Yet another Wideband o2 topic.
I was reading the new Sport Compact car and came across this http://www.fjoinc.com/automotive/products.htm#wbo2
Now, im probably betting everybody has already seen this company and their products except me
. Now, my questions are these...
1. I was told by a shop that when i dyno im going to need a second o2 "bung" drilled into my header...Am i still goin to need this with a wideband o2 and A/F meter???
2. If i purchase a wideband from the site listed above...do i have to have the sensor controller at the top of that page??
Thanks
Now, im probably betting everybody has already seen this company and their products except me
. Now, my questions are these...1. I was told by a shop that when i dyno im going to need a second o2 "bung" drilled into my header...Am i still goin to need this with a wideband o2 and A/F meter???
2. If i purchase a wideband from the site listed above...do i have to have the sensor controller at the top of that page??
Thanks
No you don't need another bung.......you want to pull your stock O2 and use the wideband in it's place
And yes, you need the controller.....my shop uses an FJO, and it's a GREAT unit! Only problem is that getting replacement O2's is a pain in the *** because they're always backordered....
Brian
And yes, you need the controller.....my shop uses an FJO, and it's a GREAT unit! Only problem is that getting replacement O2's is a pain in the *** because they're always backordered....
Brian
If you pull the stock O2 then what is the ECU going to read. It needs to read from the stock O2 otherwise you'll through a code. Which i guess is ok, but i'd like not to stare at a check engine light all the time.
The wideband O2 will fry the ECU. Its to powerful. Just get a new one somewhere in you exhuast just right passed the stock O2 ( that way if its before the stock O2 and you make changes with the Wide O2 reading, the Stock O2 will try to counter what you did and run richer/leaner ) Just run with 2 O2's who cares.
having an additional bung welded on is not expensive. also keep in mind, you dont want to drive with your wideband ALL the time, they are usually proned to last 1000 miles. below is my engine, on the downpipe you can see the large nut where the wideband 02 sensor is used:
Why do you want a wideband? Judging from what you've said you still have the stock ECU. You really don't have the tuning ability to get the best use of a full time wideband sensor. It would be more economical to just use a shops wideband while tuning.
The FJO is a nice unit. I have one. Like other widebands it uses a 5volt output that's meant to be connected to a standalone ECU, rather than the 1 volt output the stock O2 sensor uses.
That bung on the downpipe pictured is too far up the pipe.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=348275
Also EUGO sensors, which the FJO uses, can be used for a very long time before losing noticeable accuracy. They're standard equipment on the old Honda VX and are not just meant as short term test equipment.
I have a summary of the unit and the display on PO.com, I'll copy it here.
The FJO is a nice unit. I have one. Like other widebands it uses a 5volt output that's meant to be connected to a standalone ECU, rather than the 1 volt output the stock O2 sensor uses.
That bung on the downpipe pictured is too far up the pipe.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=348275
Also EUGO sensors, which the FJO uses, can be used for a very long time before losing noticeable accuracy. They're standard equipment on the old Honda VX and are not just meant as short term test equipment.
I have a summary of the unit and the display on PO.com, I'll copy it here.
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Originally posted by DirtyLude
I got my FJO controller last week. I just wanted to show the details on it. It's actually a really nice unit.
This is it:

A. 4 wire connector (1) Power for the unit, (2) Ground, (3) 5 volt a/f signal for the standalone, and (4) ground for signal wire
B. Coax connector for a RPM signal pick up. The pickup looks like the clamps that are on timing guns. It clamps on an ignition wire. I was going to make up my own since the FJO one is $77.00. Just cut the pickup off of my $25.00 timing gun and connect it up, but I'll be using the tach wire instead.
C. Green tach wire input. I can hook this up to the ignition signal wire to input rpm's for datalogging.
D. Blue 5 volt input wire. This and the green tach wire are strictly datalogging inputs the controller does nothing with the information but pass it on through the serial port.
E. Datalogging / Display 4 pin connector. This can connects to the display box or the data cable that goes to your PC or PDA.
F. 8 pin - 5 wire O2 sensor connector. The wire is real short; only 3/4 of a meter. That's 30 inches for you Americans.
This is the display:

