what cams to run and be safe wit milled head
i'm in the market for some cams but dont know which one will work wit my set up
i have a built b18c1 head milled 60 thou wit b18c1 block wit pr3 pistons oem headgasket. I was looking in at either getting skunk2 stage 1 or stage 2 which one would be safe for my set up ? With out damaging it but yet give it the most hp
Thanks in advance
[Modified by tmex05, 9:45 AM 12/28/2002]
i have a built b18c1 head milled 60 thou wit b18c1 block wit pr3 pistons oem headgasket. I was looking in at either getting skunk2 stage 1 or stage 2 which one would be safe for my set up ? With out damaging it but yet give it the most hp
Thanks in advance
[Modified by tmex05, 9:45 AM 12/28/2002]
with a milled head, you'll be luck to run anything!!! If you want to aftermarket cams the best would be to go very mild, which isn't worth a damn.
Here's a story for ya to support my case. I had a B16 with a milled head, around 8thou, I threw in some JUN III cams (people say SK2 have similar lift and duration) next thing I know I am getting a new motor because cyl 3 went to pot.
As you can tell I am now a big advocate against milling and big cams. You really run the risk of destroying the motor. In my opinion why spend $$ on cams if all your going to get is something just like, or slightly better, than the ITR cams?
Here's a story for ya to support my case. I had a B16 with a milled head, around 8thou, I threw in some JUN III cams (people say SK2 have similar lift and duration) next thing I know I am getting a new motor because cyl 3 went to pot.
As you can tell I am now a big advocate against milling and big cams. You really run the risk of destroying the motor. In my opinion why spend $$ on cams if all your going to get is something just like, or slightly better, than the ITR cams?
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with a milled head, you'll be luck to run anything!!! If you want to aftermarket cams the best would be to go very mild, which isn't worth a damn.
Here's a story for ya to support my case. I had a B16 with a milled head, around 8thou, I threw in some JUN III cams (people say SK2 have similar lift and duration) next thing I know I am getting a new motor because cyl 3 went to pot.
As you can tell I am now a big advocate against milling and big cams. You really run the risk of destroying the motor. In my opinion why spend $$ on cams if all your going to get is something just like, or slightly better, than the ITR cams?
Here's a story for ya to support my case. I had a B16 with a milled head, around 8thou, I threw in some JUN III cams (people say SK2 have similar lift and duration) next thing I know I am getting a new motor because cyl 3 went to pot.
As you can tell I am now a big advocate against milling and big cams. You really run the risk of destroying the motor. In my opinion why spend $$ on cams if all your going to get is something just like, or slightly better, than the ITR cams?
Maybe .080, but not .008
Let me clarify. I highly doubt milling your head EIGHT thousandths caused your engine to blow. Most machine shops mill up to TEN thousandths to make sure the head is not warped.
NOW, if you had your head milled EIGHTY thousandths, then YES, I believe you could have damaged your engine with high lift cams and milling that much.
Actually, I just got a call from them this morning- still trying to get some $$ out of them- they told me that the block was decked and the head millled. Idiots!!! I still wouldn't mill the head unless absolutly necessary, and if you're going to add cams, clay the motor just to be safe!
im running skunk2 stage 2's in my jspec gsr w/ my head milled .030, and its been running fine for about 6000 miles. i asked a similar question on this board and many people told me just measure valve to piston clearance, better to be safe than sorry
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