I just finished swapping out the H23A1 in my 92 prelude SI for a Jap Spec H22A1 and I'm having problems. I have added the following mods during the swap, AEM cold air intake & pulley's, Lightened Flywheel, DC header, Apexi Exhaust, B&M Fuel Guage & regulator, Hollowed out the Cat, new plugs, wires, dis cap & rotor, fuel filter, timing belt & water pump. My problem is that the car runs good till it warms up and then it bogs down bad till you hit 3 to 4 grand and it eats fuel. I've tried taking fuel out, adding more fuel, taking timing out and advancing the timing but nothing seems to work. I've trouble shot about every dam sensor, check vacumme lines and I'm about to set it on fire it's pissing me off so badly. Need help

Yeah I'm using the H22A Intake manifold and we checked the TPS sensor so I don't think thats it and I have the plugs gapped to Stock spec per my factory Honda service manual. I'm using the H22A injectors with the H23A1 fuel rail. The secondarys seems to be working too because I watched the linkage move when I gave it gas.



[Modified by Zabrawsb, 11:02 AM 12/5/2002]

 

1) Are you running premium fuel?
2) Clean your fuel injectors
3) What's you fuel pressure?
4) No ecu codes?
5) What ecu?

By the way H22A1 is not jap spec, that's a USDM engine. JDM engines are H22A only on the block.


[Modified by satan_srv, 10:17 AM 12/5/2002]

 

Yeah I've put fresh gas in it. I've tried leaning it out and puttting more fuel in it with no luck. Right now I think it around 32psi at idle and I'm running a US spec prelude Vtec ECU and it's not throwing any codes. It just doesn't make any sense why it would run fine till it warms up and then it bogs out badly.

 

Sorry it's a H22A right on the front of the block

 

Until the car warms up it is in open loop, runs rich, life is good. Once it goes into closed loop and starts reading all the sensors you are having a problem.

I think your fuel pressure should be more like 38-40 psi at idle...

 

Yeah I've tried cranking up the fuel to 38 with no luck and the stock setting per the Honda manuel is 24 to 31.

 

Really I thought it was much higher...

Your map sensor may be faulty...try swapping in a known good one...

Are you sure you're not getting any check enginge lights...maybe the panel is burnt out...

 

Thats funny you said the map sensor cause I put a new one in last night with NO LUCK And the check engine light comes on when I put the jumper wire in to adjust the timing, so it's not burnt out.

 

Are your secondary IABs working?

You know hesitation is a fairly common problem...4bidden has had it forever in that rpm range...

 

What are your spark plugs gapped at?


[Modified by Prelude_RCR, 9:41 AM 12/5/2002]

 

make sure your tps sensor plug and map sensor plug are reveresed.....

 

not reversed

 

damn i suck!

 

Are you using the H23 or H22 Intake manifold, cuz the fuel injector from H23 is 240cc and you need 345cc

 

H23 manifold won't bolt up to an H22a head.

 

Try running colder spark plugs. JDM H22A's run best on heat range "7" NGK plugs, rather than the "6" heat range USDM motors call for.

 

Well, damn! We're stumped!

Have you done a compression test?

 

sounds like O2 sensor since it only does it after the vehicle is warmed up (goes into closed loop fuel sensing)

inspect your O2 sensor and it's wiring for damage

 

1) Try using a stock fuel pressure regulator instead of the b&m. Is the b&m an
adjustable fpr? if so, i be thats the problem.
2) are the h23a and h22a fuel rails the same?
3) Did you check to see if the timing belt is correctly installed? By any chance,
did it jump? It could be off by a tooth... double check it.

Honestly i think the problem is fuel related since you said it eats up fuel. Also, are you selling your stock h23a1 by any chance? If so, drop me an email at jdmh23a@aol.com with a price. thanks

 

Seems like every week I read a problem about someone new with the dreaded hesitation. A few things I'd like to mention about some above mentioned suggestions...

1) I replaced my o2....no luck
2) I have a stock fpr
3) no CEL
4) I've tried new 6 and 7 heat range plugs

I'd love nothing more to figure it out....but it doesn't seem easy. The injectors will be going out to RC very soon to make sure they're not the culprit. Other than that, I'm pretty stumped. Gets very annoying also when it kills my 1/4 time by 4/10!!!


[Modified by 4bidden, 11:24 AM 12/6/2002]

 

Well I got it to run alot better lastnight. I advanced the timing all the way and I was missing this cold air valve on the intake manifold, it was blocked off on the H22A so I pulled it off the H23. It's not detenating. Tried a new map sensor and it ran the same, it's already got a new O2 sensor. Tried hotter/cooler plugs really no change at all. My problem is that I have a Clutchmaster lightened flywheel and I thing the timing marks are different. It's drivable a still bogs a little down in lower RPM range, so I cranked up the fuel pressure and that didn't really seem to help much. The stock setting is 24-31 and I tried 32 to 38 and it seems to run the same except it pulls alot harder with more fuel at higher RPM. I think the timing seems to be my problem like maybe the belt is off by a tooth, but thats going to be a B!&T# to fix. Don't think I'll be doing that till I get cam gears & cams but I still need to mess around and get the fuel dialed in too which could help. But apparently this seems to be a common problem with preludes, but trust I feel everyones pain with this one cause I almost pushed it into the street and torched it the other night Just have to keep tuning it I guess

 

Timing marks are different?

No they shouldn't be! They should have the marks in the stock location...

Bro you need to check your cam timing stat.

 

it might be your ideal air control valve, my lude was doing the same thing and that was the problem, it is very common for this to happen to hondas,i know other people that this is happen to.

 

But I thought thats just if you have irratic idle cause it idle's fine. It's the sensor on the front of the intake manifold that has coolant running thru it.

 

something like this happen to me too. and it was my cam caps, they were a lil loose. with me, my rmps would go to about 2500 too 3000 and just went boggle and died. when cars have been used a while the cam caps tend to get lil' loose. i don't remember how pounds of torque was used.
tools needed:
torque wrench
book that has specs on how much torque in needed