crucial all-motor setup ?s LS/vtec w/ crower stroker kit...
Topic B18b w/b16 head:
im building a fully built stroker (kit by crower)containing 95mm crank, 12.0:1 compression JE pistons, custom length rods, etc. golden eagle resleeving to 86 or 85 bore.
the b16 head will be fully built too with P&P, and Skunk 2 valve train and cams.
Heres the article from Turbo Magazine that made me question http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0112tur_stroker/
Questions are:
1. Ive read about adding about 25mm to the deck height of the LS block and lengthening the sleeves? is this completely necessary?
2. Do the rods need to be lengthened or shortened, (im pretty sure longer), and how much more, with this setup.
3. What kind of port job do i need for this long rod motor? (long rod VS. short rod debate, torque for long and high end HP for short...)
4. Are Skunk's stage 2 or 3 cams going to be better due to the need for longer intake cam duration?
5. if run on 93 Oct. street fuel, will this be a streetable motor? ive read that an 86mm bore is streetable, but when adding the 95mm stroke is it? also since in the end, with an InlinePro head gasket/oversized valves, the compression will be around 12.2 - 12.4:1 this is safe for street use...? I do know that under 12.5:1 is ok to run street gas...but with the other stuff is it alright?
6. HAS anyone used the crower stroker kits and how are they?
im building a fully built stroker (kit by crower)containing 95mm crank, 12.0:1 compression JE pistons, custom length rods, etc. golden eagle resleeving to 86 or 85 bore.
the b16 head will be fully built too with P&P, and Skunk 2 valve train and cams.
Heres the article from Turbo Magazine that made me question http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0112tur_stroker/
Questions are:
1. Ive read about adding about 25mm to the deck height of the LS block and lengthening the sleeves? is this completely necessary?
2. Do the rods need to be lengthened or shortened, (im pretty sure longer), and how much more, with this setup.
3. What kind of port job do i need for this long rod motor? (long rod VS. short rod debate, torque for long and high end HP for short...)
4. Are Skunk's stage 2 or 3 cams going to be better due to the need for longer intake cam duration?
5. if run on 93 Oct. street fuel, will this be a streetable motor? ive read that an 86mm bore is streetable, but when adding the 95mm stroke is it? also since in the end, with an InlinePro head gasket/oversized valves, the compression will be around 12.2 - 12.4:1 this is safe for street use...? I do know that under 12.5:1 is ok to run street gas...but with the other stuff is it alright?
6. HAS anyone used the crower stroker kits and how are they?
Crower stroker crank = garbage
Eagle stroker crank = badass
If I was you I would swap out the Crower crank for an Eagle 95mm crank. The Eagle crank with the Crower rods work together fine. Expect to spin a bearing with the Crower crank... Good luck
BTW I still have the Crower stroker kit and it is forsale. It just needs a Eagle crank
Eagle stroker crank = badass
If I was you I would swap out the Crower crank for an Eagle 95mm crank. The Eagle crank with the Crower rods work together fine. Expect to spin a bearing with the Crower crank... Good luck
BTW I still have the Crower stroker kit and it is forsale. It just needs a Eagle crank
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why is it garbage?
instead of getting a B18B..decking/sleeving..stroking etc...why dont you look into the Dart Aftermarket Blocks...Ductile sleeves..84~85 bore..bout 1/2" higher deck for better rod/stroke ratio..fits all honda parts....
You have to determan what you want out of your engine. The rod/stroke raito determans like you said torque. If you deside to go with the 95 mm crank and have stock deckhight the rod/stroke raito would be terribel but you gonna have hugh torque. You would have enormas piston speeds and great wear because of the side loads from the pistons to cylinderwals. Thats way you kneed a deckplate so you can have longer rods. If you want to rev you should have a rod stroke raito of 1,75
If you are going NA get 85mm bore sleeves a deckplate and coustom length rods so you have a 1,75 rod/stroke raito and you have a screaming high power 2,2L engine that loves to rev over 10 000 rpm if your head is built for it.
If you are going NA get 85mm bore sleeves a deckplate and coustom length rods so you have a 1,75 rod/stroke raito and you have a screaming high power 2,2L engine that loves to rev over 10 000 rpm if your head is built for it.
unless this is a full race car dont even use the 95MM crank. 89mm will do you just fine and can make 250 whp with it. Call AEBS and speak to them about cranks and what they recommend. I gaurantee they tell you the same because that is basically what they told us when we called them.
Tru dart blocks and other full blocks are nice but like 2grand or more...
im oretty sure without a deckplate the stroker companies compensate for the rod/stroke by making their **** proper lengths and moving the pins on the rods so its close to the good ratio?
im oretty sure without a deckplate the stroker companies compensate for the rod/stroke by making their **** proper lengths and moving the pins on the rods so its close to the good ratio?
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From: Woodbridge, NJ, Middlesex
Topic B18b w/b16 head:
im building a fully built stroker (kit by crower)containing 95mm crank, 12.0:1 compression JE pistons, custom length rods, etc. golden eagle resleeving to 86 or 85 bore.
the b16 head will be fully built too with P&P, and Skunk 2 valve train and cams.
1. Ive read about adding about 25mm to the deck height of the LS block and lengthening the sleeves? is this completely necessary?
im building a fully built stroker (kit by crower)containing 95mm crank, 12.0:1 compression JE pistons, custom length rods, etc. golden eagle resleeving to 86 or 85 bore.
the b16 head will be fully built too with P&P, and Skunk 2 valve train and cams.
1. Ive read about adding about 25mm to the deck height of the LS block and lengthening the sleeves? is this completely necessary?
also, before getting yourself into the stroker kit, ask yourself about timing belt option, camshaft timing, distributor sync timing, engine managent modification, and underhood clearacne ... all due to an extra 25mm more deck ... is it worth it or can you be satisfied with a big bore stock 89mm crank ?
sometimes its not as easy as black and white because ppl look at what's selling but not what else is required.
greg
yes i understand but i thought that the stroker manufacturers make the rods to where the ratio is good at around 1.64-1.75?
i never said use a dart block. I said look into aebs sleeves and a stock height 89MMx85MM motor. Youll make all the power you ever neeed with that bottom end for a street car. Spend the difference only building a good head and youll make 250+hp with like ~13CR
haha dave i gotta crush the new INlinePro car if i get it built by late spring..lol like thatll happen, but im tryin...thats y i need cash badly, im strugglin, anyone look in my sig to buy ****.
u cant be serious? InlinePro is a shop. Their funds are endless. If they blow their **** up, they arent ou ****. If you blow ur **** up your out ur life savings. It better be Jeff and Brian paying for this, otherwise its a waste of time. Do yourself a favor and go buy a motorcycle, or a big screen tv, or start saving for a house.....dont do this bull ****.



