Can anyone tell me witch company makes them(oem size please)?
thank you..........

 

http://www.importdevelopment.com or any Spoon reseller.

Bling to max baby! I hope you aren't planning to use these on the track.

 

Bling bling y0!!!!! Fo shure Jerry P wezzey gonna be cookin at the fizzle dizzle track wif mah crizzled dizzled rizzles y0!!!!!

 

Why? don't you know that solid disks are better than slotted and crossdrilled? must be for the bling-bling...

 

why is that ? my brakes seems to be fading pretty bad under hard driving?
wouldnt the crossdrill or sloted rotors help?
please explane why ?
I need to upgrade my brakes but I want to keep my 16s.........
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!

 

Oh and another thing.........
if the crossdrill rotors or sloted are so bad, why do track cars have them?
I just want to be safe to know that I could stop when driving hard......
THANK YOU.......

 

Well, most road racing cars nowadays don't use cross drilled and stick with slotted. Unless you have 1950's brakepads, then you don't need cross drilled because outgassing is not a problem anymore.

 

Also crossdrilled has a greater tendecy to crack and cannot be resurfaced without a great deal of trouble. And now you are probably gonna say why do Porsches come with crossdrilled rotors stocks, when the Porsches crossdrilled rotors are cast with the holes in them, unlike regular crossdrilled that are blanks then drilled to make the that way. Sounds like to me you just need to get some better brake pads, steel braided brake lines, and some ATE Super Blue, problem solved

plus it's cheaper

 

buy some better brake pads.

http://www.cobaltfriction.com

 

that sounds very good to me...........
which pads have anybody tried? how are they?

 

http://www.brakezone.com
Contact Sherwin!

Tan


[Modified by tanman, 12:22 AM 12/10/2002]


[Modified by tanman, 12:23 AM 12/10/2002]

 

Both slotted or cross drilled rotors are far more likely to crack than blanks, when subjected to a track level environment. Cast or post cast probably doesn't make much of a difference. The last guy to show up at a track day in a serious car with cross drilled rotors (a Supercharged Z06) lasted a whopping 20 minute track session before he cracked the rotors. What really sucked was that he didn't have spares and couldn't drive any of the other four sessions that day.

Crossdrilled rotors are pretty high on my list of "No-Fast" parts.

Why does Porche cross drill theirs? A thread concerning this erupted on another board some time back. Eventually, a response from Porche amounted to "Better Wet Weather Performance" and some crap about customer demand.

-------------------------------

The stock pads are perfect for the car in a non or light track capacity and autox. For the life of me, I cannot think of a good reason to run aggressive pad materials on the street. Ok, if you are too lazy to swap them back out after spending a day at the track.

I've been using Panther+ pads the last year and I fall into the too lazy to swap them out catagory. Notables include the inability of the car to stop first thing in the morning. The more agressive the pad material the worse a pads cold weather performance. Pads that are poor in the cold, tend to work really well when the brakes are in the 1000 degree F range though.

A big negative for all the Blinger's out there is that the more aggressive pad materials tend to dust. For example, I can wash my car and the next day my silver OEM rims are "Gunmetal" from all the dust.

If you can slam the brakes and engage the ABS in typical conditions with your car... You don't need a more agressive material unless you are tracking the car.

On a side note: Running Hawk Blues on your Blvd Cruiser is about as wanna-be as you can get.

 

Thank you Jerry, always a pleasure to read your posts.

 

thank you for the information..........