I did a search and found a few topics but I still have a few questions: First, I noticed that some said that the Ingalls kit can cause rubbing inside the fender well? What exactly causes this to occur? Would I have to be pretty low for this to happen? I plan on running 16's eventually, so will I run into this problem? Also, how hard is it to align the camber yourself? Or do I just eyeball it and then take it to an alignment shop right away? Last question I swear: Is this install easy and is there a better diagram on the net than what the kit comes with? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just not very familiar with camber kits. Thanks very much.

 

i think you would have to be pretty low to rub your camber kit. i would think the larger the wheel would make it less of a problem but i could be wrong on that.

def take it to an alignment shop. you will eat through your front two tires in less than 2 months if you dont.

the install is pretty easy.

 

cool, anyone know of a link or site that has good instructions on the install?

 

This should give you a pretty good idea of what is involved...

http://www.deepstaged.net/ingalls_ca...it_install.htm

I've never done this myself, but I'll be doing it next weekend on my '90 Si. Post back here after that if you need additional info and I'll share what I find out.

 

any particular reason why you're wanting to install this camber kit? I have the same springs as you and am actually lower than you in the back (due to my Koni spring perches), and I do not have any sort of camber kit. My tires sit with about -2.1 to -2.3 deg. camber all around.



My car has been like this for 25K miles now, and my current tires now have 40K miles on them, with no really abnormal tire wear whatsoever. All you need is a good alignment where the toe-in is set to exact (and I mean EXACT) factory specs. If you don't install the kit, you won't have to worry about anything rubbing, control arms hitting the inner fender, excessive squeeking, possibly slipping out of adjustment, whatever.


[Modified by PatrickGSR94, 1:44 AM 1/11/2003]

 

Patrick, what tires is your teg sitting on?

My car is also lowered on H&R Sports <U>without</U> any camber correction kits. No camber problems visable. I also rotate my tires every 3000 Miles.

 

I see your point. When I got my last alignment (7-8-02), my rear tires were within spec, and both front were -.8 out of spec. So they were both at -2.0. I wasn't gonna put the kits on cuz I didn't think that was grossly out of spec, but I think my car has settled since then (could be my imagination) and I didn't know if this would throw it further out of spec, to the point that it was bad for the tires. Of course, I haven't taken off my tires to look, which would be the smart thing to do So I'll probably do that first and then decide. I just hate having the kit and spending the money on it and never putting it on. I could always sell it I guess.

 

pat...i guess my alignment went wrong or something...i am on h&r sport as well...and my camber wear on the kumhos is quite bad...ive obviously mentioned this to you a hundred times by now.

why do you suppose my wear is so bad? i have an ingalls camber kit sitting around, but if you think a simple alignment will do it, perhaps ill sell it.

 

make sure the alignment is done correctly. The toe on the rear tires must be adjusted first (because changing the rear also changes the front, don't ask me how or why, it just does). Then the front has to be adjusted and aligned with the rear. Make sure it is done on a laser alignment machine where devices are attached to each wheel that can measure everything in relationship to each other.

My tires are Nankang EX500, V-rated 320 treadwear. It was the only thing I could get locally at the time that my parents would pay for (since they offered), but I have been VERY pleased with them, both in wet and dry performance, as well as wear. The only thing I don't like is the specified 35psi max cold pressure, which makes me a little nervous when I run 40 in them at autox.

 

The link for the instructions are not entirely accurate for an integra. You don't need to disassemble the upper ball joint to do this. In a nut shell...

IMPORTANT: Before you begin, measure the distance from the center of your rims to the fender directly above while the car is on the ground. I’ll explain in a minute, but do this!

1. Remove the strut assembly.
2. Loosen (don't remove), the fasteners that secure the a-arm to the a-arm mounts (This will make them easier to remove later).
3. Support the upper a-arm (with string or zip-ties through the chassis strut holes), and remove the chassis mounting bolts for the a-arm mounts.
4. Swing the a-arm around for access to fully remove the mounts.
5. Remove the ‘bridge’ between the a-arm mounts and you’re done.

When you are reinstalling, Install the a-arm mounts onto the a-arm but DO NOT TIGHTEN. Install and secure the a-arm to the chassis with the a-arm mounting bolts loose.
Before you install the strut assembly, jack up the hub to the normal ride height (measure for the hub center to the fender). Once it’s at the ride height, then torque the a-arm mounting bolts. This will clamp the system together in it’s ‘home’ position. If you tighten the a-arm bolts up with the suspension hanging, you will effectively bind the bushing with the car is lowered and the a-arm moves up to it’s home position.
Once the a-arm’s are torqued in their normal position, drop the hub back down and install the strut assembly. You can't do the previous step with the strut installed because the strut is in the way.

NOTE: The 'bridge' between the two mounts takes a little persuading to remove. Take your time. I did my best to eye-ball the location of the bushing relative to the chassis stud. I then took it to an alignment shop asap.

Let me know if you need more details.

 

Are you talking about jacking up the suspension just to tighten the bolts that hold the upper control arm to the shock tower? The bolts/nuts holding the upper arm to the body should not affect the bolts that pass through the bushings on the upper arm. If what you said were true, then the bushings would bind as the suspension moves up and down during normal driving, which I don't think happens.

 

No. With the suspension lifted, you want to tighten the bolts that hold secure the Ingalls mount to the a-arms.
- Install the mounts onto the a-arms, but do not tighten.
- Swing the a-arm and mounts around, and install it into the chassis at the strut tower, and torque.
- Jack up the suspension to the ride height, and THEN torque the bolts securing the Ingalls mount to the a-arm.

Think of it this way… The rubber (or poly) isolates the bolt from the mounting, and allows one to move relative to the other. However, there is still an ‘at rest’ position for the system. If there was not ‘at rest’ position, then you would be able to spin the bushing freely like a bearing. With this in mind it’s best to bolt the system up while it’s in it’s normal operating location. This way your suspension travel is centered around the at home position.

I got this from talking to Todd at Ingalls when I was trying to diagnose why I was having noise problems with one side of the car. The kit I had was the rubber bushing kit, but I was still chasing the squeaks.

Let me know if you need more.