well i started driving the car again, and whenever i go to stop, and push in the clutch, the RPMs will go way down, and then the car will shut off, and i don't know why... any ideas?

 

ok, well i adjusted the idle screw out a little, it idles better.... it won't shut off anymore, but the RPMs do still go down to like 500 or below, and the lights dim at night, and then, sometimes the e-brake warning light will come on but goes off whenever i start moving again


[Modified by Boosted97Lude, 12:25 AM 1/4/2003]

 

Sounds like an electrical problem. Good luck with that . Start at your fuse box.

 

How in the world can you do with the fuse box ? fuse can either be connected or not. His problem is dimming light, and crappy idle which always indicates a vacuum leak or defective sensor with anything that has relations to throttle.

where in the world did you get this idea ? sonic and turbulence theory again

anyway, back to the original post

for the brake light, check your fluid on the master cylinder, you may be low at standing still and when the car moves around it rocks back and forth and goes up to the sensor again, if not you may have to replace the cap

check your car for vaccum leak, do you have a bosot gauge, gimme me the readings at idle.

does any belts made any screeching sounds ? check the tension on the alternator belt...if your light is dimming, it may be the alternator or battery getting weak, or the alternator not getting enough juice to keep it running.


[Modified by Flamenco-T, 6:30 AM 1/4/2003]

 

my boost guage read reads about -20 at idle, but when the rpms go way down, it goes up to like -10... the alternator belt was loose and making a horrible sqeuling noise so i tightened it, and nothing changed

 

on me about the brake light. i wasn't thinking straight, i was just thinking that was the light for only an e-brake warning..... i checked the fluid, and it was low....

anyways, when i got to work this morning, i grabbed a hose clamp off the shelf (i work at a hardware store) and went and put it where i had the nylon tube for the boost guage stuck into a rubber vacuum hose.... think i might have had a small vacuum leak right there, but i am not going to be able to tell if the problem went away until probably later tonight..... idle was still staying high b/c the car had not yet reached operating temp b/c it doesn't really warm up to fast b/c i only live like 2 miles awy from work, but anyways, i'll give it a test run and see if that was the problem

 

Sorry to burst your bubble but a bad sensor is electrical which is what the last guy sugested.........never say always.........anything is possible.......another possibility is low coolant.....Check the coolant level if it's low it can cause a bad idle too.....

 

yeah, I know, it can be an electrical problem, but how does it have anything to do with fuse box ? there's a long story and history on this guy

 

still does it, can't figure out why..... my friend that works for Honda seems to think it might have something to do with the MAP sensor and pressure drop off or whatever..... think it could have anything to do with the fact i have a knife-edged crank, and a lightweight flywheel?? you think they might be casuing the RPMs to back down to fast?