Ive had a Type r sway bar sittin under my bed for a while...
I know i need a bsq or beaks kit. But I read that I should get better shocks and springs too, or I might rip out the subframe.

So my question is. What else do I need? Any springs I can use that would last a decent amount of time on my car? Its a gsr with 45k on the odo.

 

the shocks/springs you have won't make a difference whether or not your subframe will tear out with the itr bar. the itr swaybar (with beaks or bsq kit) is a good start to make improvements to your car's handling.

it's not a very good idea to use stock shocks with lowering springs. your shocks are designed to be used at the stock ride height. if you are on a budget, there are some economical shock/spring combos you can get that will improve your handling.

hth,
jeff

 

I understand that. How about type r springs?

As for the swaybar, They said that with stock springs, when i take a corner. more flex to keep the rear flat is put on the strees of the bar, where as lowering springs will take some of the pressure off the bar, and the harder spring rates will keep it flatter.

 

I rock the ITR rear bar and stock suspension. I have autocrossed the car three times and no damage here. I have gotten the car on three wheels around three different corners at the last race. I think you would be fine running the ITR bar until you got your springs and shocks.

 

What's up Volcom, Yeah this dude would know he absolulty refuses to get aftermarket suspension and he still does good in autox, but just imagine if he did get suspension, he would probably knock off 5 secs.

How's the engine pull coming along?

 

good. I still don't have the motor out yet but maybe Friday. My dad works tomarrow.

 

I dont see why it should be a prob w/ stock springs. If it's gonna rip outta the subframe it's gonna do it sooner or later, w/ or w/o lowering springs.

VOLCOM- haha, why do you refuse to get aftermarket suspension?

 

What's different between the ITR suspension and the GS-R suspension that would cause the subframe to "rip out"... I was thinking of doing this mod, but now I'm a bit wary of rippin out my subframe

 

Spring rate also affects body roll. Too soft a spring and your car will roll more, adding just a stiffer rear sway bar like the ITR bar is going to put added stress on the subframe, that is why you should also add stiffer springs.

FYI,
GSR springs are F 212lb., R 117lb.
ITR springs are F 246lb., R 140-246lb. Progressive.

Notice that the rates are increased much more in the rear, versus the front?
from http://php.indiana.edu/~bchang/Pics/...ate_Table.html

What makes the ITR handle better than the GSR is not just the larger rear sway bar, but the stiffer springs and shocks. I waited to install the ITR rear swaybar (I used a Beaks kit) after I installed my ITR springs.

If you're on a budget and/or don't want to lower your car too much, you might want to consider the ITR springs. Other options are Eibach Pro-Kits, H&R Sports or OE Sports.




[Modified by emr88, 9:10 PM 1/2/2003]

 

Thank you...thats what Im talkin about

 

putting a large diameter rear sway bar on a car without the right springs/shocks to help handle the load WILL increase chances of subframe tearout significantly.

Type R's obviously have the increased spring rates and shock dampening for more than just that reason, but I am sure that it plays a part in it.

 

I don't know about the gsr but I have a 2000 LS and the difference between it and the ITR is that the LS has to use two mounting brackets to mount the small LS bar to the subframe. They have to do this because there is not a flat surface to mount the bar directly to the subframe. In the ITR they fix this and make the surface that the sway attaches to flat so that it can mount directly to the subframe.

I was worried about putting the bar on my car too but then I saw the sway bar kit that Comptech sells. They use a lower tie bar which mounts to the subframe whiches gives you a flat surface to mount the bar to. So I called up Comptech and got them to send me only the tie bar out of there kit. I put it on then mounted the ITR bar to it. So if the sway bar rips anything out (which I don't think it will) it will rip the tie bar and not the frame. I've had this setup for about a year now without aftermarket shocks or springs and it works great, but I'm sure with aftermarket springs and shocks it would be even better.

On another note if anyone does go with the tie bar from Comptech they will try and tell you that it won't work, but it worked great on my LS.

 

Nope, just on a small budget. I like racing on the stock suspension first, so I can race my car to its fullest on the stock suspension. After I feel that I need a suspension, I will put one on if I can afford it.

 

Yeah, Volcom does pretty well at autocrosses (on the rare occasion that he shows up). The Type-R rear sway bar really makes a huge improvement on stock suspension. I'm not really very interested in getting stiffer springs either. I get a little roll and sloppyness from the front when I accelerate through a turn too much, but I'm thinking a GS-R/Type-R front sway bar will solve that problem. If not, I guess I'll break down and get aftermarket springs.

I was going to get a Civic Si 26mm front bar, but it looks like neither Si or GS-R endlinks will make it fit on a Teg.

 

You should be able to make it work with the GS-R/ITR front endlinks.

They convert a lateral mount to a vertical mount, and you can maneuver/position it in any configuration to make it fit....as long as the length and positioning of the 26mm swaybar isn't off so that it ***** the endlink way off center.

 

That's what I thought, but it turns out that the Si bar is straight on the ends, where Integra bars are at an angle (and that's what the endlink mounting points are made for). I was going to buy it from a Honda mechanic that I know, but I had him look at some Si vs Teg diagrams and pictures and he said it didn't look good. So, I guess I'll just try to find a GS-R/Type-R front sway bar instead...




[Modified by Weston, 9:28 PM 1/2/2003]

 

If it's flat (hole facing up/down), then use the Integra LS/GS endlinks. Better yet, get a set of ES ones for less than $20 for the pair.