The set-up is in the sig.
172.3 whp @ 7750 rpm / 128 ft.lb. @ 5750 rpm, 11/1 a/f ratio on a Mustang dyno.

I was expecting more but I'm really happy with the way it runs and the SOTP increase. I might try to put it on a different dyno to see if I get better numbers. The tq. is flat, and the hp curve is smooth and still climbing, the a/f is realatively flat.


[Modified by ModAddict, 11:54 AM 12/31/2002]

 

Does seem a little low for 11psi, but is the charge cooled in any way? Did you prep the blower for running at such high rpm? I read a while back that the internals of the JRSC like to self-destruct over 9-10psi over a prolonged series of use, but this may have been inacuate.

BTW the 11.1 A/F isn't helping your power numbers either. Did you try leaning it down a little to run around 11.8-11.9? I'd think you'd pick up a few hp there..


[Modified by VTC_boost-less_CiViC, 10:11 AM 12/31/2002]

 

That is very low at 11 psi. Maybe a belt loose or something.

 

ive heard mustang dynos read lower than dynojet. might wanne get on a dynojet so you an compare nimbers more accuratly. also 11:1 is pretty damn rich so thats gonna kill peak power anyway. i second the cooling thing though. might want to look into water injection for boost like that on a jrsc

 

I think they tuned it a little too safe at 11:1. I guess better to be safe than sorry. Anyone have an idea of the % Mustang/Dynojet difference.

 

Your results seem very low. Since you have a Hondata, you should be able to tune the fuel delivery to keep A/F at WOT right around 12.3. You could push it to 12.5 if you want.

Also, what is happening with the ignition? How much are you retarding from stock at max boost? You should be able to get away with only 4-6 degrees retarded from stock with 93 octane. Even with 91 octane, 6 degrees retarded should work.

Maybe you should take your ride to a tuner who knows FI Hondas better. 11:1 is a stupidly rich place to be.

Or...... the dyno could be off. Do you have any 1/4 mile runs? What trap speed are you hitting? I'd expect at least 102mph from your setup.

 

No track times until spring. I thought the tuner new what he was doing and I was suprised when he set it up for 11:1. I'm not sure where the timing is so I'll have to find out.

What will running at 11:1 long term do to the car?

 

mustang dynos give off lower numbers i think is about a 15% to 20% difference between stang and dyno jet

 

Closer to 10-12% actually. JRSC need to tun richer so they don't cause detonation. It sucks, but then again so does the roots design. Face it your never going to make a whole lot of power with that thing. I'd sell it to some poor sap and buy a turbo.

 

if the mustang is 20% lower that would account for the lack of another 40whp.
At 6 psi I dyno'd at 200whp and 150lbs.
At 9psi and hondata (wideband street tuned), I g-tech'd at 245whp.

You should be damn near 230whp easily with your mods.
Check your timing, and ensure that it's at the stock mark. Tune the retard with your Hondata.
As for the A/F ratio, I was seeing some high exhaust temps at 9psi, and 13/14:1.
12.3-12.5:1 was the best WOT A/F for me.

Also, now that you're running Hondata, you can turn your fuel pressure down to 38/42 psi.

 

What was your Air Intake Temps at?

When I was running 11psi, I was seeing 230º + air temps on the dyno.
The tuner & hondata said I would have made more power with 9psi then I did at 11psi because of the air temps.

Just something to think about.

 

if you run too much fuel the extra fuel washes down the side of the cylinder walls and prevents the piston rings from sealing against the walls. this causes a loss of cylinder pressure or compression and therefore a loss of power (both from an inefficient burn due to being too rich (air-fuel ratio wise) and having low compression). When the rings don't seal you also get more blow by and a loss of oil out your tailpipe

 

hypa - The fuel pressure is right at 42 psi. We were at the tuner late last night as he was buttoning things up. I did not get all the data from him before I left. I will find out about the timing Thursday am and post up again. I know it's rich but I thought he did that because of the heat but I did not ask.

Ryan - The AIT number I can't get until Thursday. Did you do anything to lower your boost and try it? I remember your numbers were 220 hp. Was that on a dynojet? Do you know what your a/f ratio was?

Anyone - Does the Mustang/Dynojet % difference also apply to the torque numbers?

Everyone - Thanks for the replies and Happy New Year!


[Modified by ModAddict, 7:46 PM 12/31/2002]

 

my jrsc gsr made 202 fwhp and 152 lbs of tq @ 8 psi.

 

Did you dyno w/ the motor in the car? If so what was your wheel hp and was it a Dynojet or Mustang dyno? What percent did you figure for drivrtrain loss. I was told 18% from the Mustang dyno number which would put me at 210 fwhp and if I apply the same % to the torque, 156 ft.lbs.

If I try to compare to a Dynojet at 12% it would be 196 whp / 145 ft.lbs. Then what is the drivetrain % loss for a Dynojet dyno.

I know there's more power to be had with this set up but I'm still curious what everyone is using for their numbers.

 

No I never lowered the boost and dyno it. I was sick and tired of the Jackson Racing Supercharged by then. All I wanted to do was **** on it.
But that doesn't mean it's a bad product. I just did things the wrong way. I got boost happy and tried to raise the boost too high.
Yes, 220whp on a dynojet. 12.0:1 a/f across the board.

I remember Sonny mad 212 with stock exhaust . ..

I heard the diffence between the two dyno's is roughly 10%. So figure you made at least 190 Wheel HP.

 

Yeah, here's my stuff.

I always ran the stock exhaust and with the Comptech Icebox, my car was whisper quiet.



Sonny

 

My JRSC GSR makes 206whp at 9psi on a mustang dyno. My a/f is between 12.3 and 12.5

 

Sonny was that on a Dynojet dyno? Thanks!

 

Thanks Ryan! I wonder if I could use a simple manual boost controller to lower the boost with this set-up. It might be worth a try. Sounds weird, trying to lower boost!


[Modified by ModAddict, 11:38 AM 1/1/2003]


[Modified by ModAddict, 11:39 AM 1/1/2003]

 

Yes, that was a Dynojet dyno with a 2000 B16A2. I figure that at 8 psi, the stock exhaust was costing me about 10whp. I think with an upgraded exhaust and a Kamikaze header, 225 to 230whp would have easily been doable.

Sonny

 

I made 195 @ 6psi and 230hp with 8.5psi with a pretty much stock setup. I dont think 11:1 is too rich at all. All the FI honda setups I have seen make better power around 11:1 than 12:1.

 

I agree.....
Doug at Hondata said I would have made more power over 220whp @ 8.5 - 9psi instead of 11psi.
He said the car was too hard to tune with those intake temp #'s.

 

That's a good idea. Talk to Zip about getting one of his EBC for the Jackson.

Don't worry it doesn't sound weird. But first find out if you temps were up near mine. If not, then it's your tuner not the heat. . .

Good luck.

 

Sounds good Ryan, thanks. I was thinking more along the lines of a simple manual screw type controler but I'm not sure if they will work with the JRSC set-up.