Who here runs Mobil 1 Motor oil in there tranny?? 5W30 or 10W30?? Are there any side effects that might come with mobil 1 sythetic in a Honda transmission?? It would be going in a 5-speed 97 civic EX (D16Y8). Or is convensional oil highly recomended?? Thanks

 

I think most people will recommend you go to your local honda dealer and buy a couple quarts of honda MTF.

 

From what I understand Honda tranys need a required amount of friction to work properly. Full synthetic oil doesn't provide the syncros with enough friction thereby, diminishing there life span and their ability to do their job. Honda MTF is a semi-synthetic oil which the Honda dealership in my area recommends. Needless to say, I use semi-synthetic.

 

redline mtl in my tranny

 

Does anyone out there run Mobil 1 in there tranny?

 

Yes I do.

It works great... I had grinds b4 I changed it and don't now. It's still a bitch to get into reverse.

However from what I've heard... the mtf is just plain better. I have no idea if that's actually the case or not... I'm fine with how the tranny is now. oh and ya 5/30 that's what it recomended so that's what I used.

Plus I have a concern about mixing the mtf with the oil that's already in there. (I don't know if people flushout there tranny's first or not. and I'm not looking to mix crap when I don't KNOW that it's ok to do so.)

 

I put just staight up motor oil in my tranny. No synthetic. I used some thick stuff like 20-50 or something cause it would grind going into third with anything thinner.

after 20,000 miles and many 6k+ launches at the track on slicks it still holds up.

 

GM Syncromesh

 

DO NOT RUN MOBIL 1 IN YOUR TRANNY OR MOBIL SYTHETIC TRANNY FLUID!!!

Mobil 1 is a MOTOR oil. It is NOT made for trannies.

Mobil Synthetic TRANSMISSION oil is API GL5 spec. Honda's require API GL4 spec.

If you use either of these, you will shorten the tranny life by half!

If you want to run sythetic tranny oil in your Honda, get Red Line MTL, Red Line MT-90 or Neo 7W. I use Red Line MTL in the winter and Red Line MT-90 in the summer. I suggest you do the same!

 

what about Mobil 1 synthetic auto tranny fluid? my helms manual said it had to be dexron 2 or 3, thats it. just wondering...

 

Auto trannies are a whole different matter, particularily in Hondas. Honda slushboxes are supposed to be flushed. It isn't just a matter of draining the fluid, changing the filter, and filling it up with synthetic. My recommendation tor [Honda] auto tranny owners is to take your ride to the dealer and have it done RIGHT.

Whenever 'we' have this discussion, that is the general consensus. However, another question always arises. So, in anticipation of that question, I will say that I do not know if the dealer can or will install the synthetic tranny fluid after the tranny has been flushed. You'll have to ask your dealer that.

If anyone happens to know the answer, shoot...

 

Well, you got it - sorta...

Syncros require a certain amout of friction to work. They are really nothing more than brass cogs that slide into steel dogs; hardly high-tech. They basically 'crash' into place. If the tranny oil is too slippery or thick, it takes them a while to lock into place, e.g. grind into place.

Without getting too carried away with an excessively long explanation, the problem with CiViC trannies is they aren't really trannies at all. They are TRANSAXLES. That is, the transmission gears and differential gears are located in the same case and share the same oil.

Generally speaking, differentials require very thick hypoid gear oil, heavily laden with sulphur to preclude foaming or frothing. Transmission gears will work okay in all sorts of different oils - but high sulphur content will eat up brass bushings and syncros.

So, to make a long story short, the oil required in a transaxle is a matter of compromise. It has to be thick enough and 'slippery' enough to protect the differential gears, yet thin enough for the transmission gears and syncros, while at the same time devoid of excessive sulphur content so it doesn't eat up the brass bushings and so forth. That would be API GL4 spec gear oil.

Really, do yourself a favor and put some GOOD oil in your tranny. Honda MTF sucks. Most everything else will kill your tranny in quick order. Get Red Line MTL/MT-90 or Neo 7W and put your mind at ease. A CiViC tranny only takes 2 quarts of oil. For less than 20 bones, you can be running the best oil in the world in your sh!tbox, eliminating wear, increasing power, smoothing shifts, yada, yada, yada. This is the WRONG place to get chincy...

 

Honda OEM MTF Sucks? Are you sure?

 

So is Mobil 1 syn. best coice for Motor Oil? And what kind of Filter? Honda (blue) or Hamp (green)????

 

Almost exact same, however HAMP has a more 'flow" filteration which is good for race use.

So iv'e been told.


