Just wanted to let you all know I think I have an EGR By-Pass check engine by-pass working. I did it in two stages (figured don't do both if I don't have to). With even only the first stage done, the CEL didn't come on with a little over 150 miles of driving. I figured that wasn't quite enough to call it a fix, so I did the second stage tonight and will let you all know if it works. It's a rather eazy fix *IF* this does infact hold up like my thinking should. I'm taking another rather long trip tonight so I'll let you all know how it hangs in! I just wanted to inform all of you i might have found a way to remove all of the EGR components w/o getting a CEL!

BTW> for anyone who might want to try or build off of what i've tried so far, it's as i said above rather simple. Ohm out the selenoid on the drivers side of the engine, the one controlling the vaccuum to the actual EGR. Mine read about 60 (though I believe any load in about that range will work fine.. such as a 160 ohm resistor). Connect it across the wires, and remove the selenoid setup. Next, the EGR plug its self (this is what i called the 2nd part). You have to do a little calculating with this one. The ohms between the pinkish wire and green wire are around 2.2K Ohms. The green to yellow is about 4.2K Ohms, and the pink to yellow is around 3.2K Ohms. The plug connects into what appears to be just a POT that adjusts as the EGR opens. if you work it out and get about these resistances between these wires, the computer should think the EGR its self is still plugged in. If you can't get it right wiring the resistors yourself, you should be able to use a POT (potentiometer, or also known as a variable resistor) to do the work for you. I'm about to test my setup out in about 10 minutes.. I'll let you know how it turns out!


[Modified by rjr162, 2:12 AM 1/7/2003]

 

all i did was unplug my harness...unplugged and plugged up vac lines and cut my memory line on my ecu....no codes... plus it helps with odb2 walk around stuff...

 

The 5th Gen ECU also uses the MAP sensor to verify proper EGR activation. Why not just do the OBDII workaround, cut the backup power? Also why do you want to get rid of the EGR at all, it doesn't activate at WOT, you're not going to get any performance out of it.

 

because that's too easy plus i know i'd forget to flip the switch should an error code come up, which means I'd never have it saved to recall later. For me, this is an easier solution (plus i love trying to solve problems like this)


[Modified by rjr162, 3:14 AM 1/7/2003]