My ITR is burning all kinds of oil. I have noticed that it only burns oil when driven hard though. What's the fun of owning a ITR if I can't drive it the way I want?

My question is. Should I go with some JDM ITR pistons or CTR pistons when doing this? I'm sure it's only the rings, but since I'm there I might as well go ahead and try to make it a little faster. I was thinking about CTR pistons and the CTR intake cam. Has anyone done this kind of setup or is it just a waste of money?

Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.

 

What weight oil are you using?

Do you run a Catch Can?

 

The CTR intake cam would be a waste of money since you have a 00 ITR anyway, The CTR cam either has only 1 degree more duration, or is identical, depending upon who you ask.

The pistons, would be a good idea though

 

I there a certain size CTR piston I need? Might sound like a dumb question, but I've heard people say things like, "get 20 over" and I don't know what I would need. Would there be anythink I would have to do to the block? If this is gonna be a big job, I might jsut get rid of it. I've already invested 1600 dollar in it 2 months ago replacing the exhaust valves and springs. Acura dealerships can suck my ***.

What else can I do to make this thing feel like a different car after it done since the CTR cam is a waste?


[Modified by COREY ITR#625, 4:20 AM 12/21/2002]

 

honestly, i'm in the same boat. recently my car has been burning quite a bit of oil. Last oil change i was 2.0-2.5 quarts low. The delima I'm having is whether to spend the money to get this one fixed, or sell this shortblock to a friend for 800, and pick up an importbuilders built B20. I'm thinking that I am going to go with the IB block, this cost increase over rebuilding this one is minimal considering I could sell the stock block

 

Yup, same everything, I've only changed the oil once, so the oil that was drained then was the oil that was in the car when i took delivery Only thing i've changed so far has been the header/cat, shocks/springs, and roll bar.

now monday, will be a different story, VAFC, cams, gears, smsp b pipe, and jdm 23 mm swaybar will be going on.

 

It depends what you plan on doing to your car in the future. It also depends if you are willing to change your piston rods. The JDM ITR pistons will fit on your stock rods however upgrading your rods is a good investment. The JDM ITR pistons are the more mild option. The CTR pistons are availble in the stock 80.99 mm size or varius larger sizes which will give your engine more displacement but will require you to bore out your block. The CTR pistons can be used on stock rods but you will have to grind them down a bit. I would definetly upgrade my piston rods if i was going with the higher compression CTR pistons.

 

Yikes!!!

If you're only adding oil when you change it you're turning a little oil consumption into a big, fat, hairy problem later.

B-series engines consume some oil when they're driven hard (some oils seem to exaggerate this consumption, such as Mobil 1). That's just the way it is. Anybody who runs his B-series hard needs to know that and keep a close eye on oil levels, <U>and add oil as soon as it gets a bit low.</U> You should be checking your oil level every time you refuel your car.


[Modified by MK Ultra, 11:37 AM 12/21/2002]

 

It cost me 1400 to replace the exhaust valves back in October. When the guy took the head off he told me it was burning a little oil, but I never noticed it being really low when the oil was changed. Now after the valves, it burns oil like crazy. I didn't notice it until one day when I got on it and the VTEC was cutting in and out. I've been driving it rather modest here lately so I haven't noticed any oil consumption. I've only noticed it when driven hard and it only smokes when getting on it. I usually notice smoke around 5000 rpm and so on.

About the performance thing. I'm tired of putting money into this car and it not getting any faster. It would make me feel better knowing I'm actually upgrading and getting the car to performe better than just sinking this mass amount of cash into it and it's still the same ol' Type-R. Know what I mean? I mean I already have 1400 in the head and it is still stock. I don't want to tell people that I have over $2000 in my motor and it's basically stock.

Thanks, Corey

 

Why did it cost you $1400 to change the valves? Was the car out of warranty? Who did the work? Are you sure the smoke at 5000 rpm is oil? ITRs typically run very rich in the VTEC maps and it isn't unusual to see a puff of black smoke near the switchover. Oil smoke would be blue.