[Modified by w00t!, 11:02 PM 12/11/2002]

 

Yes, I am sure!

The proof is that MANY problems, like 'notchy' shifting and 'popping' out of reverse will go away by simply dumping that factory **** and refilling your tranny with Red Line MTL.

If you don't mind these kinds of problems, stick with the factory dinosaur juice...

 

Yes, Mobil 1 is the best synthetic oil for the price, especially since they decided to add the 'Super-Syn' package to it. This new 'Mobil 1 w/Super-Syn' formulation was basically designed for Top Fuel racecars. It worked so good, Mobil/Exxon decided to give it to everyone.

Honda OEM filters suck! The 'made in Canada' OEM filters, aka Canuckistan, are actually FRAM filters, painted blue, and no better than the 2/$5 variety you get at Wal-mart. The 'made in USA' OEM filters are better. You cannot get the 'made in Japan' version, which is best. As usual, the Japs have kept the best for themselves; same ol' story...

The jury is still out on the HAMP's. HAMP stands for Honda AfterMarket Parts and is Honda's 'bargain-basement' line. You know, stuff that isn't good enough to put their name on.

My reasoning is this - if a HAMP filter isn't good enough to have Honda's name on it, and Honda is putting their name on FRAM filters, then HAMP has got to be worse than FRAM. Right?

Add to this the fact that HAMP products are mostly recycled **** designed to empty out salvage yards in Japan, be "refurbished" and sold to unsuspecting 'Yankee Doodle Dandies' under the guise of recycling.

That's why HAMP products are green. Get it? Green = save the Earth by emptying out Jap salvage yards and selling recycled **** to American tree-huggers.

http://world.honda.com/environment/e...y_chapter4.pdf

Anyway, I'm a Purolator PureONE lover. These are what I use. I prefer the over-sized PL24458 filter, however, the PL14459 OEM 'teacup' design will work in a pinch.



You guys do what you want. It's your rides. I'm just trying to add a little personal insight to the discussion. Whether or not you trust my judgement is up to you...

 

personally i use the bosch premium oil filter.

heres a useful website that questions the oem honda(canada and usa filter).

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

 

Yeah, Bosch PREMIUMS are okay...

As far as Bosch filters are concerned, there are two different ones. The regular Bosch filters are made by Champ Labs. Here's a link:

http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/Fi...ardOilFilters/

Bosch Premiums are made by Filtech. They are every bit the equal of the much ballyhooed [Champ Labs] Mobil 1 IMHO. Here's a link:

http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/Fi...iumOilFilters/

Been there; done it. Still like the PureONE better!

Let's get back on topic, okay? Don't want to be accused of hijacking another thread...

 

Is me using Chevron gas ok with you too?

 

A serious word of caution to experimenters: if you are thinking of trying out different filters, or ones we haven't listed here, be careful! In the course of testing, I tried a Purolator PureOne oversized filter (PL10193); it leaked pretty bad. Upon inspection, I found the gasket to be MUCH too large, large enough that the oversized M1-105 filter (and M1-104, OEM size) gasket actually fit inside it. If you experiment, be very careful, and look over the filter before testing it. Check the filter immediately upon starting the motor and look for leaks. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on it, and monitor oil pressure if possible.

Ever had that problem?

 

just adding my two cents about oil filters, okay?





[Modified by ejprimo, 4:44 PM 12/12/2002]

 

I've corresponded with Todd Marcucci several times, via e-mail, on this issue. I told him he used the wrong filter. I suggested he use a PL24458, which is actually made for pre-'90s Hondas. To make a long story short, he had planned on doing revisions and updates to that article, but he has received so much "hate mail", he doesn't give a **** any more. I tried to tell him about all the "hate mail" I've received over the years, but that didn't offer much encouragement...

Anyway, no, I have not had that problem, 'cause I don't use Dodge Colt oil filters on my car. The over-sized PL24458 is a Honda filter and it works fine. Here's a quick 'n' dirty pic of one on my CiViC - plenty of room; no leaks:

 

from http://kozmik.guelph.on.ca/gtdprojec...il_filters.htm :

"For North American filters, Bosch has subcontracted the making of the filters to Champion. Yes this is the same company that got the highest rating in the Toyota oil filter test above."

"Purolator Pureone. Looks great, but seems like they have put to much filter element material in the filter. I see this filter being amazing, but plugging early. Also see issues with cold thick oil."

 

Did you even bother going to the official Bosch Premium filter web site? Do it, then come back and tell us what it says...

http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/Fi...miumOilFilters/