are R cams ok in a stock motor? Do i NEED to have R valvesprings and retainers if im not gonna rev the **** out of it all the time?

 

have seen it done, would definitely keep it under 8000.

you do need the valve springs, there is a reason they are stiffer.

 

Well if you don't get them you could experiance valve float. I got this information from csi, posters' name was waistoftime "Valve float is when the opening and the closing speed of the valves becomes so fast that the springs cannot keep up with the valves motion, causing the valves to float away from the cam's profile. This can cause serious damage if the floating valves smack the pistons. To combat valve float, stiffer valve springs must be used. Stiffer valve springs create more friction within the engine and promote better wear of valvetrain parts. Lightweight titanium valve spring retainers reduce the inertial forces that contribute to valve float." So just pay the extra amout of money to get stiffer springs.

 

i keep it under 8k because i only have a factory tach, 8 is the bottom.

what is the redline with the springs and retainers? Can i just get inner valvesprings? Are the stock b16a's equipped with dual springs or single, im thinking single.

sorry for my jumbled ideas.

 

think of if this way. you have a head from a (assuming) 1st gen B16 which is built to rev to 8k rpm but with a lower lift cam.
if you do have a 1st gen B16 head, then your valve springs are ~12 years old and steel does weaken over time plus your OE valve springs were never made to rev as high especially with higher lift cams.

AND if you have an AUTO version of the B16 engine, then you have dual springs on the intake side but only SINGLE springs on the exhaust.

so why risk it? it will be worth the extra $$ for the R pieces just peace of mind IMO.

but you can rev past 8k. verified by my VAFC i have revved to 8686rpm before but by that time my stock tach was pegged at the bottom about where you think 8400-8500rpm should be.


[Modified by sleeper4dr, 6:39 AM 12/28/2002]

 

Good point.
How can I tell if its an auto head? the cams are weaker too, maybe thats why its so slow.
I know i can rev past 8k, but i cant tell what rpm im at and it makes me paranoid. SO i guess its good, so i dont over rev.


[Modified by Frosty_SPL, 10:50 PM 12/27/2002]

 

It would be a good idea to get the R parts, but I have a friend that drove the **** outta his b16 (1st gen) revving to upwards of 8600, I once saw it hit 8900 while sitting in the car watching the vafc.....his motor is stock internals and it still runs fine, them b16s can rev forever

 

So true.

 

When I was running a B16a setup almost a year ago from now, I missed shifted a few times from 3rd to 2nd. Engine hold its own but after awhile it will smoke abit. But I can say this, I ran the CTR intake cam for more than 40,000 miles on a '91 B16a X-SI motor. no problems at all, but I never passed than 8200 RPM either.

 

ok well i talked to chris at honda hookups import tek in upland CA and he said u can install type r cams with completley stock internals and have absolutley no worries. but also i never ever go over 8200 theres really no point u just start losing power.

 

Get the cams , retainers and springs, stock b16a1 valves float at 8500rpm.. I'm getting the cams as well , get a reprog. ECU and Apexi V-afc and get it tuned on the dyno. With i/h/e and the listed mods you should be around 175 -180ps

 

175 ps, what is that in hp? like 165? Sounds high, but i hope youre right!

 

Ok so how much can you guys get them for?????????

 

550 installed at honda hookups

 

The R cams should be fine in your stock motor. My Bro ran ITR cams in his b16 on stock internals, with other basic bolt ons, for over a year, w/ no problems. He had his share of races, and quite a few 8k RPM pulls. That car ran strong for what it was, if I remember right it made 156whp.

Good Luck.

 

i have a set of itr cams for sale if anyone is intrested pm me