Arright, this is some stuff that I have heard from other people and believed them but just wanted to make sure it was really true.

1. When it is cold outside, you should sit in your car and let the engine temperature rise to normal temperature before you pull off because just pulling off in a "cold" car will hurt the engine/car?

2. The air conditioner or the heater robs performance of the engine when it is running?

3. The 1994 honda civic, because it is an early civic, performs the best with the lowest octane gas possible, "89 i think"? If this is true, why does octane booster make my engine perform better?

4. Running electrical stuff in your car like the radio and speakers pulls from the current flowing through your car, therefore pulling from the current flowing to the sparkplugs, therefore pulls from your overall engine performance?

5. If you put and ecu in an automatic civic that raises your max rpm in certain gears, your car will perform better, be the engine stock or modified? If this is true, what's a good ecu for an automatic 1994 civic ex coupe?

Some of them might be stupid, but I honestly don't know the answer. Also I have two questions:
How do you make a the suspension on my car tight to the point where there is almost no body roll. I have ground control coilovers already and am looking for a good stiff shock. I figured I definately want a stiff suspension so should I still buy kyb agx adjustables. If not, what's a good shock? If I have an ex, will a type-r sway bar really show improvement?

Also, dumb question, I was watching this race of some inports on the speed channel last night, (sorry, can't remember the name of the race), but the cars had exhausts that came out of the side of the car like right under the drivers side door. Why was fire comming out of their exhaust? Like the others, dumb question, but I just don't know.


-= Gotta have that camera icon plus I need to buy a new deck anyway... =-

 

you might need a new deck,but alien workshop sUcKS!!

You need to buy a ShOrTY's...

MuSkA iS PiMp!!!!!!!

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Peace
Brian

 

1- its not really because its "cold" but because you have no oil pressure and the engine is not yet lubricated properly yet atleast thats how i understand it

2- the air conditioner does because its compressor is run by a belt but i dont think the heater does because it runs on coolant and the fan is electric the only side effect to sunning the heater would be making you coolent temp a tiny bit lower

3- i have no id, probably not

4- i dont know but it makes sense, kinda

5- i doubt any other AT ecu's will help you here convert to 5 speed

 

True and false. Honda recommends that you hold revs under 3000rpm until the engine is up to normal operating temperature. VTEC won't work until the ebgine is warm too.

True A/C - false heater.

You're probably experiencing the "placebo effect." You *think* the engine is running better, but do you have real proof in number at the dyno or strip?

False. Alternator should keep things in check. Stereo **** can drain the battery, which can drain the alternator, which can cause early "retirement" from it though. As far as directly effecting spark goes - that's highly unlikely.

False. Most ECUs control the automatic tranny, so what happens when you swap in an ECU that won't even look for your auto tranny? your 1994 Civic's auto tranny is controlled by it's auto P28 ECU. Throw in a rechipped manual ECU and your car won't shift. That would suck. Higher rpms don't equal better performance in most cases. You'd need a cam and better valvesprings to NEED a higher rev limit.

Some of them might be stupid, but I honestly don't know the answer. Also I have two questions:

KYB-AGX are great struts for the money. I've owned them and they were kick-*** and very stiff on the full-stiff setting.

As far as body roll goes, a rear ITR swaybar will help a lot since you already have a front swaybar being that you have an EX. Just be careful - that rear bar will change the handling a lot. Makes the *** end more squirrelly in corners.

Probably some really high hp boosted cars. With such fuel being delivered at high rates not all of it gets burned in the combustion chambers. Sometimes it can escape into the exhaust and experience a sort of "post detonation" effect and actually fire out of the exhaust.

Does any of that help?


-= Gotta have that camera icon plus I need to buy a new deck anyway... =-[/QUOTE]

 

1. True
2. True
3. It's a pshycological feeling. You feel your adding something to increase performance when you are really just making it harder to completly burn all of the fuel.
4. True and False....it pulls from your cars electrical but, the Alternator is more than strong enough to provide the juice needed for your ignition.
5. Depends on the powerband of your engine.

6. Add sway bars front and back.
7. Fire comes out of the exhaust because it's hot enough to ignite the un burned fuel when the gas pedal is released. They run a lot of fuel in those things.