I'm disappointed in the 3 digit display. The thing is huge. Judging by it's weight there's pretty much nothing inside to justify the size of the box.
I didn't actually order the display I ordered the connectivity kit, but I'm glad I got the display by mistake. It looks like the connectivity kit is a $5.00 serial cable and the datalogging software. The manual is nice enough to give the specs on the serial data sent and received by the controller and I'm just going to make up my own cable and write the datalogging software myself. It looks pretty easy.
I'm replacing these GM weatherpak connectors with Deutsche connectors that I have. They're a little nicer.
Thanks to Dustin on H-T.net that found the 8pin O2 sensor connector is an OBD I connector that's on OBD 1 engine harnesses. I'm going to salvage a male and female connector and make an extension to the plug which will make it easier to temporarily connect it to other peoples cars for tuning.
I'll be installing it in my own car tomorrow. I'll have more details then.
I got my FJO controller last week. I just wanted to show the details on it. It's actually a really nice unit.
This is it:

A. 4 wire connector (1) Power for the unit, (2) Ground, (3) 5 volt a/f signal for the standalone, and (4) ground for signal wire
B. Coax connector for a RPM signal pick up. The pickup looks like the clamps that are on timing guns. It clamps on an ignition wire. I was going to make up my own since the FJO one is $77.00. Just cut the pickup off of my $25.00 timing gun and connect it up, but I'll be using the tach wire instead.
C. Green tach wire input. I can hook this up to the ignition signal wire to input rpm's for datalogging.
D. Blue 5 volt input wire. This and the green tach wire are strictly datalogging inputs the controller does nothing with the information but pass it on through the serial port.
E. Datalogging / Display 4 pin connector. This can connects to the display box or the data cable that goes to your PC or PDA.
F. 8 pin - 5 wire O2 sensor connector. The wire is real short; only 3/4 of a meter. That's 30 inches for you Americans.
This is the display:

I'm disappointed in the 3 digit display. The thing is huge. Judging by it's weight there's pretty much nothing inside to justify the size of the box.
I didn't actually order the display I ordered the connectivity kit, but I'm glad I got the display by mistake. It looks like the connectivity kit is a $5.00 serial cable and the datalogging software. The manual is nice enough to give the specs on the serial data sent and received by the controller and I'm just going to make up my own cable and write the datalogging software myself. It looks pretty easy.
I'm replacing these GM weatherpak connectors with Deutsche connectors that I have. They're a little nicer.
Thanks to Dustin on H-T.net that found the 8pin O2 sensor connector is an OBD I connector that's on OBD 1 engine harnesses. I'm going to salvage a male and female connector and make an extension to the plug which will make it easier to temporarily connect it to other peoples cars for tuning.
I'll be installing it in my own car tomorrow. I'll have more details then.
You could use the wideband sensor and controller in replacement of the stock o2 if the controller has a programmable analog output. I am sure the FJO does, just as the Motec PLM does. You could follow the stock o2's outputs from the helms and program the analog output to send 0-1.25 volts DC (lean to rich) to the ecu. A buffer circuit can be made for @ $2.00 for added security......
also keep in mind, you dont want to drive with your wideband ALL the time, they are usually proned to last 1000 miles.
You could use the wideband sensor and controller in replacement of the stock o2 if the controller has a programmable analog output. I am sure the FJO does, just as the Motec PLM does. You could follow the stock o2's outputs from the helms and program the analog output to send 0-1.25 volts DC (lean to rich) to the ecu. A buffer circuit can be made for @ $2.00 for added security......
[QUOTE]Why do you want a wideband? Judging from what you've said you still have the stock ECU. You really don't have the tuning ability to get the best use of a full time wideband sensor. It would be more economical to just use a shops wideband while tuning.[QUOTE]
Oh, so i have to have a standalone to use the wideband...I didnt know that
[Modified by 3gLudeH22A, 10:42 PM 12/13/2002]
Oh, so i have to have a standalone to use the wideband...I didnt know that
[Modified by 3gLudeH22A, 10:42 PM 12/13/2002]
Well, you don't NEED a standalone to use a wideband, but if you have no way of altering your fuel and/or ignition curves (i.e. no way to tune), then having a wideband would more or less be a waste of money.
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