I guess this is the right place...motor mount insert
Hey-
I am looking for this window weld shyt that you squeeze into the motor mount insert, to make it stiffer.
anyone know what im talking about?
I am looking for this window weld shyt that you squeeze into the motor mount insert, to make it stiffer.
anyone know what im talking about?
From Nick M
I have fiberglass long strand bondo in my side and rear mount. I havent broken or cracked them yet. I got this tip from a muscle car guy who is a Honda mechanic where I did my swap. He saw my urethane front insert and told me about this apparently old trick of using fiberglass long strand bondo to strengthen mounts. They have withstood plenty of hard launches on the strip even lousy high rpms clutch dumps.
I know your question pertains to track use so my guess would be it would hold up just as well under track conditions as long as they were no worse than dumping the clutch in an H22 powered accord at about 6500rpm.
My suggestion would be to try the fiberglass bondo on the rear mount. Fill the rubber insert completely. Allow it to dry etc. I painted mine black after it dried. (Not that anyone can see it, but im a perfectionist ) Give it a try. Beat the poo out of it. If you do manage to break it it was only a $10 experiment. You could then go with the Lx/Dx/Lude combo mount and get the insert for it or even fill that one up with bondo. I am very confident though that my bondo filled mounts are as strong as urethane inserts.
Listen to me, I sound like a salesman lol.
I know your question pertains to track use so my guess would be it would hold up just as well under track conditions as long as they were no worse than dumping the clutch in an H22 powered accord at about 6500rpm.
My suggestion would be to try the fiberglass bondo on the rear mount. Fill the rubber insert completely. Allow it to dry etc. I painted mine black after it dried. (Not that anyone can see it, but im a perfectionist ) Give it a try. Beat the poo out of it. If you do manage to break it it was only a $10 experiment. You could then go with the Lx/Dx/Lude combo mount and get the insert for it or even fill that one up with bondo. I am very confident though that my bondo filled mounts are as strong as urethane inserts.
Listen to me, I sound like a salesman lol.
i have done this - go to an automotive suppy store and buy window-weld (thats what its called). Then go buy a caulk gun and fill the void areas in the mount with the window weld, let dry for a day or so.
Much cheaper than aftermarket mounts/inserts (even better if there are none available). Its very easy to do and they hold up very well.
Much cheaper than aftermarket mounts/inserts (even better if there are none available). Its very easy to do and they hold up very well.
the energy suspension inserts can be had for less $40, and all but the rear are a joke to install. this window-welding-caulking ghetto stuff doesn't sound worth the effort.
by the time you have cleaned this crap off your hands, the driveway, the dog, and then wait for it to dry, you'd already have installed the front mounts and would be sitting in the driver's seat listening to **** vibrate.
they probably don't make inserts for saturn's, and that's why RJ is backing you up. they do however make them for preludes - congrats on the car RJ.
[Modified by ruthless013, 5:06 PM 12/23/2002]
by the time you have cleaned this crap off your hands, the driveway, the dog, and then wait for it to dry, you'd already have installed the front mounts and would be sitting in the driver's seat listening to **** vibrate.
they probably don't make inserts for saturn's, and that's why RJ is backing you up. they do however make them for preludes - congrats on the car RJ.
[Modified by ruthless013, 5:06 PM 12/23/2002]
the energy suspension inserts can be had for less $40, and all but the rear are a joke to install. this window-welding-caulking ghetto stuff doesn't sound worth the effort.
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they probably don't make inserts for saturn's
Much cheaper than aftermarket mounts/inserts (even better if there are none available)
Deeming this process not worth the effort is a matter of opinion. I wrote the how-to on the process. It wouldn't save you much money with window weld by the time you get them done....maybe only saving you $10-15 in the end. A tube will run you $11 and will fill the torque mounts, without any problems. However, the other 3 mounts take quite a bit more. I would say 3 to do them all.
As far as the mess, I do not have a problem. Wear rubber gloves and let them set and dry on some cardboard. I spend no time with clean up.
