I am in a predicament. I can't decide on whether or not to get two JL w6 v2 12" or one 12 W7. BTW huge car audio sale, very cheap on these subs. Anyways trying to save weight, so one w7 sounds good, but two w6's would be awesome. What do you guys think?

 

i would say go with the w6 if they are v2.
where is this sale? hook it up... are they on the internet? can we place phone orders? are they legit?

 

I'd take the two w6v2s over the single w7 anyday. The two subs would be a lot more dynamic and at high volumes, with all the excursion capablility of the w7, I can see it being sloppy sounding since the cone would need to travel so far back it's original resting position.

Either way, hook them up to a JL1000/1.

 

Finally someone that sees things the way I do. For low frequecies you might not notice anything though. The frequecies are low so the wavelengths are rather long and forgiving. I still say go with the W6s. I would like to see some kind of response curve for the W7s before JL convices me.

 

If you want spl, but you want sonic accuracy, it's better to go with a multiple drivers rather than a single one with ridiculous excusion capabilities.

The W7 is still a technological marvel though, I'd just rather use a W6V2.

 

I'd say take the W7. Or actually, I'd say give me the ITR because subs don't belong in a track-built car in the first place, and then you can buy yourself an LS.

 

I think i will go with the w6's if anything. OH and by the way you can take subs out of a "track built car". It's called a box.

 

sub bass has no range no matter where you put it doesnt matter the only reason they're usually in the trunk is because the wavelenghts are so long that it will sound incomplete if you here the wave at a certain point i think one W7 will sound more clear and have more deep bass then 2 W6 just my $.02

 

1132 ft/s divided by 40Hz (cycles/s) is 28.3 feet. You need 28.3 feet to propogate a 40Hz bass note and/wave, and you can't fit that in a car. You get bass by pressure loading, corner loading or the boundary effect.

 

uhh huh....I'm not touching this one with a ten footer

 

It depends what you are after, two w6v2's will be louder if you supply massive power into them but then again a single w7 will go very very loud but still retain very nice sq. IMO, go for the single w7 especially as you are trying to save on weight. A box for two w6's (which will have to be heavily braced) will add HEAPS of weight to the car.

 

BLAH on you. what I'm saying is that anything can be put in can also be taken out.

I have 2 fosgate 12s in my hatch along with a very nice system, but when I go to the track I remove them- no harm.

 

One W7 be different. Besides I have seen this sub up close and personal. Damn that ****** is huge. And no one will believe you when you tell them you only have one 12

 

must remember... one W7 will weigh almost the same as 2 W6v2s... the W7s are freakin HUGE and HEAVY... and they need a long *** box... my friend had a 10w7 and it was freaking long, looked pretty funky but sounded niceeeeeeeee with a JL 500/1

 

i would definitely go with the W6v2's. im definite that they 2 W6's will slam harder than the W7. i have 3 of them and they slam harder than my friend's 2 W7's both on RF power 1000's.

btw: The W7's actually sound really good at low volumes. Im not taking anything away from the W7's which is what i really wanted, but the W6's are badass.

 

I don't like JL but if you MUST stick with either one you must look at the pluses and minuses of the two. W7 only one sub but heavy as hell and box will be big. 2 w6s take more room and so on. I would give a look into ID Adire and so others before I go with JL. I always hear this stuff about get JL man it is awesome. There are plenty more names other then JL. The w7 is NOT the best sub out there. It is a good sub yes but no the best as there is no best in audio. But you get what you want. If I had to choose I would go with one w7 maybe but I would never go for JL so oh well just my opinion though.

 

its funny how engineering math rarely applies to practical real output in car audio. (unless youre a designer)

basic electronics/basic math/experience = yes
bachelor's degree straight out of college = no

no bash on you personally, just reminds me of a friend who used to ask me the same things. although i understood him fully, he couldnt understand that real world installs didnt necessarily follow electrical engineering theories.