The last big thread I posted with a bunch of pics of my were right when I completed the car. I fugured I'd post up some more pics of the car that are more recent.

Here:

Motor shots?







Here's me auto-Xing it too. I built the car to drive hard, not to sit up like a show queen.





Right rear wheel, we have liftoff!



If anyone's curious, here's the specs for the car (updated since that old May post):

Body:

1992 Honda Civic CX
Completely color changed from Milano Red to Vogue Silver Metallic
Body completely smoothed over
Brand new front fenders, new front and rear bumpers, new hood, all brand new O.E-Honda exterior trims including mirrors, side skirts, roof rails, front lip, door sash and belt moldings, hood cowl piece, windshield moldings, rear 1/4 glass trims, washer nozzles
O.E Honda antenna block-off plate
New headlights
Fake Vision Amber corners

Powerplant:

1998 Integra Type R B18C5 engine
AEM 99-00 Civic Si intake
DC JDM 4-1 header with 2.5'' collector
CarSound 2.5'' cat
Tanabe Super Medallion Racing Spec exhaust (the full stainless one)
Skunk2 camgears
Kenji-spec P28 ECU (reprogrammed for optimal ITR specs)
Integra GS-R double-wide O.E radiator

Transmission:

1998 Integra Type R S80 LSD transmisson
ClutchNet 6-puck sprung hub disc with double diaphram pressure plate
ATS 4.929FD (now broken, but I will get another!)
Tranny was torn down and completely rebuilt with all-new O.E Honda bearings, brand new 3rd gear synchro, and seals
DC Sports short shifter (flat-blacked for O.E look)
Spoon Shift **** y0!!!

Suspension and brakes:

Koni Yellows
Eibach ERS coil-over springs with custom rates - 425F 550R
Integra GS-R 14mm rear swaybar
All four corners of Integra GS-R suspension arms including LCAs, spindles, including rear and larger front disc brakes
Integra RS booster and 15/16ths non-ABS master cylinder (direct bolt-in, no line bending or reflaring)
Intgera GS-R 4040 prop valve
Brebmo slotted rotors
Earl's Stainless lines
Energy Suspension full suspension bushing master set installed ( what a pain! )
Skunk2 front upper control arms with 3 degree camber adjustability

Wheels/tires:

Bronze Rota Circuit 8 in 15x6.5
Falken Azenis in 205-50-15

Interior (funny):
1997 Integra GS-R "Type D" black seats (only running front 2 right now, but I have the backs)
1992-1995 Civic Si/EX cluster with 9000rpm tach
1998 Integra Type R steeing column with tilt and leather-wrapped steering wheel
O.E Honda radio block-off plate
A/C block off button
No carpet, rear seats, headliner, door panels, interior plastics, etc.

Oh yeah and here's an old-*** pic of the car right after it was picked clean of everything and ready to get painted:



The car has run a 13.3@101mph with a crappy 2.0 60-footer. My last run that night netted me a bad-*** 1.80 60-footer, but my clutch fork broke shifting into 2nd gear so I guess a 12.99 or 13.0 will have to wait.

As you can see I auto-X the car and really THAT is what I like more than drag, so I spent more money on the handling department than the drag department.

 

Put the three wheelin' on the RR/ autox "pissin' dog" thread.
Still looks good. Now get rid of the dash...

 

nice, clean, speechless

 

car is sik! so much hard work must have been put into that. mad props.

 

So here some tech directly related to the 1992-1995 Civic in terms of my set-up:

B18C5 engine wiring into a 1992-1995 Civic:

IMO the USDM ITR swap is easier to swap in. I've done this swap 3 times already and it is 100% easy especially if you run a re-chipped P28 and even more so if you have a 1992 Civic or any 1992-1995 Si, VX, or EX with VTEC wires.

Here's what you'd need too do if you have a USDM ITR swap:

KEEP the ITR engine harness. Regardless of what others say the plugs all plug right in. This way you get to keep the newer ITR distributor and injectors, and there is no need to rewire anything. Again this is from experience, not hearsay.

You'll have a few extra plugs left over on the ITR harness because the ITR has a few extras that our Civics don't have, like ABS, etc. You vcan just hide the extra plugs.

Now there's a few different ways to get an ECU to work, and I'll list them from easiest to hardest:

1. Re-chipped P28. This will simply plug in. No need to wire up for a knock sensor because the P28 doesn't read for one. Better fuel, timing, VTEC x-over, and rev limiter = more power. OBD1 so no need at all to run any sort of extra sensors.

2. Kenji OBD2 jumper harness and JDM P73 ECU. I ran this on my motor for a while before the kenji ECU. You'll have to wire up a knock sensor wire and that's about it. Drawbacks are that this ECU has a 113-115 speed limiter and it doesn't make the power that the kenji-spec P28 does. ThisECU has OBD2 type plugs but IT RUNS AN OBD1 PROGRAM AND IT IS ONLY OBD2 IN PLUGS!!! I ran this ECU with no extra o2 sensor, no crank fluctuation bullshit, etc.

3. Jumper harness with USDM P73 ECU. Why? I wouldn't do this unless I was in Cali and it was necessary for smog bullshit. You'd have to wire up all the extra OBD2 bullshit and the ECU sucks compared to a re-chipped P28.

So that's for the USDM motors, but what about the JDM ITR swaps?

As Apexi-ITR has said the JDM harness can be used. It requires some stretching but it will work. If you must get the factory look then get any OBD2 type engine harness from any USDM B18C1 or B18C5 and then it will plug right in just like I said the USDM swap does.