I recommend the window weld solution for a cheap fix. I had two completely destroyed torque mounts. Rather than replace them with new ones, I spent $11 and solved my problem.
Doing the torque mounts alone was more than enough to solve my engine movement problems.
-Alex
[Modified by civicgsr, 11:34 PM 12/26/2002]
As far as the mess, I do not have a problem. Wear rubber gloves and let them set and dry on some cardboard. I spend no time with clean up.
I recommend the window weld solution for a cheap fix. I had two completely destroyed torque mounts. Rather than replace them with new ones, I spent $11 and solved my problem.
Doing the torque mounts alone was more than enough to solve my engine movement problems.
-Alex
[Modified by civicgsr, 11:34 PM 12/26/2002]
I've been researching on this topic for the past month or so and I'm going to give the directions at the below link a try sometime in the fall or winter. Going to have the motor out for a rebuild anyway and as long as the prep work is done correctly it seems fairly simple. McMaster Carr sells the stuff and for less than $30 you can choose the urethane hardness and have solid mounts
:
http://www.mr2sc.com/websites/...1.htm
:http://www.mr2sc.com/websites/...1.htm
I am pretty sure I can make it w/o removing the support itself. I'll use a motor jack to have the motor sit in the correct position (no stress on the mount) and spray the urethane into it.
Any cons on doing that ?
Any cons on doing that ?
I don't see any problem doing it that way....Obviously it would be better/cleaner to pull the mount and do it on a workbench using masking tape and whatnot....but I don't see why your way wouldn't work.
Take pics and post them
Take pics and post them
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STN_Pat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am pretty sure I can make it w/o removing the support itself. I'll use a motor jack to have the motor sit in the correct position (no stress on the mount) and spray the urethane into it.
Any cons on doing that ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
From what I understand, that polyhurethane is quite a liquidy substance in it's initial stage. You'll prolly end up making a mess out of it. I say do the mounts one at a time off the car.
Like has been said, for the price the inserts go for, just go for that. Now on my car, we've Frankensteined some G3 Civic and G1 Teg mounts along with a stock EF rear mount in order to get the D16A1 to fit, and insert is only available for the EF mount, which i got. So i'll do poly-urethane from McMaster. Funny, i just ordered it this morning (80A hardness). Couldnt find any local suppliers that had the exact same stuff. Didnt want to take a chance with getting the wrong stuff and the McMaster **** seems to work for others.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Any cons on doing that ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
From what I understand, that polyhurethane is quite a liquidy substance in it's initial stage. You'll prolly end up making a mess out of it. I say do the mounts one at a time off the car.
Like has been said, for the price the inserts go for, just go for that. Now on my car, we've Frankensteined some G3 Civic and G1 Teg mounts along with a stock EF rear mount in order to get the D16A1 to fit, and insert is only available for the EF mount, which i got. So i'll do poly-urethane from McMaster. Funny, i just ordered it this morning (80A hardness). Couldnt find any local suppliers that had the exact same stuff. Didnt want to take a chance with getting the wrong stuff and the McMaster **** seems to work for others.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STN_Pat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's involved in removing the rear motor mount ? I doubt I can do it myself with only basics tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's really not too bad on my car, but mine is carb'd so no EFI manifold etc in the way. Plus it's only the rubber assembly attached to the subframe that's a stock EF piece, the part that attaches to the tranny was custom made by Trac. So at this point, mine is not a good reference.
Do a search on motor/engine mounts on this site. I've seen plenty of good posts about removing/modifying the rear mounts while i was researching this subject.
It's really not too bad on my car, but mine is carb'd so no EFI manifold etc in the way. Plus it's only the rubber assembly attached to the subframe that's a stock EF piece, the part that attaches to the tranny was custom made by Trac. So at this point, mine is not a good reference.
Do a search on motor/engine mounts on this site. I've seen plenty of good posts about removing/modifying the rear mounts while i was researching this subject.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L8ApexH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm...I wonder if this would pass muster / impound in Topeka?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why not? It's an SM car...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Why not? It's an SM car...
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