Hey guys it's me again with the heat issue. I can feel heat coming from my vents but my blower motor, which I just replaced, only works when it wants to. I checked relay and it tested fine. The only other I can see in the electrical diagram is a blower motor switch some where behind the glove box. Does anyone know anything about this switch? how can I test it, is it easy to replace? Thanks.

 

this is my 3rd or 4th post on this topic and barley anyone has replied. Has no one out there experienced this problem or know anything about it? If not could someone steer me towards a site where someone might be able to help me? Thanks.

 

I haven't had this happen on my car, but my GFs VW had this problem and it was the variable resistor box. THe contacts were dirty and it was losing connection at certain points. I don't know where it is on your car, but isf you can find it, open it up and clean the contacts. Thats all I can think of.

 

So basically when its on recirc, you don't feel any air... but on fresh, you feel the air? Basically none of the positions work, so it seems as if the blower is not getting any voltage at all right?

Some of the cars, like my friend's toyota had a fuse under his glove box... in this place where nobody would have thought of looking... where there were two hvac fuses. Could be like ths on the honda. Of course you checked the fuses behind the drivers kick panel...
according to my haynes fuse #18 under the hood goes to a blower relay on a 93.
check for voltage at the blower motor, then at the relay, then at the heater/air conditioner assembly. this sounds like a day's work to me... with my chiltons.

according to my schematics, if you jump the switch, you should be getting some air. From the switch, it goes straight to the blower resistor. and the blower motor is directly wired off the blower resistor's hi speed one. Basically the ground goes to the switch... where the switch selects the resistance and controls the fan speed. According to this diagram, if you have it on high, it bypasses the resistor module, thus elimating the resistor as a fault.

So if you're not getting hot air at the highest setting, then we can trace back to the blower relay. according to this, its in the dash fuse box. tracing back here.... if you jump the relay by yanking it out and putting a wire across the current it controls... you should be getting voltage to the blower. if this doesnt work, check for voltage present at the relay.

If there's voltage present, then i might be wrong about the resistor pack, because it shows the max speed junction outside of the resistor array. If this junction is inside of the array, then you're gonna have to take a look at it.

if theres no voltage present, then its the fuse. If there's no voltage present even after checking the fuse, check for continuity in the fuse.... and if that passes, check for voltage in the source side of the fuse recepticle.


Ok i just saw your sig... and it's a 96, not a 93 like what I thought.... yeah getting a bit absent minded here... ahaha. Well, i guess it would be the blower motor switch then. basically, take your haynes, chiltons or whatever... and jump the wires one by one... seeing that you get each and every speed setting out of it. Sounds like a bad switch unit. You can probably crack it open and clean it with QD electrical cleaner.

[Modified by D114, 3:59 AM 12/19/2002]


[Modified by D114, 4:01 AM 12/19/2002]

 

Thanks, I'm going to try it this weekend.

 

Sorry dude not much HVAC troublshooting goes on here that I've seen. Anyways I woulda said follow the troubleshooting flowchart in the Helms but looks like D114 typed it out for ya.

 

I've got the Hayes manual but it doesn't say much about the heating system, just how to take it apart and put it back together. I'm going to try the switch next.