First off.. this is on a '90 STD with a 1st Gen B16, bone stock except K&N drop-in and Thermal exhaust, and MSD wires.

Here's what happened, wanna see if anyone knows the problem..

I went to the track tonight, and at the gas station about 4 miles away, I stopped and added NOS Octane Booster (the offroad only formula) on a 1/4 tank of premium (91 octane) gas. I know I shouldn't have, and I had never done this before. On my first run at the track, the CEL came on in the middle of the run, and I still ran a 14.48. I tried resetting the ECU, didn't fix it. So i ran again, still consistant but still won't go off. So I went and filled the tank of with premium, hoping to dilute some of the booster. I drove a few miles, then tried to reset it and still no luck.

Now I've driven home, which is about 8 or so miles, I haven't tried resetting it again yet, but I'm wondering if something else could be wrong. A "no. 1 cylinder position" sensor doesn't sound like that would be caused form the booster. It seems to be running fine, other than the CEL, and I'm sure it's in closed-loop due to the CEL.

Any help would be really appreciated.. thanx in advance!


[Modified by guttedEF, 10:36 PM 12/12/2002]

 

well i once fixed it on my Z6 by switching the 2 cyl sensor cables... make sure none of the cables fell off the dizzy plug...
on my friends LS/VTEC the plug ofd the dizzy kept popin the pins out.... jsut a pointer.. check the cables,, reset the ecu .... see if it helps///

 

Code 9 is a distributor problem. i had to rebuild mine last time. check the magnets inside the distributor sometimes the heat from the engine causes the magnets ( which are just strans of wires ) to come undone. also. Are you having a problem revving past 7200rpms? when you take the distributor off turn the key. you should feel i constant drag. like its clicking. thats the magnets grabbing the shaft. that shaft counts the rotations. TDC sensor and #1 postion sensor. and i believe the other is crank angle sensor. If you turn the key and it really drags every 1/4 turn thats you code 9. If not closer inspection will be needed. IM me if you need help rebuilding it. I will show you how to rebuild it using a nonOBD distributor. in other words get you old stock distributor out and ill show you which parts to use.

Marc

 

Okay.. After my drive home, and the car sitting for about an hour, I checked all the wires, and reset the ECU. All I found was the the #1 spark plug wire was almost completely off on the distributor side, I pushed it on of course. Everything else looks good, nothing loose or unplugged. So that and after I reset the ECU, I started her up, and no luck. After about 5 seconds the light came back on.

One thing i did forget to mention earlier was that on the drive home, the temperature gauge on the dash was reading extremely low. It was halfway down from normal running temperature. I dunno if this means anything or not.

But like I said, there's no power loss or anything unusual. And it doesn't feel like a misfire or anything.

 

I'll have to wait until tomorrow and pull off the distributor cap and check it out. And no, it has no trouble revving. It pretty much drives just as normal.

Is it even a possibility that using such a potent mixture of that octane booster caused this? I've had the swap for atleast 6 months, and this is my first time with a CEL. And this is also my first time doing anything like this out of the ordinary.

 

Okay, I just got home from work so I'm gonna tinker witht he car some more. I did notice that my temperature gauge seams to be back to normal. I dunno what it was last night, but it was deffinatly much lower than normal.

I wanna thank you guys for helping me out.. I'll keep you guys posted if I find anything, and if anyone else has any ideas, post 'em up.

thanx again..

 

I still have found nothing. And my friend with a pw0 is out of town. So for now, I'm gonna let it run that crap out of the tank and fill it up again and try resetting the ECU. I know it probably isn't it, but it's worth a try.

 

hmm 14.4 is really good if you only have a exhaust and drop in filter, around here b16a civic/crx's arent gettting out of the 15's with more mods

 

My first few runs were around 14.9.. since then, I've just gotten more seat time, and the times have dropped.

My intake is my stock box with a drop-in K&N. I've got the JDM intake tube from an EF8/9 and I cut the inlet to the box to 3" and ran a hose into the fender like a CAI. Othat than that, it's bone stock.

 

**UPDATE**


I ended up just ordering a new distributr from Hmotorsonline, and that fixed my problem. No more code 9..

BTW, they were extremely nice on the phone. And the part was good and clean when I recieved it, but it took way longer to recieve than they told me. Took like an extra 2 weeks or so..