Aghh... I got all of the other rotor screws out except for the last one, and now it's stripped

I used an impact driver, but it must've slipped, cause there's no head left to this bugger whatsoever. What are my options? The car is UNREGISTERED, sitting on jackstands awaiting a bumper, headlights and a fender.. so time isn't really of the essence. Anyone have any ideas?

 

drill it out and buy a new one.

Might try those new bits that are suppose to take out stripped screws.

 

Dremel a new slot into it. Go at it with a flat head screwdriver. Worked twice for me. Toss the stupid screws in the trash and don't bother replacing them when finished.

 

How do you drill out a screw that's flush with the rotor? I've never attempted anything like that before.

Again.. how would I dremel it, since it's flush with the rotor? If you could be more descriptive I'd appreciate it man!
thanks for the tips thus far

 

you'll end up cutting th rotor a bit, but it's ok. I dont' really pull my rotors off to much, but the few times I did, I replaced the ones that looked suspect. but take a big dirll bit and drill into the screw and try to "bite the head" off and wehn yu pull the rotor off, just use pliers to remove the screw. good luck.

 

Sears makes an extractor that may work. Otherwise I have used a small drillbit and cut a groove into the screw (drill a bunch of small holes right next to each other). then using a power screwdriver push as hard as you can and hope it turns. I would use a dremel (or even a drill w/dremel bit). Go look at the hardware store or home depot at the dremel cutters. I am sure you can find one to cut a new groove.

 

I used the Sears bit before. It works well.

 

The sears one as said before, and also look for a "reverse" drill bit... when you start drilling in, it will catch, and sometimes (more often than not) get the screw out without too much trouble.

hth

 

That actually happened to me yesterday. We were using an impact screw driver, and the damn screw BENT the phillips bit. After trying about 4 or 5 other methods, I finally gave up and brought it to a dealer who took them out. I hate screws

 

Finally got it out today. Mucho thanks to: a drill, a dremel, a hammer, impact driver, and last but most certainly not least a crowbar!

 

Crowbar, thais just plain overkill. I simple drill is all you need. Get a bit thats same diamiter as the screw and drill through the head. once the head is off you can take the roter off and twist out the remaining tip by hand. I just put on my Brembo blanks this weekend. that process worked perfectly. For the dude who ended up taking the car to dealer, if you cant deal with small complications... maybe you should find a good mechanic for stuff like breaks cuz dealer's will rip you off like crazy. Subaru dealer in Queens (lichtenberg Subaru) wanted more than $1000 to change my roters and pads. and not brembo's or anything special... just plain OEM.

 

1k Good god!
Yeah, a Ford dealer charged my girlfriend's dad $90 to change spark plugs. I wanted to cry when I heard that.
As far as me taking it to the dealer for the screws go, we just didn't have the tools we needed to be sure that'd we finish it then and there, and I COULD NOT afford to have the car out of commission for any lenght of time, so I figured I'd just bite the bullet. They did it for pretty cheap though. At least I can say that that's the first time I've had to go to a dealer for help, out of the 10 billion complications that I've run into since I've had the car, so my track record is still at least half decent

 

heat it and it comes out easy

 

smack it with a hammer sometimes the bolt is slightly rusted on there and it just needs a good flat whack to break the seal the rust has formed.

 

Please tell me you were using an impact driver...

 

 

I've always wondered about those screws...are they neccesary?

I'd like to hear argument for and against reinstalling the screws...and you theory behind it

 

 

I don't think they are necessary, but since they were there before, **** it..put them back on...I just buy new ones.

 

The screws are redundant, the wheel will keep the rotor tight against the hub when the wheel is installed. If using these screws use plenty of antiseize and don't torque down too much, they just keep the rotor in place when the wheel isn't on the car.

 

the same thing heppened to me the other day, and I broke my impact driver philips attachment. Pissed me off royally

I like to grab my fine point punch, and a hammer. Place the punch so it is able to cut into the screw head. Hit the punch with the hammer in the counterclockwise direction, and watch the screw break free.

I had to do this last might so I could clean and paint all of my front suspension bits.

 

I haven't had to remove mine yet, but another idea I've heard to make removing the screws easier is to put the lugnuts back on the lugs and tighten them against the rotor. This in theory should remove stress from the screws so they'll come out easily.

Now whether the lugnuts are deep enough for the full length of the lugs is another matter; you may need open-ended nuts from the hardware store.

 

when I did my brake rotors and pads I didn't bother replacing those screws... their just 2 little screws and held in place by the rim/lugs anyway.... there is the torque place/pad cage which will hold the rotor in place AND also when you have your rims on you have the rim and 4 lug nut/bolts holding the rotor in place... as long as everything is torqued to spec on each lug nut your fine... I figure if the lug nuts/wheel comes loose/flys off.. the brake rotor is the least of my problems...

I guess you got the screws out.. I was going to suggest the drill out extractors..