well i got a drag race on jan 5th, my turbo won't be done so i'll be runnin n/a. what free mods are there to get a better time?

 

unload your interior, spare, jack, backseats, back seat supports, sound deadening matteriall(looks like rubber layed over the metal) all the carpet and cardboard trunk thing, all the trunk panels, floor mats, door panels, sun visors, passenger seat, cd player, parts of console that come off easily including the trim piece. put lots of air in your rear tires, and lower the psi in the front(not sure on exact specs), then for power, there's the flapper valve mod, the fpr mod, the egr mod, timing mod, and i think i'm forgetting a few, who knows, what are your mods(if different then sig) and where are you racing at, and what class are you in?

 

Well i'm not really lookin to strip the **** outta my car cuz i live in apartments and i don't wanna just put it on my nice white carpet. How do u do those other mods u were talkin bout like the flapper and egr mods?

 

1. http://members.tripod.com/~Pre_ludE/pmods.html
2. im confused; some people say weight in the back is bad, evil, killer. others say strip out all the back. which is true? makes sense to me that you want weight over the drive wheels, e.g. the front wheels, to boost traction. that way when u hit the gas less weight shifts backwards.
3.from personal experience, try not to gut the back of your car and then drive in the rain with 0 traction. whoever said you cant break loose the rear of a FF car, LIED !

 

Free mods for a drag race? Really the only thing that you can do is strip the crap out of your car. Depending on how much squat that you get off the line, you can throw somekind of hard foam between the rear springs to increase your spring rate to prevent the squat and give the fronts more traction. If you have a friend with a Type-R or any other thinner 5 lug wheels steal them for the rear. The EGR and other stuff won't really help since for the first 5 minutes (while your car is warming up to operating temp) there is NO airflow over anything and all components will heat up considerably so the EGR and the fast idle modifications will not work.

 

remove a/c and p/s, advance your timing...some weight loss...lighter rims

 

take the belt of the balancer shaft....Don't forget to let air out of the front tires to get some grip...take off on the third yellow....and don't shift till 7000rpm so it stays in vtec...advancing your timming and removing the belts makes a big differance.


[Modified by LudeBehavior, 6:03 PM 12/19/2002]

 

**** that. keep the shaft belt thats a pain in the ***.

also i went to the dyno to get some baselines b4 my turbo kit.. i tried it with the flapper valves and withought them hooked up.. i lost 7hp from 2000-4800 without them hooked up and didnt loose anything with them hooked up.. actually gained .3 with them hooked up (that probably just being differece in pulls).. so **** the flapper valve mod..

 

take some tools and strip it out at the track...leave it in a pile. that's what everybody does...

 

Youre kidding right? Shift @ 7000?

 

Unbolt your exhaust, Gut your cat, advance timing

 

basically just do what you can to improve traction and that'll be your best bet, shift at 7000.........yes do that........go on the 3rd light.......go buy a lighter but equal cranking battery, take any unecessary weight out, such as books, mags, cd cases, alll that ****.......and when you're on the track turn your cd player off, and turn on your defrost.......set it on full hot, and don't use the ac, and keep it on floor level, that uses the heat from the engine bay to warm you up thus cooling the engine, and take a bag of ice and put it on your engine after everypass, leave it for a while and then before your next pass take it off...........thats just a few things i'd do

 

WTF.. shift at 7k You know i'm runnin a Si right.

 

yeah so was i , i ran it through redline right before fuel cut off almost every time, it worked for me and it proved better than anything else

 

what was your best time running like that?

 

14.23 with i/h/e/ a few free mods, no interior and a semi built engine

 

Right

 

well stock i ran 15.3 with full interior

 

right, sure..Im talking to the worlds best driver...

 

ive hit that stock in my si.. some cars are kick *** from factory most are average some are runts..
all comes to the driver though..

and track and elevation..


[Modified by BoostedH23a1, 10:39 PM 12/19/2002]

 

OK... I agree. Those brady mods don't really work. The FPR mod just made my A/F bounce all over like crazy... from lean to rich.. most of the time it bounces back and forth in a pattern (rich, to lean, and back).. with the mod it started to head from rich to lean, back to rich, drop to lean, etc. Wow. Also, i forget which mod it was but he says about the tube blowing air at 40psi so it couldn't suck in anything anyhow.. it doesn't. Infact it does suck like all the others. Ok, well atleast the things he describes don't match with my H22A. I did the EGR one, keeping the EGR in place and just using sheet metal under it.. no ECU codes.. so I can say that atleast doesn't seem to do anything negitive.

 

the track i did it on(kcir) sucks, but it's sticky as hell so i got a really good launch, this is in kansas, so whatever altitude that happens to be

 

I second that. I went back and checked our dyno sheets.. we did at one point unhook the flapper to check the HP thinking it was causing the block on our initial setup (ended up being a melted cat).. but with the FV mod done, HP didn't really change at all, but we lost alot of low end torque. Maybe, just maybe it does help a NA car? (I'll find out soon) but as for FI it doesn't.