 

Yea, the transmission swap is going to be done with an engine swap, all or none. And about your answer to #1, how long should you wait till you pull off then?

 

Thanks B18C5-EH2 for the detailed quick reply!!!

 

Also, thanks alot Spade, your always giving help on my posts.

 

You just wait until the needle starts to rise. As long as it's starting to move you are fine.....Keep it under 3000 until fully warm though.

 

I have read numerous times in different places that the best way to warm up your car is to drive it, not to let it warm up at idle.

 

I think that you misread and the best thing to do is have a load on it instead of revving it to 3000 to warm it up.

 

In the 98 prelude manual (sis has a prelude) it says 30 secs is enough at idle, then u just drive it around nicely until it fully warms up

 

Dam, that's it, I usually sit in the car till the needle starts moving and then stops a little less than half way.

Also, the EX has just a front swap bar? If so, guess it's time to get a rear ITR sway bar.

 

Also, the EX has just a front swap bar? If so, guess it's time to get a rear ITR sway bar.[/QUOTE]

i have an ex too, it came with a factory swaybar in the front that is a toothpick. i put in susp. techniques front bar 25mm, and the itr rear bar which is 22mm, the car is pretty neutral now. DO NOT just put in the rear sway bar w/out replacing your front........ you will crash and burn.

and if you have to do one first, do the front. and use some kind of subframe reinforcement for the rear (bsq or beaks kit). i warned you.

 

^^^ Good looking because that's what I was about to do. Thanks.

 

i've read that letting your car sit warming up actually creates more wear then starting it up and driving slowly, under 3k until fully warm. or let it sit there for at most, 30 seconds.

 

i forgot what the questions were now!

 

Sorry but that is total bullshit.

I run a 425F 550R spring combo with no front bar and a 14mm rear bar.

I don't crash and burn.

Adding just a big-*** front bar will make the car handle like 100% total ****.

I run no bar up front because I want my *** to wag. My car handles like a ******* dream.

It's just knowing your limits and not trying to be Mario Andretti on the streets.

I test my limits at auto-x and stay about 20% below those on the streets when "pushing" it.

The guys who "crash and burn" are at fault, not the damn big rear bar.

 

euclid why no rear without a front sway bar upgrade? Sure he is going to be makign the car more apt to oversteer but whats wrong with that? Besides his GCs are probably tougher on the fronts anyway a rear bar may just eliminate some of that understeer.

 

So just an ITR rear or replace the front too?

 

dont listen to any of these losers they have no idea what they are talking about, Consolidated boards are the best by far, if i wasnt hooked up by 145 and getting free 145 boards i would be riding consolidated only

 

I have an EK with no front and a rear 19mm Neuspeed sway, rear upper strutbar, and rear lower control arm bar.....

I have not crashed and burned in the 4 years I have owned my car....even after swaping in the C5.

I might add the smallest front sway possible just to balance the bigger rear but the toothpick EX front is fine.....25mm rear sway for you! (reinforce the rear with the beaks kit though!) lol

For the money you could buy Koni's and upgrade your GC spring rates....depending on the shock you order I think most "street" cars are running some pretty high spring rates with that combo.....be careful or the waggy tail....she bites when you least expect it....LSD and sticky fronts oWn jOO!

 

Arright, I guess I'll just focus on getting agx's so I can put the GC's on and put the agx's on the stiffist setting possible and seeing what it feels like.

 

The others are right on this. Its actually that there was not enough oxygen to burn all the fuel, and when the unburnt fuel stays hot enough, when it reaches the outside air it finds the oxygen it needs to finish burning the fuel and flames appear at your exhaust tip. If your exhaust is longer, it wont get as hot as the exit of the tailpipe and the unburnt fuel will not ignite.

 

"Also, dumb question, I was watching this race of some inports on the speed channel last night, (sorry, can't remember the name of the race), but the cars had exhausts that came out of the side of the car like right under the drivers side door. Why was fire comming out of their exhaust? Like the others, dumb question, but I just don't know."

Those Ford Falcon races in Australia kick ***!! They prob have the fuel running rich and a kind of misfiring system for the turbo.