ok, i got new front rotors in, and new pads... i also bled them with new brake fluid....
when braking from highway speeds, my whole car shakes like a bitch. i can also feel it a bit driving in traffic. its such a **** off!
its like as if the rotors are warped or uneven... i duno whats up with that. its brand new! i dunno if i should get them machined. it should be perfect.

can anyone please help me out?

TIA

 

Someone else also had this problem after installing "new" rotors/pads. They ended up having to get their's turned.

 

Did you break them in ?

 

either they're warped or you got something inbetween the rotor and hub during installation.

 

what do u mean by they got their's turned?

break them in? how? i never braked very hard with the new brakes, i just drove normally. its been about 500 kms since i got them.

 

when he says he got the rotors "turned" he means he went to a brake shop and had the rotors trued up (made completely flat so they aren't warped).

also, usually when you put new pads and rotors on, you should go for a drive on the highway and do about 10 60mph to 50mph stops with a mile inbetween each stop. this will "bed in" the pads to the rotors.

 

hmm... i dont know if these new oem honda rotors will come "warped"... its the last thing on my mind.
what if they weren't bled out properly... or "fully".... i just bled them until i saw clear fluid instead of that old dirty colour... then i topped up the container.

since this was my first time doing my own brakes, i got some help from a little shop with a certified honda mechanic who i know well..... im pretty sure he did everything right. the only thing that i was unsure of is that he didnt screw on the 2 screws that hold in the rotor to the hub..... i asked him why he's not screwing them in, he told me that the threads on the hub is fucked and it wont take in the screw properly... he said it doesnt matter..... i just went with his words but i guess it does affect my brakes
im not going to that shop anymore

 

those 2 screws don't do a damn thing. they cause more problems then they are worth. all they do is hold the rotor to the hub for car assembly. the wheel lugs hold the rotor to the hub.

 

ic... i'll try the bedding in first... if its still bad im gonna have to take them to a brake shop..
thanks anyways

 

does it matter what brake fluid i use?
i believe my car is a dot 5.1
and i think he used some kind of racing fluid... motul brake fluid... it wasnt the same dot number...

argh! im just trying to think of any way there may be a problem...

wat about the rear brakes? the rears on my car are horrible... i need new drums... but does this affect my total braking on the road?

 

nope it shouldn't matter. the problem you have is definitely something mechanical.


this might not be the exact problem, but it will affect your total braking.

 

alrite, last of my questions.... (sorry breaka 1 9)

the mechanic told me that both of my driveshafts are fucked. (the end that goes into the hub is limp. it should be straight.)
even though i got new cv boots and grease in them, it still makes that knocking noise when steering because of this... but could it be the driveshafts affecting the braking? (eg. something loose in that axle causes the wheel to be unbalanced when driving)

thanks for ur help

 

the driveshafts most definitely could be casuing the problem. try to get them fixed first before you go on a rampage trying to fix/fixing problems that don't exist.

 

If your installing new axles yourself, make sure the hub ring does not fall out of place , if it does you will have a shaking, it happened to me.

 

alrite... man i think its time for me to save up again
its like $200 cdn per driveshaft

 

if you guys have an autozone or advance auto or a place like that, you can usually bring your old, broken axle in to use as a core exchange. then they charge you like $75 USD each for a new one...

 

even if they are new they should be turned, maybe they were dropped. also did you torque them down or put them on with an airgun. the air gun could warp the rotors if zipped on to tight.

 

You really turn new rotors? I have never turned them and I have changed them about 4 times now. Never had a problem. Just make sure you spray them down and clean them off to remove the anti-rust protective coating on them before you install.

 

I did it on my crx and have done it on mannnyy manny cars.....

in fact what your symptons are is exactly what happened to an instructor of mines car that I did a brake job on....

We used car quest rotors....and believe me they are not always straight and true from them...after what happened to his rotors and I started to notice with mine(car quest as well) that I atleast always abraise the rotor before installing if not put a fine slow cut on them.

What happened was we did full brakes-loaded calipers, bled, rotors, the whole works......everything went smooth and we torqued everything to spec with either a torqe wrench...and a torque stick(see alot of people dont realize but even the caliper bolts have a torque sequence and need to be adhered to becuase this causes 90 percent of brake squeaks on new brakes and rough feeling pedal)

We pulled his car in several times from complaints of high speeds and I get a vibrating pedal.....or even low speeds like 30 then to a complete stop and I get it real bad....

okay pull the wheels off and balance them-check
clean hubs of rust and clean rotors....turn rotors 180 degrees....recheck torque specs-check
okay still got the problem.....cut the front rotors...and bleed the brakes one more time....using denatured alcohal first...then fresh clean brake fluid DOT specified for the car-I CAN STRESS HOW IMPORTANT THAT IS especially on abs equipped vehicles...your car is set up for a specifid brake fluid as said on your cap.....most honda's are DOT 3 or 4 you need to use that unless youve got a really nice braking system adn run autoX.

problem went away after braking in new brakes....by doing this
10 gradually speeding up then coming to a descent stop at 30 mph...not 60 thats way to fast...then yes give about 10 15 sec each run to cool down the pads...

I can assure you that is your problem....cut the rotors....reinstall everything properly bleed it again....and break it in the right way..

 

thanks for the input kasper 1

yea i cant recall the mechanics using a torque wrench doing my brakes... they used an air gun the whole time! lazy bastards... man im never going there again!!
i will do it properly at my buddies house.. thanks for all the info guys. u've been a great help

 

what do you mean by cutting the rotors anyways?