I'm getting a crane stage 2 D16A6 cam for Christmas and i need a few pointers or tips before i install it. Anyone have a write up or anything. Never installed a cam but it shouldnt be too bad. So anyone wanna help me?

TIA

 

what do you need to know?? email me and i will help ya out.
chris
chriscarroll4@hotmail.com

 

Good point. I might go pick up some fresh stock springs.

 

It's a very strong engine. But some fresh valvetrain would be good. and i will get an Adj. FPR soon but i have an OEM honda one i bumped up 5 psi. engine has 137K on it. and i will get a completely new computer system that allows you to reprogram and set everything to my desired specs.

 

you should make sure the cam is within spec (runout) before you put it in, and make sure you use the assembly lube it comes with.

 

Its pretty straight forward.. take off valve cover. Set to TDC. Remove rocker arm assembly. Lift out stock cam. Remove stock cam gear, and install to new cam. Cam lube (recommended). Install cam. Install rocker arm to torque spec. set valve lash to Crane Cam spec. Valve cover goes on. re-check everything.

I doubt you need any new valve springs. If the lift and duration of the cam was too much for the stock springs to handle, crane would have provided the package along with new springs designed for it. Stock springs should be fine. Youre going to want to get an aftermarket ECU. An ECU will provide the higher redline and more advanced fuel curve. Since the powerband of the new cam will be a drastic difference, you need to raise the fuel cutoff. Just dont take your redline too high, stock springs hate that. Dont worry about an FPR until later.
As far as gains and losses... low end will die, top end will be nice.


[Modified by [626]Rj-SiHatchy, 2:38 AM 12/25/2002]

 

i got a good solution... and cheap:
88-89 Teg Ecu(higher redline, more agressive fuel map)
D16y8 fpr (higher psi)
New valve springs (just cause you'll need them)

it will be hell of alot cheaper then custom ecu and adjustable fpr.. then get a s-afc if you really need to control the fuel that bad.

this is the route i would take.

 

I'm also running a Stage1 crane cam( this cam improves low end and midrange). The one slowman's getting is the stage 2 improves top-end both cam can use fresh stock valve spring.. I used my stock spring because it was in very pristine condition.

It's pretty much straight forward, just like what Rj-Si wrote and that's pretty much the step by step procedure.. I was shocked when i fired up my engine it rans smooth butter smooth. Make sure you run your engine above 1500 rpm for atleast 30 min by adjusting the idle control to prevent permature wear, and also no synthetic oil use regular oil.. Also, follow the break-in period before you WOT it (Adj cam gear, FPR gauge, and adj fpr) is the key for this upgrade..

 

Thanks a lot you guys.

I will be back if i have anymore questions...til then Merry Christmas and thanks

 

I thought my motor was strong too then it threw a rod at 105k!

 

slowman, youre stock springs are safe to 8k. I am running a pg7(88-89)teg which cuts off at 7500 i beleive, i have a stock cam and i constantly hit the redline and the engine runs perfect(and i have 180k) so you are fine-----when all is said and done dyno-tune that beotch.