Well I'm glad to say I've driven the R about 3,000 miles since I bought her back in November! I'm in need of an oil change in the next couple days and I have a few quick questions. My car has 37,000 miles, and over the 3,000 miles it burnt a little less than a quart of oil.

Knowing this, would it be good or bad to switch to synthetic? I'm under the impression that burning a little bit of oil like that, especially when you drive the car hard isn't that bad. Basically, would going all-out and buying Redline oil and a HAMP filter do me any good? Or should I just go to Jiffy Lube and get the standard $20 oil change?

I'm all about switching to synthetic if there is a point to it. I.e. my car using less oil when I drive it hard, being able to go longer between changes, better gas mileage or performance... Or whatever else comes with the synthetic ball of wax.

What do most of you guys run in your car? Should I order one of those tiny HAMP filters for the oil change? Redline oil? Mobil 1? Or normal run of the mill oil? 5w-30? 5w-40?

Oh, and before posting 'omg do a serch noob,' I already searched, came up with a few good threads, but I'm just looking for a "I run (whatever) in my car, you should too, here's why..."



Thanks dudes.

 

HERE'S all the info you need on how to http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php

I run Mobil 1 5w30. The guy who owned my ITR before me ran dealership oil Also, i just go to the dealership and buy OEM filters, but Hamp would work even better(I think). Price difference isn't too much

Larkin- who switched his 1997 to synthetic after he bought it w/ 37,000 miles and has had no problems




[Modified by EbboyPSi, 12:40 PM 12/30/2002]

 

If you're already burning oil, why spend more on the oil you'll be burning? I burn (or blow-by, more likely) less oil with good 'ole Castrol GTX 5w30 than i did running Mobil1 5w30. Just keep an eye on the level and change it every 3k, and you're in the "overkill" category as far as protection.

 

I hear that people who were burning oil w/ mobil 1 aren't anymore with the new supersynthetic


[Modified by EbboyPSi, 12:41 PM 12/30/2002]

 

How do you know what kind of oil is currently in the car now? Do you know if the previous owner used synthetic or not?

 

He told me he just put whatever 5w-30 oil they put in when they change it at the quick lube oil places. Is burning about .8 of a quart over 3000 miles anything to be worried about?

So you guys think I will burn more oil switching to synthetic?

 

This is hearsay. I burnt the same amount of 5w30 with the new/old mobil 1. Mobil1 10w30 has NO burnoff whatsoever. its just too thin and doesn't hold up well at high rpms, even around town.

What would I buy? Schaeffer's 10w30. Half the price of Mobil 1.

I would not continue to use an oil that you have had problems with (i.e., burning a quart around town in 3000 miles), I'd switch.

For around town, 5w30 or 10w30. Why 5w40????


[Modified by Chris N, 12:49 PM 12/30/2002]

 

Synthetic oil flows better in frigid temperatures (that's important in our area this time of year) and is less resistant to thermal failure when hot.

Mobil 1 5W30

5W30 is preferred, as you'll see in the owner's manual. 10W30 is not recommended for the ambient temperatures we get herethis time of year, and is a BAD IDEA, since it is thicker when cold.



[Modified by nsxtcjr, 12:52 PM 12/30/2002]

 

I use Mobile1 synthetic 5w30 and an OEM filter. I switched to synthetic @ around 18k miles, because I am all about using the best. I still change my oil every 3k, and some claim that it's a waste of money, but I don't hold back when it comes to maintanence.

From my understanding, you should use regular oil up until 12-18k, so that the pistons score the cylinder walls, or something like that. I think it's to make a better seal in the long run, but I'm not sure. Then you can switch to synthetic for better lubrication.

Just my thoughts (disclaimer: I could be completely wrong. )

Chris


[Modified by SoCal ITR, 10:53 AM 12/30/2002]

 

Chris N: The oil cap on the engine says to put in 5w-30, would I have any issues running 10w-30? That is twice the w, after all

 

Who says mobil1 is the best? Read the mobil1 thread in this forum that is no 25 pages long, Mobil1 is not regarded as the best by many, if any. Read some of the oil discussion sites, too.

Regular oil for 12-18K?? Where did you get this info?

io-burn - read the mobil1 thread. It is VERY long, but VERY informative about oil. You can't miss it - it is 25 pages and should be somewhere on the 1st or 2nd page of the ITR forum. make your decision on your own using the excellent info in that thread, and in the links provided within that thread.

 

You can use 10w30 except in the very cold of winter, where 10w30 might be a bit thick for those really cold startup temp days in the dead of winter here in chicago.

10w30 runs much better than 5w30 in my experience. Yes, you can use 10w30, except for the winter.

Read the owner's manual in your glove box, it doesn't just say you can use 5w30, it says you can use 10w30 also.


[Modified by Chris N, 12:56 PM 12/30/2002]

 

Hahaha, alright, I'll get out some reading music and make myself a cup of tea and start on that novel of a thread

 

I guess what I meant by the best was by going overkill, i.e. using synthetic and still changing every 3k. Most of the other info I've picked up was hearsay from people not on this board. I'll reiterate that I use Mobile1 and I haven't had any problems.

 

Ken, look at the pour points of many oils and you will see that the difference from 5w to a 10w is not that much. Another thing to look at is the CCA (cold cranking viscosity). 10w30 will be fine in Midwest winters. Granted a 5w will outflow a 10w but it's nothing to seriously avoid. I'll take a 10w since there are no viscosity improvers in Shaeffer at least. Here is a brief recent post from the oildrop forum that might stir up some interest. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=000822#000002

 

Well the concensus is that M1 is the best off the shelf synthetic oil. SuperSyn was definately improved over the older Tri-Syn. I just remember my GS-R (granted 125k+ miles) was chewing through about 1.5 quarts every 3000 miles and thats why I switched to Amsoil at the time. Amsoil eliminated the oil consumption but abiding by their rediculous oil change intervals is not a good idea. I went 5000 miles per change.

 

Mobil 1 has a big name because of marketing and their marketing alliances with big name auto manufacturers. They don't put mobil 1 in 24hr LeMans cars, or in F1 cars, I'll tell you that much. Only a bunch of lab tests after oil changes will really tell you what is working better.

Anyways, after reading the oildrop and other oil sites and the mobil1 thread in this forum, i stopped using mobil1. That, in conjunction with my experiences with mobil1 5w30 burning at high engine temps/high rpms.

 

do it your self go get some 10w 30 synthetic and a mobile 1 oil filter

 

Sorry I got off topic above but the point here is most any off the shelf oil will be fine for 3000 miles with a good oil filter (Purolator PureOne, K&N, M1, Hastings, etc). If you want extended drain intervals, Mobil1, Shaeffer, Redline, and Amsoil are good for 5000-6000 miles IMO.

As Chris said above http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and the forums there provide a WEALTH of legit lubrication info. My Dad found it earlier this year and I try to visit as much as I can. Oil analysis' will provide great info of what your brand of oil and filter is doing for your engine.

 

what would happen if you put supersynthetic 5w50+mc