looks like aluminum... nice
I was going to make some up, but the MC Brace production is keeping me busy enough.
That looks like aluminum... nice
I was going to make some up, but the MC Brace production is keeping me busy enough.
click sig 
I'm just now getting things going with them...by the end of the month I'll have printed directions and the like for the "total package," but you can order them standalone now (installation is easy).

I'm just now getting things going with them...by the end of the month I'll have printed directions and the like for the "total package," but you can order them standalone now (installation is easy).
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bar is made out of 1 inch box aluminum
i can definetly feel a difference in the handling of the car
everyone i've sold the bars to also say it makes a dramatic difference
my friend even said it made a bigger difference than his rear strut tower bar...and for less $$
i can definetly feel a difference in the handling of the car
everyone i've sold the bars to also say it makes a dramatic difference
my friend even said it made a bigger difference than his rear strut tower bar...and for less $$
ok from comparing the one in your picture with the one from the website link, it appears yours is bolted to the floor of the trunk, and the one off the site is bolted to the wall, which is more effective, and with yours, is the spare tire board cover raised at the end because of it?
i personally feel that my method is more effective
just because it bolts directly into the two rails of the frame
unlike the itr which bolts to tabs that are connected to the rails of the car
I can't tell if it raises the spare cover, if it does, its not noticeable at all
just because it bolts directly into the two rails of the frame
unlike the itr which bolts to tabs that are connected to the rails of the car
I can't tell if it raises the spare cover, if it does, its not noticeable at all
I made my own a few months ago. Definetly a fun project to do.
I noticed after putting the bar on, that the sound deadening tar beneath where the bar is mounted has started to crack. Meaning the rear bar is doing its job keeping the rear rigid.
I noticed after putting the bar on, that the sound deadening tar beneath where the bar is mounted has started to crack. Meaning the rear bar is doing its job keeping the rear rigid.
Home depot 1inch aluminum box 4ft wide
2x 2 or 3 inch long bolts (depending where u put the bar, 2" for the front, 3" for the back) thread pitch is 12mm x 1.25
A bunch of washers to space out the bar since the hole is recessed
Tools you will need
Hacksaw
Drill
3/4 inch drill bit
Ratchet along with sockets ( I belive I used 17mm and 19mm)
Measuring tape
Punch
2x 2 or 3 inch long bolts (depending where u put the bar, 2" for the front, 3" for the back) thread pitch is 12mm x 1.25
A bunch of washers to space out the bar since the hole is recessed
Tools you will need
Hacksaw
Drill
3/4 inch drill bit
Ratchet along with sockets ( I belive I used 17mm and 19mm)
Measuring tape
Punch
can you hook us up with a list of hardware needed. i think i can take it from there. just want to know if the bolts need to be replace with longer ones and if so what length to get. thanks
au-gsr look up
yes you will need longer bolts, the stock bolts won't even come close to reaching
you will also need a lot of washers
if you put the bar in the front only bout 6 washers per side
if you put the bar in the back; about 13 washers per side
I use grade 8 bolts because they are the strongest
yes you will need longer bolts, the stock bolts won't even come close to reaching
you will also need a lot of washers
if you put the bar in the front only bout 6 washers per side
if you put the bar in the back; about 13 washers per side
I use grade 8 bolts because they are the strongest
dan what the hell is the punch for? to get a starter dimple in the bar to drill the hole? or is it for gauging out the eyes of the idiot standing behind you giving play by play commentary on the install?
i went to home depot yesterday and bought what i could off of the parts link from the list...but the home depot i went to didnt have the black plastic end caps...and had very little stainless steel hardware...
...i bought the steel bar because the parts list said to pick it up...but i see in your pics its the alunimum bar...which one is better?...the steel bar is dirty and prone to rust but isnt it more rigid?
...i bought the steel bar because the parts list said to pick it up...but i see in your pics its the alunimum bar...which one is better?...the steel bar is dirty and prone to rust but isnt it more rigid?