As far as ECU stuff goes, really a P28 is the better choice again but you will need to add a VTEC oil pressure switch onto the JDM ITR motor because it doesn't have one and the P28 looks for one. Just pull an oil pressure switch from another VTEC motor - didn't you use a SOHC one Apexi-ITR?

Or you can run the jumper harness and O.E JDM P73 ECU. This will save you from having to add the oil pressure switch, but you'll have to add a knock sensor and this ECU still has the shitty speed limiter.

USDM ECU? But why?

That's about all I can think of right now. I run the kenji-spec P28 ECU in my 1992 CX hatchback and with this method and keeping the ITR engine harness I did not have to add one single wire at all! It was absolutely 100% plug and play!

So what about the brakes set-up I have? How does one go about putting GS-R 4-wheel discs on his or her 1992-1995 Civic?

I purchased all 4 corners of suspension from a 1998 Integra GS-R. This was all of the lower control arms, all 4 spindles, rear trailing arms with e-brake cables, and of course all four corners of the brakes. Everything was still bolted together when it arived and there is no need to take any of it apart unless you will be replacing the rotors (I recommend this) and brake pads. I also got the rear and front swaybars too, but I only used the rear one.

The entire rear trailing arms bolt right up from the Integra to the Civic. Hook up the e-brake cables and you're set in the rear.

Up front the entire spindles again will bolt right up from the Integra to the Civic.

So here's the ever-popular question about the brakes:

Which master cylinder, booster, and prop valve am I running?

I am running an Integra RS master cylinder and booster. Why the RS? The RS is the only 1994-up Integra WITHOUT ABS, so there was not a single bit of line bending or reflaring to get it in. I used the RS booster as well, but you could use an LS one if you cannot find the RS one.

I recommend buying a new M/C from Acura. They're listed at like $160.00 but you can get a better deal for sure - I'll be back with the part number.

There is only one potential problem with the RS m/c with an LS/GS-R booster, and it is easy to find and fix. Fit up the RS m/c to your booster and if it fits very flush very easily then you're fine. If you have to kind of push on it to fit it flush and it feels "spring loaded" then you must trim 3/4 of an inch off of the booster rod on the engine bay side. It's very easy to do.

I bolted in an Integra GS-R prop valve too, but I don't know what year it was. It had the exact same line configuration as the stock Civic one, but the only difference is that on the 1992-1993 Civics the bracket is flatter than the 1994-up Civic and Integra brackets - I simply flattened the GS-R one out and it bolted up.

This is 100% line bending and flaring free - 100% direct bolt-up.

If you have any questions about the set-up I run, then feel free to ask here. The pics are pretty and all, but I hope that some more good tech info comes from this thread too in regards to my particular set-up and why I chose some of the things that I did.

Thanks for looking y0!

 

 

Oh and the most popluar questions would have to be about the part numbers for the radio block-off and the antenna block-off - I'll look those up on Monday when I get to work.

 

I love it...overall, how much time and money do you have into it?

 

 

very very sweet!

 

wow there are a lot of silver hatches around, and everyone i see makes me want one more and more!! NICE ride dood!

 

wait wait, tom, u mean people should actually put all those bling bling parts to use? pfff yea right.

 

is it a daily driver too? how loud is that from the inside? my car is loud driving on the freeway going 80, i couldnt imagine it w/o the interior to block sound out

 

Dude, your car is the ****.

There is nothing bad about it at all.

 

Really?

The very reason I wanted Vogue Silver Metallic is because there aren't very many at all here in my area. We never got the VSM 1992-1995 hatches like other countries (like Japan) did.

Now there are a good number of 1996-up Civics in VSM because it was an optional color in those years.

Well, the build-up took me about 6 months mainly due to money issues in terms of parts and whatnot - I did not want to "settle" for anything less than all new exterior stuff, and I considered it an absolute must to have the car color changed so that took forever since it was like December when I bought the car and stripping it in my garage at home was very, very cold.

From the time I bought the car to its completion was like 6 months or so. The last months were from wating on money to buy various parts that I would not drive the car without - I'm stubborn.

Money? I've added it all up before but it's something like a little over $13,000.00 or so, but you must think about the fact that this excludes labor costs. Since all of the labor was by myself with the help of friends, the costs to pay someone to completely tear a car down and rebuild it would be hellafied expensive.

That $13,000.00 includes the car itself and everything listed in the specs I provided above.

Yeah man I drive the car hard. As fundage and time allow I want to take the car to a full track day at VIR or Road Atlanta, but auto-x is fun as **** too.

It's actually not too loud inside when just cruising, but when VTEC is blasting at 8000rpm+ you cannot hear the guy/girl yelling next to you. I love it the way it is, but one day I hope to have 100% brand new O.E Honda interior in it.

Oh yeah I also have another hybrid hatch - actually my fiancee' drives it.

It's the black 1992 Si hatch with the 1999 B16A2 in it:



I need some better pics of that car too. That one is pretty shitty.

 

i really like your car but i dont like the exhaust.
just my .02$

good job on the color change.

 

yo dude why did you paint your valve cover? looks better red. Other then that one of the nicest cars ive seen

 

nice

 

Always loved that car

 

simply dope

 

 

Awesome hatch! I love the fact that this car can do both drag and auto-x.

 

WOW

 

Still looks awesome

 

I still have the red valvecover. I painted a B16A v.c in case I ever wanted the tizzite red v.c on again.

I like the O.D Green one better.