 

The first time they were replaced under warrenty, but I had to pay Acura $950 for the labor. I think they screwed up because about 4 months after the repair I started getting misfire codes all the time. I kept taking it in and they would basically clear the code and would tell me to see if that helped. Finally, my car goes out of warrenty and then they tell me they need to do a leak down and a compression test and charge me over $100 for this. I asked why would I be charged being this has been an ongoing problem and they told me it was out of warrenty and it was out of thier hands. I bitched about it and they had the distract service manager come in and look at my case and told me they would take $10 of their $70 an hour labor charge and give me cost on parts if I had them fix it. I asked for a estimate and they told me it was gonna be almost $2000 to be fixed if it were the valves. I did a compression test myself and found I had low compression in cylinders 1-2. I took my car to a guy that rebuilt my buddies CRX and he quoted me a prive of $1400 with all OEM Honda parts. After the valves were replaced, about 2 weeks later I got another CEL and it was saying my idle contrl vavle was bad. I went to Acura to ask if there was a warrenty on this part being it has been replaced once before under warrenty and they told me if my car is out of warrenty the part is too. Supposively if you have a part replaced under warrenty it is only good til your car goes out. Crock of **** if you ask me. So I had to pay $225 for a new one and put it on last week and it still didn't fix the idling problem I have. Got another CEL the day I put it on and now I have a evap leak somewhere. My car is idling around 1800 rpms and then it starts idling all stupid after a while when sitting at a light. I have to turn the car off and restart it and then it's fine for about 1 min. and then does it again. I'm really getting tired of this car really fast.

Oh, I know it's oil because it's all over my bumper. I thought it might be carbon from running rich with the CEL blazin, but I don't think carbon smears does it? I think it's a mixture of both.


[Modified by COREY ITR#625, 1:35 PM 12/21/2002]

 

That is absolutely terrible!

You got ripped off! They should have fixed it without charging you <U>anything</U>. Labour costs are included in warranty work! And when their work was faulty they should have been kissing your *** and doing everything in their power to make sure your car was right.

I'm sorry you had such a bad experience. I've never heard of such lousy customer service from an Acura dealership. What is the name of this dealership?


[Modified by MK Ultra, 6:29 PM 12/21/2002]

 

Yep, thats a crock of ish. They Charge you labour on warranty work? I'd make sure i got that money back. Sorry you are having so many problems, it sounds like you still havn't found the problem.

 

The dealer knew how the valves got bent. They told me it shouldn't have even been covered at all, but since I was honest with them they would cover parts if I covered the labor cost. I never got a invoice on what was done. All I know is that they sent me head off to a machine shop and that was it.

Funny thing is, I told them I work for Ford Mo. Co. and bought a Acura over a Ford and they still gave me the shaft. I want to keep my ITR, but I really don't want to shell out the cash to get new rings and whatever it may need and it still not run right. I've already wasted enough money on this thing.

I thought about selling it super cheap just to get rid of it and out of my hair, but I'd feel bad selling it to someone the way it sits right now. I only owe 9,000 on it.

 

Ok, I wasn't aware that the valves bent due to driver error.

Still, you could have told them to shove it and had your insurance cover it. Full coverage insurance will take care of that, and as far as I know it is required to have full coverage when you finance a car.

Secondly, it doesn't matter how the damage was done. You <U>paid</U> them to fix it. If their work was faulty they should have fixed it free of cost when you brought it back. Period.

If I were you, I wouldn't let anybody I like get work done there.

 

Is this true? I have always wondered about this. If someone could answer this for me, let me know. It could come in handy in the future. Especially with my track record.

 

Take a look at your policy, or call your insurance company to be sure if you are covered.

 

You do not have to grind down rods or pistons if you use CTR pistons, and if you are staying NA, there is no need to upgrade your rods too.