For those of you that have MPFI swaps, how much did it cost you to get done? I'm looking for any advice. Those who did it themselves, got it done by someone on the side, and got it done in a shop.

 

i hear its like driving a new car from the MPFI swap, and easy and cheap too. i've never done this because i have no need, but there's been gobs of threads on this allready and many people have done it here. talk to Thumpu77 about it, he seems to be the most knowledgable on the topic.

 

What do you want to know about it? I've done a few MPFI swaps. Its easy to do yourself.

 

I have an 89 Civic that I use as a winter beater. I bought it for $200 and the body was near perfect but the motor was on it's last leg. I swapped in a 00 D16Y7 and converted it to MPFI. It runs solid and gets good gas mileage as well. These are some of the commonly used parts and are fairly easy to come by:

ECU - 88-91 CRX/Civic Si PM6
Injectors - 88-91 CRX/Civic Si or 90-91 Integra
Distributor - 88-91 CRX Si, HF / Civic Si
MPFI intake manifold - most 88-00 Civic / CRX / Del Sol D series
Injector resistor box
Injector plugs, distributor plugs, extra wire and pins

 

im actually right in the middle of mine and its fairly easy, if only i had the person here to do my wiring i could get it done tonight but oh well.

 

I did the swap myself. Here's the parts i used with prices:

91 CRX PM6 ECU - $70
89 Civic Si distributor - $50
95 Civic EX complete intake manifold - $90
91 Integra LS injectors, wire harness, resistor box - $35
Total cost = $215 and well worth it

 

did it my self stole **** from my friends blown d16a6 after he got his zc so free

 

$250is about right if you are doing it yourself, but if you dont have the resources or the know how $500 installed is not a bad deal in any way. since all you would have to do is drop the car off and pick it up when it is done, and if there any problems you take it back and it gets fixed. there are soo many posts about "i did my own swap and now it doesnt rev past 3000 rpm or it wont start or....etc. true it is easy if you know what you are doing and have done it before but most people dont know or dont care to take the time to do it themselves.

 

Here's my standard write-up that I cut and paste on most people's MPFI swap questions:

The MPFI swap is the best mod you can do to your car short of an entire engine swap. and if you do want to do an engine swap, you have to do an MPFI swap anyway. Our cars come from the factory with 70 crank HP, the MPFI swap pushes us up to somewhere around (this is a guess) 110. Plus, with the larger throtle body, your car will be more responsive to other mods like I/H/E and cam. the DFPI TB is so restrictive, it bottlenecks the air flow so much that any other mod you do doesn't really do any good.

parts needed:
I recomend getting all of these parts from an 88-91 civic EX or Si, or CRX Si (I've been told that the CRX Intake manifold doesn't flow as well, never saw proof though) There are some other options, but for simplicity, it's best to get it all from one of these. also, If you have a manual trans, get the parts from a manual trans donor car (and auto for auto) I got my parts off of Ebay, a couple of broken sensors and bad parts cost me in the long run.

1. Intake manifold with Injectors, Throtle body, and all sensors intact
2. Injector resistor box
3. ECU
4. Distributor (the EX/Si dizzy has an extra sensor in it that you will need)
5. engine wire harness (you'll need to steal some plugs off of this)
6. New intake manifold gasket (if the TB or any sensor gets removed, it will need a new gasket as well)
7. New Injector seals (If the new intake mani has been sitting for a period of time, the old seals will probably be dried out and leak)
8. New Cap and rotor (if you recently replaced yours, the cap, rotor, coil, and Ignitor from your old distributor will all fit the new one)

The swap is easy to do, an experianced mechanic could knock it out in less than a day. Be prepared to have your car down for a week just in case there's some bugs to work out though. You never know when you're using used parts, don't get stranded!!

The mechanical stuff is pretty basic, especially if you have a Helms manual. (I did it with a Haynes manual because I'm too cheap to buy a Helms) The only thing I can say is make sure everything is clean and seals properly. When I did the swap on my car, The bracket that holds the back of the manifold up was bent, it was pushing up on the back of the mani and it wasn't allowing the gasket to seal properly. I also had problems with my injector seals leaking and the distributor had a bad ignitor.

The part where most people struggle is the wiring, your current setup only has wires for 2 injectors, you'll need to run wires for 2 more. Also, you need to run wires for that new sensor in the distributor I mentioned above. the best write up I've seen on this is:
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/4gdxtozc.html
When I did my swap, I did all of the wiring with NO splices under the hood. Everything looks completely factory. I Just wish I took pictures of the process.

The only downside about the swap is, because you are using a 1.6l ECU on a 1.5l engine, the car will run rich. It's not a big problem, just a little smoke, and can be fixed using an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator. by turning down the fuel pressure, you can lean the system.


I will add that the difference was night and day, I just wish I had gotten my GTech Pro sooner so I could have some baseline #'s to show the difference.

 

took me 20 minutes to do the wiring after the 2 hours of wrench time (bull shitting most of the time....) was not hard even though ive been working on cars since i was 12 which helps i guess....stock std ran 19s with the 4 speed and the 70 hp now it runs 15.2 with a dx trans and the y7 head and mpfi header stock si exhaust and an intake so its deffinately worth the $$ i spent 100 for the head and head bolts from the 99 dx its a pretty good head for the $$ i got it for ups compression and it flows better than the a6 head has no vtec to deal with and is the same head as the z6 but no vtec and gude makes a cam for as well as another company in WA state

 

cool, now I have a baseline to compare my 17.5 to.
So, there you go... 1.5 seconds shaved off of 1/4 mi times just from MPFI swap alone! and that's not accounting for my horrible driving skills and the fact that I ran that time on wet pavement instead of at a track!!

 

i wouldnt take that as a time gtech sucks alot really get to the track and see ur 60 ft times they will make or break ur 1/4 mile time....with the 15.2 i did a 2.0 60ft time which is about the best u can do alot of the time a hit a 2.1 ad runa 15.4

 

Im also thinking about doing the MPFI swap, I contacted inlinefour.com and told me $450 labor and wiring without parts. Anybody know any shops that wont try to rip me butt hole apart around L.A. I'll really appreciate if you guys would recommend a shop for me. Thanks