I've recently changed my mind from swapping a B18C in my Civic DX and I'm selling the car to get an 89 CRX DX.

I'm thinking of swapping the B18C5 in the CRX to get the most possible out of the engine swap without internal work. My main goal is to track racing, so ground clearance might be an issue. Neuspeed Race is my selection of springs.

Anyone's done it before? And how did it turn out? Thanks!

P.S. What's a good CRX ressource msg board?

 

a good crx msg. board. - Your on it

Ground clearence shouldnt be a problem with the neuspeed springs. but if your going into do some racing dont you think you want somthing a little stiffer?

 

I don't know what's stiff then Neuspeed Race? H&R Race maybe? Eibach sporlines?

As for the swap itself - shouldn't be a problem with ground clearance at all? What about hood clearance?

 

this question is right up my alley.
i have a 90 Dx with a B18C5 engine and Neuspeed race springs.
I also have Koni adjustable struts which I highly recomend, specially if you are going to do racing that involves turning.
My car has a bout 1/2" gap between the fender and the top of the tire.
I don't have any problems ground clearance wise, I go over speed bumps w/o scraping. I did set the car lower with the Konis, since you can adjust the ride hight by moving a ring on the body of the strut. About hood clearance, I have Haspot mounyts and I did have to cut the under hood support to make room for the valve cover. i now have a JDm front end, and the hood leaves plenty of space for the engine.
I know a lot of people will tell you that the C5 engine is too heavy for the car and such, but after almost a year of driving the car, I can tell you is not true.
Handling is awesome, you do have to play with the suspension/camber kit and good tires are a must. It's not fun to sit there spining the tires throught the first three gears.
Good luck

 

Thanks very much for your post. It's exactly what I wanted to know.

 

wiring will be fun! keepin it non obd? or going to obd2?

Blaze

 

good crx board?... resource.crx.org and crxohio.org are some other good ones, although the resource is down

 

Eseiest would be OBD0, but if you want to make anykind of real power from that motor, convert to OBD1.

 

Good luck with your project and use your existing harness and the OBD2 ECU if you can't find an ITR wiring scheme and harness. You do have the ITR ignition key along with the ECU? Without it the ECU is rendered useless!

I recommend a firm lower tie bar to protect your engine bcause it is going to sit really low in the bay.

I got this aluminium one (hollow) and saved my exhaustline quite some times already



B18c6 fitted




[Modified by REX VT, 12:01 PM 1/5/2003]


[Modified by REX VT, 12:01 PM 1/5/2003]

 

I don't agree with that.
i have had quite a bit of experience with B18C5s and OBD0.
I have that engine and a PR3 ECU with the Mugen program. I see stock ITRs put down anywhere from 165 to 170 Hp. I have seen them with OBDI convertions and they don't do much better either. My engine with OBD0 puts down 182 HP. My friend John with a PR3 ECu and Mugen program, plus JUN stage 3s puts down 200.8 HP. I don't see the disadvantages!
I think it's all in the tunning, and how good a tuner you are.

I forgot to add, these numbers are on stock bottom ends, with the stock USDM compression pistons.


[Modified by Spaceballs the lunch box, 7:52 AM 1/5/2003]

 

What injectors are you using then ? Because the injectors used for a B16a1 are totally different from the ones used in a b18c5/6...

 

Different in the way they work.
OBD0 are low resistance peak and hold, while OBD1 and 2 are saturated type injectors.
Otherwise, thay have the exact same flow rate.

By the way, I am using JDM B16 injectors

 

Correct all B series injectors are the same vtec or not. 240cc

 

The only reason I would consider converting to OBD1 is becuse they have better ECU option out there that would work better with the motor then just some everday chipped one. Plus if you really get into it, Hondata, AEM and other full tunible ECU's are OBD1.

I do agree, you can get some good power out of an PR3 or PWO, but your never going to get the FULL potential of the motor.

 

The big advantage of going with a later ECU is the greater number of options that you have. With an earlier ECU, your choices are either chipping it or Zdyne. Although Hondata does work with the PR3/PW0, I am not sure that Hondata can do everything with a PR3/PW0 that it can do with later ECUs (since even they recommend going with a 1992+ ECU over sticking with a pre-1992 ECU). Also, you can use AEMs unit with 1992+ wiring (but not 1988-1991 wiring).

 

Have you already bought or put down a deposit on this 1989 DX? If not, you might want to reconsider. If you are looking to get the best you can get from your car, you might want to consider something lighter. A 1988 HF, 1988 DX, or 1989 HF might be a better choice.

 

Yes I have considered my options. I don't wan an 88 because they have the passive rear steering feature which makes the car more rear-end happy and feels like you're loosing control when really, you are not. It's an un-natural feeling, my friend has an 88, and I don't really like it.

The older the CRX, the heavier they got. So the 89 is the next step. The reason I don't want an HF is beacause I heard they were made with lighter materials which impacted the car's rigidity all-together. Is that just a rumor?

There's not a HUGE difference between the DX and HF, and I can't really be picky, I need an 89 and the body has to be in mint shape - kinda hard to find here in Canada.

And yes I found one that I might pick up this weekend, the 89 CRX DX that is, as long as the body's in mint shape and the price is right.