Anyone install the Hondata IM gasket on their lude? I was wondering how long it took you to do the install? And, if you noticed any significant gains afterwards?

 

When we install them on our customers cars it usually takes about 45min to an hour. There is alot of crap on the H22a motor that you have to go through and you have to clean up the old gasket that usually gets baked on to the head. On the Dyno we noticed a 3 to 4 HP gain throughout the powerband. To the touch it was alot cooler after running it hard.

 

Prospeed, did you hole out the EGR valve or did you just leave it blocked?

 

if you look at the hondata gasket the EGR hole is closed, and i wouldn't suggest in opening it up, because the EGR;'s responsibility is to dump burnt exaust gasses into the intake to help on economie... but since the EGR is the major component heating up the intake manifold i highly suggest closing it if not the hondata gasket is completely uterly useless...

 

How much does labour run for the installation? Doesn't look cheap to install.

 

don't know much about the H series, but the F has the coolant on the TB, we did found out that if you remove it (the FITV) the IM temps lower, i guess you could look into that too

 

Hotweels, expect a CEL if you don';t open it up however. There's still a lot of heat transferred by the connection alone.

 

My car gained about 5hp and 3tq throughout the power band and I did not cut out the hole for EGR http://www.hondata.com/dynoh22agasket.html. The trick is to do the ECU bypass modification, which will never allow your ECU to see consecutive driving cycles and therefore never throw an emissions CEL http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fifth-afc/ecu.shtml. However, if you live in an area that checks ECU codes as part of an inspection this is probably not the mod for you. Since the ECU will be reset every time the car is started the ECU will never have the required driving cycles on it that the inspectors need to properly check the ECU and most likely they will fail the car.

 

hahaha .... i live in canada no smog here (in my province yet) going to be running an AEM EMS, and not using the EGR at all, i have a prototype intake manifold setup... with a hex screw blocking that port, my mission is to hit 200whp in my ek by march when i finally put the motor together and dyno test... I hope i can hit it....

 

The only thing you're going to have to make sure of [if you don't drill out the EGR hole], is that your cooling system is in top shape. One of the functions of the EGR system is to keep combustion temps just shy of 2500°F, so NOx (one of the 5 regulated tailpipe emissions gasses) will not be formed. Ususally (temps under ~2500) nitrogen (78% of the air) will just go in the intake, thru the combustion processes, and out the exhaust, still as a diatomic nitrogen (N2). Over ~2500, oxides of nitrogen are produced. Yay.

Anyway, before you go ripping out EGR, you need to know how it works (I know this is totally repetitive for some people). It circulates inert gasses (exhaust gas) back into the air fuel mixture. This takes up some of the space that would normally be taken up by air/fuel.

Figure 5% of the total volume of a cylinder is recirculated exhaust gas, leaving the other 95% air/fuel. This will allow only 95% of the "boom" to happen, therefore lowering the combustion temperatures (the less "boom" there is, the less heat will be produced). Obviously this was the effect the emissions regulators were looking for.

Having an EGR system does allow you to run more advanced ig. timing though.

The big point here.. make sure you have a good cooling system. A few c5 vettes ran into major overheating problems due to clogged EGR lines. I know it's apples and oranges, and that's GM, but I'm just trying to make a point, and educate people before they do things. Not that I'm not going to do it myself. That EGR system isn't going to be on there too much longer for me...

-Erik

 

There is quite a bit of "junk" in the way, so it looks like quite a bit of labor time. Maybe it would be best to wait for the Skunk2 IM and do them both at the same time. (?)

Anyone have a guess on Hp gains for the Skunk2 IM for the H22? (Lets say someone dyno's before and after) Just procratinating if I should leave it stock with the Hondata gasket or breakdown and get the Skunk2 IM. (?)

 

Skunk2 is is not out, it's vaporware for the time being. I can say it gains 30 hp or -10 hp and no one could be the wiser since it's not out... Speculation on the Skunk2 manifold is pointless until it comes out.

 

I know how the EGR system works... but when running a race type application or built motor you don`t need to worry about those components.. also the added heat can be controled by other deviced... `colder plugs range`etc...

I plan on doing some extensive dyno testing times..... oh and by the way.. why don`t the b-series have an EGR system... think about it.. they make ample power on b20vtec`s so a 2.0 litre that can make 240whp and we are working on prelude that have 2.2 factory displacement and have a hardtime to make 200whp let alone 240, even member 2point6 with a stroker and the whole kit doesn`t make 240 whp like the b20vtec motor built by ėmportbuilders`so.... when you really compare it... i`m sure it can be ripped out....

EGR`s are mostly to yes lower exaust temps, but to lower exaust temps you sacrifice air purity which is power, in order to make power you will generate heat, everybody know`s this...

i`m sure you didn`t know that the further you place the injectors in your runner you actually gain more power....

rest assured my isolator gasket that i machined, is almost 3/4 thick, and its made at an angle not like hondata which is completely flat and also restricts air flow into the runners at a descrete (0 degree) angle which our manifolds are placed under a 10 degree angle.. so yes you do loose some potential power, mine is rounded and takes that 10 degree angle and fluently matches the head... the further you place the injector you have better atomization, even though ti`s not directly pointing at the valves it still makes power because it`has better chances of atomizing the fuel before hitting the valve and enducing turbulance upon entering the chamber... look up `twm throttlebody`s`and read what they say... you`ll be amazed.. my manifold is still being worked on, and i`m planning on having two sets of injectors and potentially have a set that works at high rpm compare to low rpm with a relay... and dyno test the affects after certain distances... i`m sure theirs potention lost power for high reving applications...

there are plenty of things that can be done for a motor... building, testing.. and prototyping stuff... the things that make the most power aren`t mass produced.. they are kept for themselves for racing.. so i`m sure you won`t see the perfect manifold for sale you`ll always have the mid range one or a little better for stock, nobody is going to release the mighty one, because then the secrets would be out... why can`t you buy a JUN intake manifold by itself... think about it... yes i know it`s built for that motor, but nevertheless give it a good cam that breaths and any manifold will flow exceptionally well......

i gotta run but this should be some food for thought....

 

I installed my own Hondata IM gasket during my JRSC install. It took me a full day and nearly a full can of gasket remover to clean off the entire stock paper gasket from the head. Other than that, I found it to be a fairly easy install.