echc folks-how many events do u get out of a set of tires?
providing no sus. parts get out of wack (ie-upper a-arm camber adjustment goodies), hoe many events do u generally get out of a set of tires?
-spenc
-spenc
ooh, good point.
actually, it realy doesnt matter. i'd perfer a few answers from each class.
-spenc
[Modified by SOLOef, 1:40 PM 12/18/2002]
actually, it realy doesnt matter. i'd perfer a few answers from each class.
-spenc
[Modified by SOLOef, 1:40 PM 12/18/2002]
H3 GSR. 2 degrees static camber at all 4 corners. Upper control arms swapped for +3 deg caster. 225-45-15 Hoosiers.
The tire *wear* is great. But I only get two fast weekends out of the Hoosiers before they're heat cycled out. Brilliant the first weekend...fast the second...approaching trash the third.
Formula V traction treatment helps for qualifying, but isn't long lived enough (in my experience) for a full race. Better than heatcycled-out tires any day though, even for a full 30 minute race.
The tire *wear* is great. But I only get two fast weekends out of the Hoosiers before they're heat cycled out. Brilliant the first weekend...fast the second...approaching trash the third.
Formula V traction treatment helps for qualifying, but isn't long lived enough (in my experience) for a full race. Better than heatcycled-out tires any day though, even for a full 30 minute race.
1992 honda civic
stock allignment...
ran used 205/50/15 on the rear....all year (4 weekends) still using them
ran used 205/50/15 on the front 3 weekends (gone...started to show cord...they had 4 weekends on them before i got them on an ITR
1 pair 205/50/15 yoko ao32r's still great shape.... also used daily driving
1 pair 225/50/15 yoko ao32r's need to be replaced....used daily driving....over 150 drag launches and i can't count how many street races....2 race weekends on the front....
1 set kumho ecstas on the front they sucked....destroyed them...one day!!
stock allignment...
ran used 205/50/15 on the rear....all year (4 weekends) still using them
ran used 205/50/15 on the front 3 weekends (gone...started to show cord...they had 4 weekends on them before i got them on an ITR
1 pair 205/50/15 yoko ao32r's still great shape.... also used daily driving
1 pair 225/50/15 yoko ao32r's need to be replaced....used daily driving....over 150 drag launches and i can't count how many street races....2 race weekends on the front....
1 set kumho ecstas on the front they sucked....destroyed them...one day!!
I am not a ECHC competitor but.....
You have got to check out the Toyo RA-1's. For the 12 Hours of Thunderhill, we used five shaved to 4/32" tires total. The only one we needed to change was the right front. The other three started & finished the race. The race was run in dry weather, btw. In case you don't know, Thunderhill wears the right side quite a bit more than the left. GRM did a test on tires not too long ago. While the Hoosiers were faster, it was less than a second a lap, if I remember correctly. In addition, the RA-1's have a more progressive breakaway & don't flat spot as easily. Definite plus for newer drivers, like me.
You have got to check out the Toyo RA-1's. For the 12 Hours of Thunderhill, we used five shaved to 4/32" tires total. The only one we needed to change was the right front. The other three started & finished the race. The race was run in dry weather, btw. In case you don't know, Thunderhill wears the right side quite a bit more than the left. GRM did a test on tires not too long ago. While the Hoosiers were faster, it was less than a second a lap, if I remember correctly. In addition, the RA-1's have a more progressive breakaway & don't flat spot as easily. Definite plus for newer drivers, like me.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
1982 RX-7, ~100rwhp
Camber: -1.25* front, 0 rear (damn solid axle)
Caster: 4*
Toe: 0 front, 0 rear
Wheels: 13x7 Panasport ULs
Suspension: Tokico Blues and TMC street/race springs with 1.5 coils removed
Tires: 205-60-13 Kumho Victoracers
The tires are good for about 15 heat cycles, or about two weekends if you have test/tune on Friday. There will be plenty of tread left, but the compound starts to lose grip. The actual tread is good for 3-4 weekends.
Typically, the top racers will only use a set of tires for qualifying once and race on them twice. Then the tires are used for test days. The top drivers also get enough test days to use up any tires they have leftover.
I usually use a set for two full weekends, then relegate them to test duty. Less tires/wheels to juggle. And I'm not fast enough that swapping tires around all the time would really help me.
Camber: -1.25* front, 0 rear (damn solid axle)
Caster: 4*
Toe: 0 front, 0 rear
Wheels: 13x7 Panasport ULs
Suspension: Tokico Blues and TMC street/race springs with 1.5 coils removed
Tires: 205-60-13 Kumho Victoracers
The tires are good for about 15 heat cycles, or about two weekends if you have test/tune on Friday. There will be plenty of tread left, but the compound starts to lose grip. The actual tread is good for 3-4 weekends.
Typically, the top racers will only use a set of tires for qualifying once and race on them twice. Then the tires are used for test days. The top drivers also get enough test days to use up any tires they have leftover.
I usually use a set for two full weekends, then relegate them to test duty. Less tires/wheels to juggle. And I'm not fast enough that swapping tires around all the time would really help me.
Trending Topics
Hoosiers
3.5 degrees up front
1.2 degrees rear
this is a very agressive setup made possible by the suspension setup I used. (motons 700/1100 heim joint links etc.) I dont begin to this this would work with Konis.
sticker tires last one NASA weekend (2 races), dirt tracking not included. must be the way I drive...
