man damnit! i tried putting it on a spare upper radiator hose nose and it willnt hold. it will leak like crazy i know it. well the i dont wanna lose any stock sensors or anything. where did u guys put yours.. got pics??
this probe is huge.. it came with a 5/8 but i have one that goes to about a 3/8

 

duh.. you tee it off your factory water temp sending unit

 

i cant find a T that size..

 

dood... i was jus playin, i don't know where the hell to hook it up

 

bitch! lol

 

My mechanic and I tried several places for hooking up the autometer to my h23. We could never find anywhere that would give an accurate reading (thermastat housing, radiator hoses, etc.....). We ended up using the stock sensor. You can use the stock sensor, but the voltage is wrong so you have to create a voltage divider by wiring a resistor in series with the signal. So I recommend getting another wire with the sensor plug on it (from a junk yard maybe?) and wiring that to your autometer with a resistor in series. Only draw back is that only one of these guages will work at a time, but at least you'll be able to switch back and forth. BTW, we had a crap load of resistors so I don't remember what resistance we used. We tried resistors until it said 180 at normal operating temp.
Goodluck, Hope that helped

 

why couldn't he just splice into it, and the wire that that actually goes to the autometer could have the resistor, that way both units would work at the same time

 

circuits don't work like that, then both are gonna be inaccurate. The meter itself as well as the resistor you wire up is gonna create a voltage divider that would mess with the voltage the stock unit sees. If it was some digital value on the other hand I think that would work, but your dealing wtih an analog voltage. Please correct me if I am wrong though.

 

to be honest i think it would work.... no different than say, splicing into the O2 sending wire for an air-fuel guage... but then again, i guess that's digital

 

I'm still not totally sure, but I think looking at the stock sensor, the computer(or whatever) is measuring the voltage drop across that sensor from a (12 or 5) volt source(due to its resistance/impedance). By adding the second circuit you are effectively changing the resistance the first circuit sees across the sensor, thus making it innacurate. It is like adding a resistor in parallel expecting it to not change the voltage drop across the first resistor, but it does.....I'm not entirely sure though....my brain hurts.

 

well screw that! i got rigged up a little someting and its going to the thrttole body warming lines.. will be super accurate but it will suffice. better than the COLD, Warmer, Normal, Warmer than normal, and Hot we have on your 4gens gauges....

 

Don't do it off your stock gauge point if you cant help it. Look at the metal bolt on attachment at the front of the engine for the coolant and look to the left side of that. You should see a circle of sort which looks like there should be a sensor there. You can tap this area and use that for your water temp gauge. I have my autometer sensor located here and don't have any problems.

 

Out of curiosity TimeRacer, what does your guage read at normal operating temp? And is the place your talking about connecting the sensor at the water return line (running back to the radiator).

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id...084741#3084741

 

Check dirtylude's post to find pics of the location and more discussion about it...

My gauge reads around 180F for normal operating temp. This is around the temp the thermostat opens. It gets to around 205F or so when not moving whent he fan kicks in.

 

Unfortunately, it is not as simple as just splicing into the existing line or using the stock sensor. We looked long and hard for a location where the Autometer sensor would be covered with water and found that only the stock location worked correctly. The fact is-you will lose the stock gauge if you want an accurate reading on an analog gauge. If you can build a divider that is accurate-so be it. Also, you need to make sure that the signal does not go to the ECU. You can take a reading (less accurate) on the thermostat housing-someone has done this BTW.

 

mines not electrical and also that sensor that is there sends signals to your ECU. im not takin that out.

 

Not to say that the signal isn't used by the ECU but I had it disconnected for 12 months and had no problems or codes. The only advantage I see of doing it the way I described is at the time of my install autometer made no adapter that would allow one of their senders to fit in the stock hole. The only way to use one of their senders was to re-tap the block, which is something I was not interested in doing, especially if I ever had plans to return it to stock.

 

The upper gooseneck drilled and taped is just as accurate as the stock sensor location. It's just downstream of the stock sensor and has been used as a sensor location in the past, the hole has just been cast shut. Unless someone thinks that magicly the water temp changes in the 2 inches between the two points.

There are 2 sensors on the block in the same location on the block just before the upper gooseneck.. 1 has a single wire going to it and uses the block as ground. This one is used by the gauge on the dash and is not very accurate. There's a second, more accurate sensor with a 2 wire connector, which is used by the ECU to determine engine temp fuel and ignition correction.

 

cant tap that its to thin.. it will only catch about 1.5 threads. meanin leak.. i dont know about u guys but my adapter is huge they want me to drill a 37/64ths hole in that bitch that is huge!

 

Ya, I noticed the H23a one doesn't have the cast over flange on it like the H22a one. I never looked to see if they're interchangeable. One guy here just tapped the thin alluminum then JB welded the sensor on. If you don't want to be that ghetto you should be able to get a shop to TIG weld a flange onto it for you fairly cheap. My GM sensor is large as well with plenty of space left to be tapped on the H22a gooseneck.

 

that would be heliarched on (cant weld aluminum).. anyway i believe it might even be to thin for that. well i just put inline with my TB warming line. works fine. ive seen it up to 194 and cool around 177-180.. seems to be about the right temps

 

Heliarc is the old terminology for TIG welding. They're the same thing.

I'm sure the TB is fine. Perfect placement is really just nitpicking anyway. You just don't want it before the engine since all that really measures is your cooling effeciency, not how hot the engine is getting.