cant decide DAMN!
alright, i cant friggin decide what to do with my tax return. both options are very tempting.
option 1 - all motor
intake
headers
high flow cat
already have the exhaust
cam gears
cams
pullies
VAFC
option 2 - BOOST BABY
but if i go boost, it will be a low ammount of boost, like 7 PSI.
option 1 - all motor
intake
headers
high flow cat
already have the exhaust
cam gears
cams
pullies
VAFC
option 2 - BOOST BABY
but if i go boost, it will be a low ammount of boost, like 7 PSI.
all motor....why? reliability, less cost less headache and you still get decent gains..sure boost is great, when you car runs
and if you boost you can not do it half assed, or you will just flush money down the *******.
If you are a decent driver, you can beat most cars anyway.
and if you boost you can not do it half assed, or you will just flush money down the *******.
If you are a decent driver, you can beat most cars anyway.
If money is a factor, then all motor. I am not saying NA is cheap, but it's cheaper than FI. More parts are required to support FI.
I chose to keep my car NA because I'm going to college soon and don't need the reliability issues of a boosted car in college.
i would say that price is the main issue. i hate doing **** half assed, so if i do go boost then it will either be such a low ammount that it wont make much differance till oct when i can get the rest, or just not put it on till then. most likely the latter. but also i dont want my car in the shop all the time cause i put boost on a car thats ment for N/A. i got about a month to make my final decision.
you say that now...but when other things come up, you end up not finishing your build, then you have a half assed build up before you know it.
Its also more fulfilling for me, when you beat someone and they ask..whatcu got??
you reply i/h/e...they get angry...nothing better.
Its also more fulfilling for me, when you beat someone and they ask..whatcu got??
you reply i/h/e...they get angry...nothing better.
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He listed the parts he wants for NA. You add up the list and get any turbo list and see which costs more. Who said anything about same power for NA and turbo? So I say again, if money is a factor and since you don't want to do a half *** job on anything, I'd say stay NA. The parts you listed will be ~$1900 to $2000 plus install and tuning. You can't get a kit for that amount let alone the gauges, injectors, boost controller, some type of fmu, etc (yeah I know some kits come with some of the listed parts but you get the idea).
boost!!!
anyone that says n/a for reliabilty is wrong. things will go wrong just as easy w/both routes if not done propley. just as it will be just as reliable if done properly eathier way.
plus i had the same descion to make, but i was going all out. eathier boost of na/n20. in the looong run it will cost about the same or more for n/a. difference is boost you can get in sections and still see gains. not to say you must buy all na parts at once, but the ones you can buy in pieces yield low gains for the money...like a header for 500 bucks gets you 5 whp, wow.
you can have a good reliable 7 psi setup for under 3k.
turbo kit for 2400
hondata w/boost-less then 500.
both from 2k_teg
w/hondata and 7 psi you should see around 225-250whp, thats a gain of 65-90 whp.
try getting 90 whp for 3 grand na
anyone that says n/a for reliabilty is wrong. things will go wrong just as easy w/both routes if not done propley. just as it will be just as reliable if done properly eathier way.
plus i had the same descion to make, but i was going all out. eathier boost of na/n20. in the looong run it will cost about the same or more for n/a. difference is boost you can get in sections and still see gains. not to say you must buy all na parts at once, but the ones you can buy in pieces yield low gains for the money...like a header for 500 bucks gets you 5 whp, wow.
you can have a good reliable 7 psi setup for under 3k.
turbo kit for 2400
hondata w/boost-less then 500.
both from 2k_teg
w/hondata and 7 psi you should see around 225-250whp, thats a gain of 65-90 whp.
try getting 90 whp for 3 grand na
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This guys a genius
all motor....why? reliability, less cost less headache and you still get decent gains..sure boost is great, when you car runs
and if you boost you can not do it half assed, or you will just flush money down the *******.
If you are a decent driver, you can beat most cars anyway.
and if you boost you can not do it half assed, or you will just flush money down the *******.
If you are a decent driver, you can beat most cars anyway.
fastlude22- im sticking with the stock ecu. from all that i have read, if i get a hondata, i loose atts. that is why i said a low ammount of boost as well. because i dont want to hit 280 whp and then just defeat the purpose of spending the extra money for the SH model. otherwise i would say screw it and go high boost and live with my car being in the shop all the time.
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defeat the purpose of spending the extra money for the SH model. otherwise i would say screw it and go high boost and live with my car being in the shop all the time.
yeah, i should have done my homework better... but hey, thats life. i am thinking all motor. although you are right boosted.... there is no replacement for displacement. unless its boost. but i could always drive my buddies wrx for that.
who knows. still got 2 weeks to decide.
thanks for the input guys.
Doug
who knows. still got 2 weeks to decide.
thanks for the input guys.
Doug
there is no replacement for displacement. unless its boost.
Doug
Doug
Take your SH to the track where it belongs ...A damn monkey can drive straightline, there is very little skill involved in that.
you paid the extra money for ATTS now use it...it is more fun IMO to take hairpin @60 than it is to do 120 in a straight.
there are my .04cents..
i would love to. im not a bad driver by any means. and i would love to take it to a real street track, just need to practice more at things like hairpins and all that jazz. you are right, 120 (or 60) around a hairpin is sweet !!
boost is dangerous but fun...first if your thinkin boost..be smart build your motor for turbo...get everything upgraded....then go boost...so that will cost u aloot more...all motor is alot safer....turbo can kill an engine...my friend just canceled his turbo upgrade becuz he didn't have built internals and found it to be pointless becuz his motor wouldn't last long with the turbo
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the best thing about going in a straight line IMO, is getting to tell everyone how fast your straight line time is. auto-x/road racing is where the real accomplishement is, but by saying you ran X amount of seconds on an auto-x course is no big deal, b/c they all vary, but when you say you ran a 10sec 1/4 mile, everyone knows how long that is, and how fast that is
it is more fun IMO to take hairpin @60 than it is to do 120 in a straight.
120 in a hairpin is like 10,000 times better than either of the previously mentioned
120 in a hairpin is like 10,000 times better than either of the previously mentioned
...I was trying to make sure no one kills themselves
i dont want to hit 280 whp and then just defeat the purpose of spending the extra money for the SH model. otherwise i would say screw it and go high boost and live with my car being in the shop all the time.
But since your on a budget..which is a good thing..go N/A...you wont be dissapointed....nothing like telling someone that you beat them with just I/H/E/P...hehe
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damn you Sam, always taking things to extremes
...I was trying to make sure no one kills themselves
...I was trying to make sure no one kills themselves