King RAT
3.5 degrees up front
1.2 degrees rear
this is a very agressive setup made possible by the suspension setup I used. (motons 700/1100 heim joint links etc.) I dont begin to this this would work with Konis.
sticker tires last one NASA weekend (2 races), dirt tracking not included. must be the way I drive...
King RAT
I have yet to race wheel to wheel, but for HPDEs on my GSR I would get about 3.5 to 4 HPDE weekends out of a set of Kuhmo VV700s.
Camber ~ -1.6, stock caster, Pro-Kit springs (push like a pig). Should be much better on my current setup + RA-1s. We will see when the ECHC season starts.
Camber ~ -1.6, stock caster, Pro-Kit springs (push like a pig). Should be much better on my current setup + RA-1s. We will see when the ECHC season starts.
my car is the same as Yack's (see above message).
well, kinda the same car; not as well built/developed (95 hatchie w/LS swap)....
weight around 2300 lbs or so.
don't know the camber; whatever it came out to when I dropped it.
stock alignment.
205-50-15 Kumho V700 Victoracers. one set for the year and still have at least 2 or 3 weekends left before steel belts show.
the Kumhos last well....
well, kinda the same car; not as well built/developed (95 hatchie w/LS swap)....
weight around 2300 lbs or so.
don't know the camber; whatever it came out to when I dropped it.
stock alignment.
205-50-15 Kumho V700 Victoracers. one set for the year and still have at least 2 or 3 weekends left before steel belts show.
the Kumhos last well....
yack and todd, did u notice the tires loosing grip as the season went on or are they still pritty good grip wise?
-spenc
-spenc
mine felt best during the second and third weekend. I didn't buy them heat cycled or shaved; they were cheapest that way ($110 per tire). I think after a couple of heat cycles and a little wear they felt best.
the last race at VIR I definitely overdrove them and they overheated and went away. they don't feel as good now as they did on the second and third race.
overall, I am very happy with the Kumhos; they last and they are cheap. I will be trying the Toyos next year, if a group buy happens, and after I wear out these Kumhos.
the last race at VIR I definitely overdrove them and they overheated and went away. they don't feel as good now as they did on the second and third race.
overall, I am very happy with the Kumhos; they last and they are cheap. I will be trying the Toyos next year, if a group buy happens, and after I wear out these Kumhos.
Honda prelude, 2680 w/ driver
225/45/15 hoosiers
Heat cycled out in 2 weekends easy..
Had no grip before they corded.. Once they loose the grip, they stay about the same level as an Azenis grip wise, good for Advanced HPDE after that..
Will be running 225/50/15 Toyo's next season, look forward to not spending my life's earnings on tires...
225/45/15 hoosiers
Heat cycled out in 2 weekends easy..
Had no grip before they corded.. Once they loose the grip, they stay about the same level as an Azenis grip wise, good for Advanced HPDE after that..
Will be running 225/50/15 Toyo's next season, look forward to not spending my life's earnings on tires...
A couple of general notes. The 2 big factors in tyre wear are (1) car setup and (2) driver.
You want to have enough static negative camber to keep the contact patch flat under full load in a corner. Otherwise, the tyre will wear faster on the outside edge. Have your car setup with the proper spring rates, shocks, and sway bars so it does not have a bunch of corner entry understear. Not enough negatve camber and a bunch of push means double wear on the outside edge. Most street setup FF cars have both. My GSR on Pro-Kits would cord VV700s on the outside in 3.5-4 weekend while the inside was maybe 1/2 worn at best. Install an LSD. Wheel spin eats tyres as well.
Lastly, over driving (pushing the car at turn in, locking up in the breaking zone, or a big sprin) will chew up tyres as well. You can avoid this at HPDEs, but in racing, I bet most poeple overdrive to some degree.
Then there is Hoosier vs the rest. The Hoosier will heat cycle out before it goes to cord. That is, once you have ran them for a while they will loose a bunch of grip and are no longer good for racing. The other tyres don't seem to have this feature and stick around 90% down to the cords. No R tyre likes to sit in the cold though. Storing them outside in winter will kill all of them.
You want to have enough static negative camber to keep the contact patch flat under full load in a corner. Otherwise, the tyre will wear faster on the outside edge. Have your car setup with the proper spring rates, shocks, and sway bars so it does not have a bunch of corner entry understear. Not enough negatve camber and a bunch of push means double wear on the outside edge. Most street setup FF cars have both. My GSR on Pro-Kits would cord VV700s on the outside in 3.5-4 weekend while the inside was maybe 1/2 worn at best. Install an LSD. Wheel spin eats tyres as well.
Lastly, over driving (pushing the car at turn in, locking up in the breaking zone, or a big sprin) will chew up tyres as well. You can avoid this at HPDEs, but in racing, I bet most poeple overdrive to some degree.
Then there is Hoosier vs the rest. The Hoosier will heat cycle out before it goes to cord. That is, once you have ran them for a while they will loose a bunch of grip and are no longer good for racing. The other tyres don't seem to have this feature and stick around 90% down to the cords. No R tyre likes to sit in the cold though. Storing them outside in winter will kill all of them.
H5 Integra, -3 degrees camber front, -1 rear. 225/50-14 Hoosiers. 2550 lbs with driver. Over agressive driver.
4 race weekends (8 practice, 8 qual, 8 races) from one set of Hoosiers, but they're shot and corded after the last race.
4 race weekends (8 practice, 8 qual, 8 races) from one set of Hoosiers, but they're shot and corded after the last race.
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