Im a car boy, i got a eg hatch with the swap and turbo and all that
**** but i want to buy me a bike when i get my tax return in a few
months. here is my questions , what is a decent bike to learn on
that can be got for fairly cheap, what should i look for when i buy one
and anyother thing i should know before i go onward in buying this .

 

Decent bike for the money is a early 90's Yamaha FZR 600 Usually find nice ones around 2 or 3k.

 

I agree

 

a really good bike to learn on is a 99 honda cbr 600...oh what do ya know..i'm selling mine!

 

any pics of any of these? thanks

 

FZR: http://www.fzrarchives.com/FZR/fzr60...e/the_bike.htm

Chances are, if you're using your tax return and you want a CBR, you're going to be looking more in the range of a F2 than his F4.

F2: http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/013806/
F3: http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/000825/
F4: http://www.cbrworld.net/CBR600/1999us.htm

I tried to find pictures of the stock colors you're likely to see. If you do a web search, ignore any from overseas or canada, they get cooler color schemes than we do in the states


Edit: Btw, if you DO find an old FZR, try to take someone with you who knows bikes. Also, try to find one with the EXUP still on, and still working.

A lot of people swapped to full-systems and dropped the EXUP, and it really hurts your torque. Wana know if it's working? Down where the exhaust collector goes from a 4 into a 1 it forms a box. On the right side of that box is a valve with 2 stainless lines going to it. It should, in theory, be covored with a plate, but that usually gets pulled off and never reattached. Watching those lines, turn the bike on. the lines might adjust the valve at this point (if it was shut off when the bike was reved). Then rev the bike, and one line should pull the valve open (it's fully open around 5--6k), when you return the throttle to idle, the lines should pull the valve closed.

When I bought my FZR, the EXUP was sized (nobody had taken care of it .. most home mechanics don't know what the hell it is) and the valve was rigged to be fully open. I rode it like that while I waited on replacement parts. The day I fixed it and took it out I got a speeding ticket.. The power difference was THAT noticeable.




[Modified by project_mercy, 6:51 PM 1/16/2003]

 

Whats the genral price range for the CBR f2's in i guess the '94-'96 range
i just wanna get one to learn on for the next year of so till i can afford some-
thing with some real bigs "ones".thanks for all your help in advance agian.

 

I think '96 is an F3.

Either way, you can get a semi-acurate cost by going to http://www.nadaguides.com/

I'd expect to pay around $3k for a clean F2, and around $4 for a nice F3. Less if it's smote up.

The FZR is a lot cheaper.

If I had the choice between a clean F2 and a clean FZR, i'd probably take the F2. It would be a rough decision. The F3 is way better than both of them, suspension wise, so it wins, hands down. But then again, the F3 is more on par with the YZF600.

I will suggest you get the bike first before you worry about upgrading to "something with real big 'ones'" You'll be surprised at what the thing can do.


Edit: I don't use the word smote.. darn server..


[Modified by project_mercy, 11:29 PM 1/15/2003]

 

I'm sorry but I hardly understood anything you said.

 

Well, ignore the part about the EXUP unless you go buy an FZR. If you do, I suggest printing that out and bringing someone along with you that understands basic bike mechanics.

If it was something else you didn't understand, which part? I really am trying to help, I may just come off as retarded

You can always PM me if you have specific questions.

 

I agree on the FZR600...but I also recommend the CBR600's mid 1990's. Very strong bike but not ball-sy.

 

I'm selling my 99' CBR600f4 in red and black....5,500 w/ 7k miles mint condition.